Stretching the HF trailer frame

[DGoodwin]

Putting together HF trailer frame to accommodate 60" X 114" td using nobodies build as a guide (the more I read his posts the more I love that old codgers way of attacking a problem ). Sliding in the mid supports into the frame noticed problems, rails too long and a whole lot of drilling new holes. Jseyfert3 documents well how to adjust to this by cutting the cross supports down and drilling a lot of new holes (going to need a bigger boat --- drill and bits). Setting up frame and putting in the side rails got to thinking why not just stretch the frame -- pulling the two boxes 9.5 " out a few of the holes line up -- a little less drilling. This will also allow framing to extend only ~ 6 in off front and back of frame. Big question: Will this compromise integrity of frame? Are the cross members strong enough? What if I just buy tube metal to fit in the channel then use the cross member where they are intended? Anybody have thoughts on this idea?

[bobhenry]

You are towing a light weight box filled with air ( and some camping goodies) what is the big deal !

Make the body so it will cantilever out over the wood furred frame. There is no real need to fuss and fret over the frame it is simply something to bolt the wheels to and to rest the body on.

My barn floats in front a solid 2 foot without a care in the world. It has been 3 years now and untold camping trips and yet it survives.

[jonw]

What, nobody sent you out looking for a frame stretcher???

[Nobody]

Not sure that I understand exactly the problem you're having fitting the cross members into the side rails. If you're using a standard 1720# (1800# ??) trailer, you should have total of 5 cross member (including the 'double' in the center, which is actually 2 cross members) 2 feet apart. Taking the 'double' out & using the 2 pieces, 1 on each side, they should fit right into the side rails between the 2nd & 4th cross members. Best I remember I only had to drill holes at one end of the cross member, plus holes to fit the axle/spring brackets when I moved the axle rearward. Think there's a pic or two in my album of the side rails with the cross members clamped in place for drilling. It was a very easy modification with NO 'cutting' involved. Unless you're using a different trailer or making some other modification, I'm puzzled by the difficulty you're having...

[DGoodwin]

Nobody, Do not know if the standard 1720# frame has changed. When I put the cross members into the side rail it causes the trailer to stretch just over 1" ( cross members 48" vrs gap in side rails 47"). Jseyfert3 just cut the cross members down and fit them in there drilling all new holes. As mentioned, when I set things up, I got to thinking what if I just fit the cross members in the side rails and bolted it together with a 9 1/2 " gap between the two box frames. Looked very closely at your pics and how the butt joint fit right together on your build, To get mine to fit like that, I would have to cut the cross members down ~ 1" like Jseyfert3 did.

Nobody also looked closely to see how you handled the tire to frame distance. Can not find pic of the 1" block of tool steel you added as spacers between axle and spring. Think I understand what you did . Any other way to add the extra inch of clearance, if you were to do it again?

Bob, you seem to be suggesting, not to worry about the wood frame hanging over. Not really worried about that, I have seen your build and others am I am convinced your right that is no biggy. Do you think if I stretch the frame using the side rails that it could create an issue?, or are you just saying its not necessary? Again a big for all the sage advice.

[Nobody]

Nobody, Do not know if the standard 1720# frame has changed. When I put the cross members into the side rail it causes the trailer to stretch just over 1" ( cross members 48" vrs gap in side rails 47"). Jseyfert3 just cut the cross members down and fit them in there drilling all new holes. As mentioned, when I set things up, I got to thinking what if I just fit the cross members in the side rails and bolted it together with a 9 1/2 " gap between the two box frames. Looked very closely at your pics and how the butt joint fit right together on your build, To get mine to fit like that, I would have to cut the cross members down ~ 1" like Jseyfert3 did.

Nobody also looked closely to see how you handled the tire to frame distance. Can not find pic of the 1" block of tool steel you added as spacers between axle and spring. Think I understand what you did . Any other way to add the extra inch of clearance, if you were to do it again?

Bob, you seem to be suggesting, not to worry about the wood frame hanging over. Not really worried about that, I have seen your build and others am I am convinced your right that is no biggy. Do you think if I stretch the frame using the side rails that it could create an issue?, or are you just saying its not necessary? Again a big for all the sage advice.

Apparently the trailer chassis must have changed a bit since I didn't have to cut the cross members. I personally would be hesitant to have a 9 1/2" gap in the factory side rails, even with the steel cross members as gussets. I'd rather cut the cross members an inch & cantilever the cabin a little more at each end. I think your frame would probably be plenty strong with the 'gap' but I'd prefer having the original rails full length. That's just me...

On the tire clearance dimension, I'd build the wheel wells in my floor another inch higher. I'd thought I was building them with plenty of clearance but I guess I didn't calculate the additional weight of galley, mattress, cargo, etc. After a couple of years, while doing my regular inspection of the entire trailer, I noticed that there were a couple of marks where the tire treads had apparently made momentary contact with the top of the wheel well, probably on a really rough road or hitting bad spots in the road. It wasn't noticeable & didn't worry me much but I don't like any kind of contact between surfaces that are supposed to remain separate so I added the steel spacer (see pic below). As I mentioned above, if I were doing it over I'd just add an inch to the height of the wheel well. There's enough room in the cabin that I don't believe another inch on the wheel well protrusion would cause any problem. With 5 1/2" of foam/memory foam mattress we don't notice the wheel wells while sleeping on our near queen size bed. Additionally, when I added the 'spacer' I had to replace the factory 'U' bolts, which I wasn't loath to do as I never really trusted the 'flimsy' looking 1/4" or maybe 5/16" (or metric equivalent ??) factory parts. The new longer, 'American Made' 3/8" bolts give me a lot more confidence .

[DGoodwin]

Harvey, Thanks for the pic. Much easier to visualize. Looks like good solution to problem. Keeping frame pieces butted together and cutting the cross members probably the best bet. Thanks

Dan

[Sparksalot]

I stretched my Red Trailers frame 19 inches to achieve the platform I wanted for my own 5x10 build. I did this with almost no drilling, especially in the frame rails themselves. Look in the early pages of my build thread for details.