Incomprehension of my HF trailer

[yesdog]

Looking aft2.jpg (150.86 KiB) Viewed 1243 times

After several months of inactivity in the camper department, I have once again dived into the unknown. I'm ready to build, but I have no idea what I am doing. I have read lots of threads with tons of good info and PICTURES… I love pictures… but I remain flummoxed about where and how to start. Complete novice here. Anything I say in the post that is correct was learned online on this site.

The photo above is my trailer that I purchased from a 15y.o. boy who put it together using all the wrong hardware and tools. Anyway, it's mine now and I intend to use it. It is a 4'x8' HF folding trailer that has been welded so it doesn't fold. I put 13" wheels on it.

I intend to build a semi-standy that is 5'x8'. The axle is below the springs.

Please refer to the amidship photo. The axle is currently situated exactly 1/2 the distance between forward and aft of the trailer. The back of the wheel lies about 37.5" from the rear.

FIRST QUESTION: Should the axle be moved back?

I might mention that my build is not exactly a tear drop shape, but rather a modified shed roof style with the tongue end (forward) being about 4.5' tall and the after end (back where the door will be) will be about 5.5' tall. All built ins will be as close to center of gravity as possible, with perhaps a little more weight on the rear end.

SECOND QUESTION:
I have see many examples of the trailer cross bars being moved around or eliminated entirely. The most common I have seen is removing the cross bar that is directly or almost directly over the axle. Is there a reason for that? Should I remove the cross bar that is pictured just to the right of the axle in the photo?

THIRD QUESTION:
Please see the photo of the close of the wheel and the bracket above the wheel. What is that bracket? Do I need that? Can I remove it without the trailer coming apart at the seams (as I am about to do)?

I want to post a build page, but I think I should at the very least buy some wood first! Thanks to everyone on this site and hope to get some answers to my boneheaded questions.

Joy (building Lodestar… potential camper name)

[Jdhiker]

Isn't that bracket for when it folds? The folding ability you said has been welded so it won't fold so that bracket I would think can be removed. I would make a side plate to replace it...just maybe a few inches wide. But not to protrude above the frame?

[48Rob]

Joy,

#1 Almost always, yes.
Balance is the key, having the right amount of weight in front of the axle, and behind is important.
Your design and weight distribution plan will determine the best place for the axle. In almost all builds/designs, square in the middle creates a trailer that is unstable and prone to sway/instability.

#2 I've never owned a similar trailer so have no experience with the crossmember, but it appears that because it is (was) a folding trailer, there is a support on either side of the hinge. Once the ability to fold is removed, there simply is no need for the extra weight. That said, it isn't hurting anything unless you are looking for places to remove weight.

#3 It is the hinge that allows the trailer to fold.
Ask the person who welded the trailer, hopefully not the one who put it together...

I am unable to enlarge the picture to get a close up view, but it does not appear that anything has been done at the joint where it folds to prevent folding, or to reinforce that area.
In other words, that hinge is holding the two halves together, if you remove it, you must somehow fasten the two halves together.

Rob

[bobhenry]

Three rules

15% tongue weight

15% of total trailer weight on the ball no teter todder zero balance so a 1400 pound trailer should have 210 pounds on the ball. If this is too much for a small towing vehicle build lighter don't try and set the table like we did on the teeter todder you will have a nasty towing monster.

60 front 40 rear ( 65 35 is better )

IE a 10 foot trailer 120" has 60% of length forward of the axle centerline .6x120= 72 inches forward and the balance (48" to the rear of centerline.

reinforce that rubbery HF stock tongue

Look in the search using "tongue" or "hf tongue" and see what others have done.

Weld the axle trolly to the frame as seen with the yellow marked edits I made to your pic this will take the strain off of the hinge itsself and greatly stiffen the frame.



My 75.00 e bay find hf trailer was crushed under a bolder being loaded on the trailer. The frame was trashed so I used the axle dolly and a some dock handrailing as the new frame. Here is the weld in the same place I am suggesting.....



Just my two cents worth.

[Dale M.]

I blew up picture to 1024 X 768 and I personally do not see where its welded, at least not welded where I would expect it to be....

Axle to brace position2.jpg (136.91 KiB) Viewed 1126 times

My concept as where it should be welded should be pretty much like "edits" on picture BobHenery did... Also on insides where back of frame sits on rails where the springs are mounted...

Dale

[bobhenry]

I think Dale is talking about back stitching on the inside as well ( which I did on mine )

Am I right Dale ?

[yesdog]

Many thanks to everyone who replied to my questions! I guess it's time to take the trailer to the metal shop and have some welding and modifications made, according to the good information offered here. I do plan to remove the centermost support nearest to the axle for weight-saving. Later today/tonight I will scan and post my plan for the floor frame (since I am building an over the wheels trailer) for review and input.

THANKS EVERYONE!!

Joy, building Lodestar

[Dale M.]

I think Dale is talking about back stitching on the inside as well ( which I did on mine )

Am I right Dale ?

Yeah!.... Blown up pic sorta-somewhat shows "something "(maybe trick of light) but if there is a bead on inside bottom, its not sufficient to give real strength...

Dale