Shore Power Plug

[Tom&Shelly]

Here's what I plan on bringing for shore power



The yellow thing is a 30 amp male-15/20 amp female adapter, similar to the one Tom showed above. That's just in case someone else (like a tent camper) is using the 20 amp outlet on the pedestal for a coffee maker, or something, or if the 20 amp outlet is out of service.

I've heard that RV pedestals have been known to be wired incorrectly, so I'll also carry the green outlet checker that lights LEDs warning if the line and neutral wires are crossed, or if the ground is open, or a few other problems. The red thing is a Harbor Fright non-contact power checker that should only light up when near the line, not the neutral or ground. It should also alarm if the trailer frame is energized for any reason.

If anything looks wrong, I won't connect. I trust my wiring, but not some RV camp's.

Tom

[DrewsBrews]

Personally I dont quite like the idea of permanent mounting those rather delicate 15A prongs. Instead, Im opting for a hatch that holds a lose end of an extension cord or other corded power strip. Such as one of these https://www.amazon.com/BRAND-CAMPER-TRAILER-MOTORHOME-POWER/dp/B017KWL4IM/ref=asc_df_B017KWL4IM/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312192374842&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14076362071483982151&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9015623&hvtargid=pla-571897174075&psc=1

This should give flexibility to upgrade or replace as needed. Though, it isn't sealed from the interior space. If that is important to you. They seems designed to reasonably keep out rain/drain out any that should get in.

[working on it]

* I use Taymac In-Use covers for both input power and output power cords. I use either 12gauge or 14gauge extension cords for input from park power pole, depending on length of cord needed. There's a power splitter hub, mounted on the inside galley wall, that feeds the 14gauge (extension cord) main power distribution network (thru GFCI's and a resettable surge protector...no other breakers or fuses needed). I can also use the in-use cover to feed external systems (usually a rope light), using GFCI's. The cover snaps shut to keep water out.

* It has worked so well that I chose a larger, two-gang in-use cover to water-proof four GFCI receptacles mounted on the rear outside wall, that I use for an electric skillet (my solution to open-flame cooking on windy days, or in burn-ban situations). This usually works, under cover of a canopy in light rain, but not-so-much in driving rain and high winds...I don't want to have to test the GFCI circuitry that way).

in-use covers for input and output cords, good for external GFCI receptacles too.jpg (148.83 KiB) Viewed 1001 times

[western traveler]

Look up above in the stickies for the super simple electric system.

Sent from my SM-A115AP using Tapatalk

I knew I saw somewhere in the Forum...

viewtopic.php?f=30&t=37732

[Capebuild]

I'd rather use a 20 amp power inlet set up, but found this 15 amp inlet (see attached). I can cut off one of the plugs and route it to an electrical box where I can hook up to a NOCO GENIUS10 charger.
Then I'd also have the other plug on the inlet if I ever needed an AC connection. Any thoughts about this kind of set up would be appreciated. Again, I'm not having any high draw appliances.
A Dometic fridge and anda Maxx air fan would probably be the most draw appliances used.

thanks!

John

[Juneaudave]

I know you have some thoughts on the wiring and all, but FWIW, it seems to me that as long as you are bringing in shore power, maybe you should give some thought to using a regular RV power center. They are pretty small, inexpensive, and give you the basics and lots of upgrade paths.

I run my shore power right into a WFCO WF-8735 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LF14Q4/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza that is located along the galley wall. It's been there 12 years and has run flawlessly. That gives me the charger for the battery, three AC circuits with breakers and six fused DC circuits. Even if your battery is dead, when your plugged in, the converter provides power to those circuits and charges the battery. And with the power center in place, you can go ahead and wire a couple 110 outlets even if you are unsure that you will never use them. I have a single outlet in the main cabin that I have use to plug in a small electric heater to take the chill off when it is really cold, and there is a single outlet in the galley that can be used if needed for a coffee pot or crock pot or something if you are at a gathering. It's also nice to prewire for an AC even if you think you might never want one. And nothing really changes in terms of adding a solar package or charging off the tow vehicle.

I keep my trailer plugged in most all the time all the time as the charger is a 3 stage unit. I use a Marinco 30 amp marine shore power outlet and carry an adapter for use with a 15 or 20 amp circuit.

[TimC]

I'd rather use a 20 amp power inlet set up, but found this 15 amp inlet (see attached). I can cut off one of the plugs and route it to an electrical box where I can hook up to a NOCO GENIUS10 charger.
Then I'd also have the other plug on the inlet if I ever needed an AC connection. Any thoughts about this kind of set up would be appreciated. Again, I'm not having any high draw appliances.
A Dometic fridge and anda Maxx air fan would probably be the most draw appliances used.

thanks!

John

That looks like a good option. NOCO makes some quality chargers and accessories. It doesn't appear to be fused for 15amp. The 20amp GFCI on a park's pedestal is a little high to protect that wiring but would work since you are looking at only a short run of wire.

Will you be running the fridge on 120v when in a park? You could still run the fridge on 12v and just use a battery charger to keep the battery topped off. Switching from 12v to 120v and back might become a pain.

[Sparksalot]

I'd rather use a 20 amp power inlet set up, but found this 15 amp inlet (see attached). I can cut off one of the plugs and route it to an electrical box where I can hook up to a NOCO GENIUS10 charger.
Then I'd also have the other plug on the inlet if I ever needed an AC connection. Any thoughts about this kind of set up would be appreciated. Again, I'm not having any high draw appliances.
A Dometic fridge and anda Maxx air fan would probably be the most draw appliances used.

thanks!

John

John, you’re thinking rather close to what I did. I wired my shore power connection straight to a small load center with 2 breakers in it. One serving an outlet below the counter for a microwave. The other went to a server rack power strip serving the cabin and galley. I kept the 120 and 12 volt systems totally separate for simplicity.

Load center and blue sea block.


Taken yesterday during an inverter test. You can see the microwave receptacle top left. Wiring at top right is for a simple solar charge controller. I laid this all out for simplicity and flexibility. At this point, I’ve been using Rose for 13 years.


Complicated 120. Terribly hard, don’t try this at home.