Camber question (?)

[les45]

Sometimes when I look at the 13" tires on my NT 5X8, they look like they are in at the top (negative camber). I recently measured them with a plumb line and they are in fact slightly in at the top. Measuring from the top of the wheel to the bottom of the wheel (approximately 14") the left side is 1/8" in at the top and the right side is 1/16" in at the top. The NT axle is straight and not factory bent to provide camber. I assume that this arrangement should provide zero camber. Has anyone else looked into trailer tire camber and are these numbers within normal tolerances?

[H.A.]

.

[MtnDon]

I have been told that it is not a big deal for the camber to be off a bit. The reasoning being that most of us will have our trailer tires age out rather than wear out.

[eamarquardt]

Generally speaking for wheel alignment about an 1/8" of toe in and a bit of positive camber (top of wheel outside the bottom of the wheel) is desirable. The only way to adjust these two parameters is to bend the axle. I'm sure any good frame shop could do the job. As shown in the article noted below the adjustments are carried out with the trailer axles supporting their normal load. I once designed and had my crew build a hydraulic press to straighten paper rewinding machine mandrels. We used dial indicators to guide our efforts and could easily and repeatably bend the mandrels as required. The same process, apparently, is used to align trailer axles:

http://www.thisoldcampsite.com/This_old ... gnmen.html

The whole point of the "drill" is to have the trailer track properly and to achieve reasonable tire life. If your trailer is tracking well and your tires are wearing reasonably well I wouldn't worry. If you have problems towing or with tire wear, you have a problem. There are two parts to alignment. First is making sure the axle is perpendicular to the axis of your trailer. To do this you just need to measure from the coupler to the spring hangers and make sure each side is the same (remove old hangers and weld on new ones to fix problems) and then make sure the axle is mounted the same distance back on each side. Then you can adjust the toe in and camber, if required, by bending the axle.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,

Gus

[eamarquardt]

Generally speaking for wheel alignment about an 1/8" of toe in and a bit of positive camber (top of wheel outside the bottom of the wheel) is desirable. The only way to adjust these two parameters is to bend the axle. I'm sure any good frame shop could do the job. As shown in the article noted below the adjustments are carried out with the trailer axles supporting their normal load. I once designed and had my crew build a hydraulic press to straighten paper rewinding machine mandrels. We used dial indicators to guide our efforts and could easily and repeatably bend the mandrels as required. The same process, apparently, is used to align trailer axles:

http://www.thisoldcampsite.com/This_old ... gnmen.html

The whole point of the "drill" is to have the trailer track properly and to achieve reasonable tire life. If your trailer is tracking well and your tires are wearing reasonably well I wouldn't worry. If you have problems towing or with tire wear, you have a problem. There are two parts to alignment. First is making sure the axle is perpendicular to the axis of your trailer. To do this you just need to measure from the coupler to the spring hangers and make sure each side is the same (remove old hangers and weld on new ones to fix problems) and then make sure the axle is mounted the same distance back on each side. Then you can adjust the toe in and camber, if required, by bending the axle.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,

Gus