Step 3: Build the floor

[Mitheral]

Actually I'm constructing a variation of a KenSkill. I like the size/shape better than the BenRoy. Still in the planning and parts accumulation stage I hope to get started this winter.

[backwoodsman]

Do you need the treated 1x2's or is the regular untreated wood good since you are going to seal it with the black roof tar stuff?

Thanks,
Greg

[madjack]

Greg I wouldn't use treated, since it is not going to be in ground contact and will be sealed anyway...also most adhesives have a problem sticking to (new)treated wood unless they are specifically formulated for treated
madjack

[backwoodsman]

In joining the 2 peices of ply together.....Is half inch thick enough to put in those biscut things?
I bought the half inch burch ply & the 1"x2" strips, but I want to "join" the ply together somehow......suggestions?

Also, how much of the black bed liner tar do I need to seal the underside?
Is it sold by the gallon?
My floor is 9' x 5'

Thanks,

Greg

[madjack]

Greg, I would be a bit leary of using bisquits on 1/2". You could do a half lap joint, if you have a bisquit joiner you could use it as slot cutter and put in a spline (making sure the grain in the spline is not running straight up and down) or you could do a scarf joint(basically a 45% angle cut on both edges for better gluing surfaces) Regardless of type of joint if you could put it over a rib or use the 1x2 strips you should have no problems
A gallon of roofing tar will be more than enough to seal the bottom side...just be sure and wear them old overalls since that stuff can jump a pretty fair distance
madjack

[bledsoe3]

just be sure and wear them old overalls since that stuff can jump a pretty fair distance
madjack

And gloves!!!

[stjohn]

[quotAnd gloves!!!e][/quote]

And check the bottom of your shoes, that reminds me
item #684 on the honey do list "replace living room carpet"

[SteveH]

And respirator!

[backwoodsman]

Thanks for all the advice madjack, bledsoe3, stjohn & SteveH.

Greg, I would be a bit leary of using bisquits on 1/2". You could do a half lap joint, if you have a bisquit joiner you could use it as slot cutter and put in a spline (making sure the grain in the spline is not running straight up and down) or you could do a scarf joint(basically a 45% angle cut on both edges for better gluing surfaces) Regardless of type of joint if you could put it over a rib or use the 1x2 strips you should have no problems
A gallon of roofing tar will be more than enough to seal the bottom side...just be sure and wear them old overalls since that stuff can jump a pretty fair distance
madjack

Well, the lap joint & scarf joint are out (if I understand what you are talking about), I already cut the wood to length.

However, I did think ahead and will have a metal (trailer) rib & a wooden 1x2 under the joint....
So, is that all ya'll do? Is that good enough?
Maybe I'm trying to make it too hard. I guess the joint will be under the Vinyl Laminate Flooring and my matress.

Thanks for the help. You guys are GREAT!
Greg

[madjack]

Greg, that should be fine...just glue and srew it to the 1x2. A spline is about all that is left to you to use and that is rather hard to do on full sized sheets unless you have a slot cutter for a router(if you have a router) or a biscuit joiner which you can use as a slot cutter.
....and remember, the harder you make it, the more it will hurt if it slaps ya up side the head
madjack

[Vegabond9]

Ok, I've thought about this process so I can have it clear in my head before I start grinding on my trailer. The more I think about the chassis and the floor, the more cornfused I gets.

First of all my trailer is 60 wide. Not adaptable to 58, so I'm stuck with 60.

I suppose this means I have to put the walls down on top of the chassis and bolt through the wall into the floor assembly..... that would mean I would make the floor 58.5 wide, correct? (assuming .75 walls)

And if this is correct I have another issue. What about the 96" front and rear? Is the floor undersized up front and the rear? Or full 96"?

Hate to start anything thats irreversible until I'm fully cornfused and agitated. Much more better that way.

[madjack]

...well you could come over the side with your wall but then that requires 61.5" stock to cover it with...is that a problem? Yes it sure could be but can be done
96"s, well if your front profile is flat to the top radius and the hatch comes down to farthest point in the back that would be no problem(KIT/Benroy style) but if you have an under curve in the front or back 96" will be too long(Ken-Skill. cub/modernistic style).
Draw up your profile to scale and adjust accordingly...
madjack

[Vegabond9]

If I go 61.5 I should be alright except for the issue of Aluminum sheeting goods. I will probably find out later that I can get the stuff in 4/5/6 foot widths so there would be a lot of waste..... I doubt anybody seams the aluminum across the top.... not a good place for seams. Hmmmmm. More pondering to do. By the way I plan a Benroy so there would be no radius til the top.

[mikeschn]

Ok, I've thought about this process so I can have it clear in my head before I start grinding on my trailer. The more I think about the chassis and the floor, the more cornfused I gets.

First of all my trailer is 60 wide. Not adaptable to 58, so I'm stuck with 60.

You can build with a60" wide chassis also. And you got a choice; you can either build on top of your chassis at 60" wide, or you can cover your rails. and build at 61 - 1/2" wide. Pick the floor width that is more important to you...

And if this is correct I have another issue. What about the 96" front and rear? Is the floor undersized up front and the rear? Or full 96"?

I designed the generic benroy to have a full length chassis of 96".

Hate to start anything thats irreversible until I'm fully cornfused and agitated. Much more better that way.

The reason many teardrops are 4x8' is economy of materials. You can build a teardrop any length or any width you want. Just use the cutoffs for interior cabinet construction, etc...

Have fun!

Mike...

[madjack]

...Vega, Al generally come in 3 widths useful to TD builders...4',5', and the 8.5' width usually used of 18 wheeler trailers and 8 to 12' long...the 8.5 comes on a roll so you can get whatever length you want...a seam in the Al is no real problem and is done all the time...even the famous Camp-Inns have a seam in the top Al...2/3rds of a sheet of ply is 5'4"...the cutoff's are excellent for interior portions...so as Mike said, build it the way you want it, afterall it is yours...........
madjack