by KCStudly » Fri Jan 31, 2014 3:30 pm
In the technical world the phrase is, "good machinist practice".
If you want to be particular, there are standard torque tables that you can use to look up a recommended torque value (using size of thread, type of lube, material for bolt and nut, thread pitch and class, etc.), but .... just make the u-bolts tight without trying to twist them off like a g-o-rilla and you will be fine. And it is never a bad idea to give everything a once over after being in service for a little while.
Ever notice how box wrenches get longer as they go up in size? There is a corollary between the strength of an average man and the length of a given size wrench.
On wheel bearings, some sources specify using a modest torque to make sure that the bearings are seated, then backing off and using a rather light toque to pre-stress the bearings (Timken taper bearings actually call for pre-stress, but they won't specify it for a given bearing because they want to engineer it to the application). However, I am with Zach, just snug them up a bit while turning the hub until you feel it start to drag a little (don't lock it up!) then, if needed back off to get the pin in. The hub should turn freely with no real drag (although there may be some due to the seal and grease), but you should not be able to perceive any up down or side to side "wink".
KC
My Build:
The Poet Creek Express Hybrid Foamie
Poet Creek Or Bust
Engineering the TLAR way - "That Looks About Right"
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