Is my lazy way to get AC power in the trailer a problem?

[Felix_Esq]

I am relatively new to electricity. Physics classes in college did not prepare me for figuring out electrical systems 25 years later. Nevertheless, I have a DC system all figured out.

My question is related to AC systems. I have an inverter from a different project, which I am thinking of installing. I wanted to be sure AC was available both inside the trailer, and in the galley. I have thought of two ways to do this:

So everyone's on the same page, my battery is in the tongue box, and I run two 6 gauge cables from the battery, through a master kill switch, then out of the tongue box into an electrical box inside a cabinet at the head of the sleeping area. The electrical box has a fuse panel, a negative/ground bus bar, a switch panel for lights and accessories, and all the wiring to sort that out.

Idea Number 1:

I first thought of connecting 6 gauge wires from the electrical box at the front of the trailer, running those cables through the roof structure alongside the other DC wires (14 gauge) to the galley. I would install the inverter in the galley, and then install plug strips or AC outlets both at the foot of the sleeping area inside, and in the galley, thus getting AC power inside and outside. One problem: 6 AWG cables get expensive pretty fast. Nevertheless, I have a hunch this is the "right way" to do this, though more expensive.

Idea Number 2:

Then I thought of another way. What if I connected the inverter to the main 6 AWG cables in the electrical box at the front of the trailer. The inverter has two outlets built-in. I would connect a plug strip from one of those outlets to distribute power inside the trailer at the front. I would then plug a heavy-duty extension cord into the second inverter outlet, and run that through the roof structure back to the galley, where I would install another plug strip plugged into the extension cord.

What gives me pause is building an extension cord into the structure of my trailer. Don't know why, but this causes my hands to get a little clammy.

My question: being an electricity neophyte, and further being terrified of the ability to kill myself and my sweetie by a mis-installation of electrical power, multiple ways, is this second plan a bad idea?

Any advice is appreciated.

[saltydawg]

Run the cord, or if it makes you feel better buy some high quality 14 gauge 3 conductor wire ( or 12 gauge if extra worried ) and run that. 14 gauge is good for 1800 watts, how big is your inverter.

[working on it]

* I use both 110vac and 12vdc systems in my 4x8. I kept the systems as simple and separate as I could, only converging at one point: the converted key box I use for my 12vdc control switch, fuses, and inverter & on-board battery charger, inside the cabin, over my head on the back wall. At any time, I can get inside the box to swich 12v on-off, replace a blown fuse, connect the inverter inline to power inside the cabin 110v lights & accessories, and even hook-up the 15amp battery charger, to give the battery a larger boost (although it has a dedicated 1.5ammp maintainer in use). Both the inverter and 15amp charger can be removed to use on my to vehicle if needed.

* I used split-loom tubing to cover and obscure the single 14gauge extension cord I use inside the cabin for 110v, and the single multi-wire cable (18 gauge inside) carrying the five 12v circuits; it is meant for quick access and/or repair (my uninsulated trailer has no place to hide the wiring above the deck). Two heavy-amperage switches and fuses handle the 12v curret (4ga cable feeds from the battery in the tongue box, to the 125ampmaster cut-off inside the galley, then via 10ga to a 50amp on-off switch on the "key" box control panel. Never had a 12v problem in 9 years.

* For the simple 110vac supply, I use a 12ga extension cord (from the park-power pole) to pass-thru a waterproof cover into the galley, where it plugs into a GFCI. Then, it feeds into a resettable surge protector, then into the cabin-feed-point receptacle (which can also be supplied by the on-board 2500watt generator, offgrid). Once again thru a GFCI with a three-way splitter, to supply my 5k btu air-conditioner, main air circulating fan, and two sets of a/c powered LED lights (there's also two sets of 12v LED lights, permanently powered-up). There's also several more GFCI outlets, inside and outside, that protect my external lighting and cooking circuits. It always rains when I go camping. Better safe than sorry!

converted key box for 12vac, generator for offgrid, details.jpg (299.87 KiB) Viewed 1191 times

surge protector used in lieu of a circuit breaker for my 110vac power supply

5100-GP.jpg (31.85 KiB) Viewed 1191 times

[lfhoward]

You’ll lose a lot of voltage running DC to an inverter 10 feet from your battery, even with 6 gauge. Unless it’s a very small inverter. AC will be much more efficient at a distance. I vote to put the inverter near the battery. You could run a heavy duty extension cord to the galley without issue. Clamp it down so it can’t wiggle loose.

[tony.latham]

Is your battery large enough to run an air conditioner? It takes a lotta wattage and it's generally just done from shore power or a generator...?



Tony

PS. oooops. i thought you were talking about air conditioning.

[dmdc411]

I ran 120vac shore power with 3 outlets. 2 I interior, 1 above galley area, and one(gfci) below the galley. Then for dc I use a desktop computer power supply for powering all led lighting, and fantastic fan. Ps output is rated 14amps. My max consumption, worse case senerio is 7.5 amps. Shore power enters in the rear galley along with the power supply and center all in the galley. Cheap to construct and maintain.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

[Felix_Esq]

Thank you all for the fantastic ideas.

So I am going with putting the inverter (750W) inside the electrical panel with the fuse panel and main switches. I will run the three-strand 14 AWG extension cord from there through the ceiling (well anchored) to the galley. I will have a GFI outlet back in the galley and a plug strip, just for extra safety.

Thank you all again! Your help is invaluable.

-Felix

[timhill28]

You’ll lose a lot of voltage running DC to an inverter 10 feet from your battery, even with 6 gauge. Unless it’s a very small inverter. AC will be much more efficient at a distance. I vote to put the inverter near the battery. You could run a heavy duty extension cord to the galley without issue. Clamp it down so it can’t wiggle loose.

That must explain the inconsistent 12V DC on buddy's RV. He suspects the inverter is acting up and it's about 9 feet away from the battery. We'll just finish installing the suspension and kmc wheels on the truck this week before we start working on his RV.