Shore Power Plug

[Capebuild]

Hello... I've got no experience with using "shore power" and I'm trying to pick a plug. I'm not sure whether to get a male plug or female plug.... I need a bit of help.
Also... I'd imagine I'll need some kind of "extension" cord set up that goes from the plug on my trailer to the service box at the camp site. Not sure if that is a cord with
2 male ends, female and male end ...or some combination.

Thanks for any help and clarification.

John

[Sparksalot]

You’re going to end up with a regular extension cord, probably 25ft. The ends on it will be 15amp type, that you can plug into a 15 or 20 amp shore outlet on the pedestal.

The outlet on your tear will be a male type. You can probably find them in the boat section of a decent sporting goods store.

Just installed on Rose during construction.


And 7.5 minutes ago.

[TimC]

+1 on sparks inlet. Mine is a Marinco model. Male. Female end of 15a ext cord plugs in.

Tim

[troubleScottie]

The power post is always female connectors. So you need male connectors at the power post.

So think simple power cord. Entry into your TD is a male connector. If you are going to a distribution box, the cable is open wires.

If you are being very simple, you might have a standard power strip in your TD to plug into. You could just have a door/covered opening eg electrical door https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZ1YLFH/?c ... _lig_dp_it or round electrical cable hatch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JDTNN3S/?c ... _lig_dp_it that that cord is exposed to an external extension cord.

The other things to consider are: the size of the extension cable ( make it as heavy duty as you can ) and surge guard. Shore power varies quite a bit on quality and setup.

[Tom&Shelly]

What these guys say.

Remember, if you had power coming out of the male end, you could touch the blades and electrocute yourself. The system is set up so that can't (easily) happen.

Tom

[Tom&Shelly]

I'll need some kind of "extension" cord set up that goes from the plug on my trailer to the service box at the camp site. Not sure if that is a cord with
2 male ends...

Thanks for any help and clarification.

John

If you find one with two male ends, it was home-made and very dangerous! Imagine plugging in one end and then accidentally touching the blades on the other end!

Tom

[western traveler]

I saw this setup posted somewhere on the site and was considering using it for a simple power supply to the galley if in a campground with electrical service and liked the idea of added GFCI protection (using both links).
Thoughts?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009A ... 0DER&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B4 ... 9TE2&psc=1

[Capebuild]

Thank you for the help and suggestions.

I've read most power provided at sites it either 30 amp or 50 amp (with the majority being 30).

I was confused when the first couple of member's responses said use 15 or 20 amp inlet and cord. Why not a 30 amp cord to match the supply?
I'm missing something I think??

[QueticoBill]

I believe if they have a 30 or a 30 and a 50, they will also have a 20 amp. Google them - the post.

[Socal Tom]

Thank you for the help and suggestions.

I've read most power provided at sites it either 30 amp or 50 amp (with the majority being 30).

I was confused when the first couple of member's responses said use 15 or 20 amp inlet and cord. Why not a 30 amp cord to match the supply?
I'm missing something I think??

30amp plugs are different, you will want to carry some adapters if you go to RV parks frequently
like this RV Electrical Adapter 30 Amp Male to 15 a Female Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B8LLYRM/re ... RE0KHZYP07

you should be able to plug directly into a 20 amp plug.
Most RV parks will have 15 and 30 amp outlets for you to plug into, but now and then you get one that only has a 30 amp service.

edit- If your TD only needs 15 amps, then I'd recommend staying at the 15amp breaker. Better to have a 15 amp breaker protecting your stuff than a 30 amp breaker that won't blow if you have something go wrong


Tom

[western traveler]

If you plan to run a large air conditioner or an air conditioner and microwave at the same time you will probably want 30+amps.
I have found 20amp and a 30 amp adapter when needed sufficient..

[Capebuild]

Thank you. I don’t plan on air conditioning, microwave
or other high draw appliances, so maybe 15 or 20 amp will
work.

[QueticoBill]

Small ac may be as low as 5 amps, so no worry.

[TimC]

Thank you. I don’t plan on air conditioning, microwave
or other high draw appliances, so maybe 15 or 20 amp will
work.

RV parks offering electric will at least have a 20amp receptacle in the power pedestal that is protected in the pedestal with a GFCI breaker of 20amp. The 20a receptacle can accept 15a or 20a extension cords.

If you are not running appliances drawing over 15 or 20 amps all you need is a 120v, 15a or 20a extension cord plugged into the standard outlet on your camper (commonly referred to as an "inlet" in RV lingo). By standard outlet I mean just like you plug an extension cord into at your home or office. Make sure you use an extension cord of 14/3 gauge or better, 12/3 gauge. Ignoring cord length for our purposes a 14awg cord will be fine for up to 15amps. 12awg will be good for up to 20amps.

You can run a number of appliances, one at a time, in a teardrop with a 12 gauge extension cord plugged into the 20a receptacle on the power pedestal. A battery charger, coffee pot, blender, small toaster or toaster oven, etc. Almost anything you can run in your home kitchen. A microwave is a maybe if it is rated under 20 amp. Run ONLY one appliance at a time. So a small microwave that uses under 20amps is OK if you are not running any other appliance. A battery charger pulling 5 to 7 amps can be run with a low draw appliance. Just know the amperage draw of each appliance and make sure any you use together don't add up to more than 20 amp.

From the "inlet" through the camper make sure you size the wire to receptacles to handle the amperage you intend to draw. I would suggest using 12awg throughout your build going to all receptacles. If you drop down in gauge anywhere it should be accompanied with the appropriate fuse of breaker to protect that gauge wire.

The big box RVs use 30a or 50amp mostly because they want to run everything without having to think about all the above. It's a matter of convenience for the average Home on wheels RV enthusiast.

Tim

[Modstock]

Look up above in the stickies for the super simple electric system.

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