Repack bearings new Harbor Freight Trailer

[katrinad]

I'm assembling my new Harbor Freight trailer. It says to take apart the hub assembly, clean, and repack the bearings. The instructions say only to take out the washer, grease cover, and outer bearings. Then clean all of the above and the hub and regrease. The problem is the inner bearings and seal are still attached to the hub. Am I supposed to take these out and clean and repack? I can't get them off without damaging the seal i don't think.

Won't it cause problems if I only repack the outer assembly and attempt to clean and grease the hub without taking out these pieces?

[les45]

You definitely need to repack both bearings on a new HF trailer axle with a good quality grease. I've always used a large flat blade screwdriver to gently pry the seal out without causing any damage to the seal. Some people use a method involving the removal of the outer bearing and then reinstalling the castle nut and washer and pulling the hub out sharply until the inner bearing hits the washer and pops off with the seal. I don't subscribe to that method because of the potential to damage the inner bearing. Others have used a large piece of plastic pipe to push on the inner bearing. If you do a search in this section, you can find a lot of threads on this subject. Do your homework and then decide.

[bobhenry]

As an ex mechanic back in the day of repacking bearing with every front brake job I always removed the outer bearing and washer and reinstalled the castle nut and dragged the hub and tire off of the spindle removing the seal and inner bearing. The bearing is subjected to far less impact than hitting a pot hole during this removal. Bump it lightly and turn 30 or so degrees and bump again a third turn and the seal and bearing should pop out fully intact. Trying it pry out a metal clad seal will most definatly ruin it while the bearing applies almost equal pressure and I have never ruined a seal with the bump and turn method.

Opinions may vary

[les45]

Opinions may vary

Bob Henry, you are right about that. Lots of different opinions on almost any subject on this forum (but I've never damaged a seal using a screwdriver either). That's why I encourage folks (especially newcomers) to do a search and read all the opinions before they decide.

[KCStudly]

Just like the bearing, the seal is a precision piece of engineering. Most people don't know that the molded lip on the active part of the seal (the inner grease lip) actually is not round and flat. It has a wavy form to it so that as the hub rotates the area exposed to grease varies ever so slightly. This lubricates the seal and helps spread the area that the seal lip rides on, reducing wear. If the lip was truly round and flat the grease would quickly be wiped away and the narrow contact line would quickly wear a groove in the spindle.

Any dent or ding from, say from hammering in a seal, no matter how gently you tap, can potentially upset this geometry, warping the rubber skirt and changing the way the seal lip runs. We're talking thousands of inches tolerance. This is why it is always recommended to drive a new seal in using a flat mandrel, plate or over sized socket. Best way is to press them in.

The technique of using the outer washer to drive the inner bearing and push the seal out from the inside may seem to work fine, but there is no way to protect the delicate inner lip from being pinched, cut, or otherwise mutilated by the edges of the roller cage, etc. They're just not intended to be driven out from the inside without being replaced.

I'm not saying that it hasn't worked for you guys, in the past, I'm just saying that the trailer OEM is doing a disservice. They should be providing new seals with the trailers to be installed at the time of commissioning. The reason they install them in the first place is to keep crap out in the meantime. Why they don't do a better job of just cleaning and greasing the bearings and hubs the first time must certainly be a matter of money. Cheap is cheap.

My $.02, use new seals every time. Cheap insurance. It's hard enough to get them in true as it is, even using a press. Pretty amazing how well they preform given the abuse they usually see going in.

[katrinad]

Finding these seals is seeming to be impossible. Just called Harbor Freight and the seals are on backorder for a month (likely because they are coming from China). Orielly auto can't seem to find seals. I used SKF 27737 or size 30x52x10mm.

I need to have my trailer inspected Monday July 1st, with first trip on July 4th.

Any other options to find the seals?! I'm getting desparate. Willing to overnight but that means I still have to order it TODAY.

Should I attempt to get the seals off and just hope I don't damage them? Or just clean the outer bearings and hope it lasts the trip?
Ugh don't know what's the best option.

This is such a stupid thing. The trailer is NEW there is no reason I should have to buy new parts just to put it together. Why do they do this?

[les45]

If you use either one of the methods that bobhenry and I described above then you should not damage a new seal. Go ahead and repack both sides and reinstall the same seal. Check it from time to time in the future to see if any grease is getting out indicating damage to the seal. I really doubt that you will see any damage. Like I said above, I have used the flat blade screwdriver method numerous times on several HF and NT trailers and I'm still running the original seals on some that are ten years old. If you want a spare seal, either backorder from HF or go to an industrial bearing company and show them what you are trying to replace. They can also provide replacement bearings and races.

[KCStudly]

What he said ^^^^. If you get good results and don't have grease spewing out over time, all is good.

Hell, you could probably leave the seals out altogether (not recommended) and the bearings would surely survive the trip, if not longer, maybe.

I just wanted to voice my opinion that it is normal "good mechanic's practice" to replace the seals at each service. Not worth the risk of failure from buggering up the "used" seals.

The OEM practice of assembling the bearings and seal and then instructing the purchaser to disassemble, clean and reassemble is bunk, agreed.

[Mary C]

some how I missed this thread but I will add in what I did, I could not get the rear seals out on my HF trailer wheel. I could not Bump (62 years old and have had two broken wrist) or felt I could get them out with out tearing up the seal. So I placed the rim over a big clean Oil catcher, got a big syringe filled it over and over with paint thinner and kept soaking the inner bearings with it. I would take my finger and role the bearings while washing it down with the thinner. I did this probably 25 times on each wheel then using a soft cloth I dried them a little then spun them again to checking for the shipping goo. feeling none I then used two fingers loaded with grease to pack and pack and pack and pack and pack. I felt that I did as best as I could. So far I have felt no heat or had any problem.

Mary C.

[MtnDeb]

Hi Everyone,

I have 2 questions about grease seals. (1) Where do you find replacement seals for HF trailers and (2) is there some type of seal puller to remove the seals on HF trailer?

Thanks.... MtnDeb

[absolutsnwbrdr]

Bearings and seals for a HF 1720lb 4x8 kit.....

30205 Taper Roller Bearing 25x52x16.25... http://www.amazon.com/30205-Taper-Wheel ... B002BBO4MG

Double Lip Grease Seal - 1.17" I.D. - 2.05" O.D. - Markings: 30-52-10 - Fits Bearing: 30205.... http://www.amazon.com/ESI-Bearings-30-5 ... m_indust_2

Just make sure the numbers on your grease seal and bearings match these before you order. No guarantee, but this is what every HF trailer I've seen has used.



And here's a seal puller... http://www.sears.com/lisle-seal-puller/p-00947645000P

Don't ask me how to use it. I use Bob's method.

[MtnDeb]

Thanks Absolute! I have searched the Internet hi and low, was truly lost.

MtnDeb