Chassis Construction

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Chassis Construction

Postby bharding » Sat Jul 02, 2022 12:16 pm

Hello All,

I am just beginning the layout and build of my chassis for a 5x10 TD. I am using this forum, as well as Steve's shopman book and Tony's book. I want to put a foot well into my chassis because I would like to build a folding bed/couch like the type that is in a VistaBule. I don't want to jeopardize the integrity of the chassis however. I was told by a friend, that welds and will help me with the chassis, that the triangle/hitch part of the frame should always be welded under the main/rectangular part of the chassis for strength.

Using Tony's plan for the chassis would not allow me to have the 6" to 8" deep foot well. In Tony's book these "triangle" pieces go back to about 30" from the front of the main (rectangle) part of the frame. Steve has an example of a chassis that I like on page 15 for his lil'diner that has a large foot well. What I would like to know is what is the minimum distance that the hitch part of the frame (the triangle) should go under the main body (rectangle) of the chassis. There is no measurement in Steve's book but it looks like he has a cross-member somewhere about 15" to 20" in from the front of the main part of the frame.

Other information about the chassis:
I have a 12 gallon water tank that I am putting into another well in the back
I plan on using Tibren suspension

Thanks for your help.

Brian
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Re: Chassis Construction

Postby tony.latham » Sat Jul 02, 2022 2:09 pm

Using Tony's plan for the chassis would not allow me to have the 6" to 8" deep foot well.


You might take a look at Ralph's build here: https://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=73777

He used my book to build a fine teardrop with a drop floor.

:thumbsup:

Tony
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Re: Chassis Construction

Postby Capebuild » Sun Jul 03, 2022 7:30 am

I had welded my frame so the 2 inch members were all on the same plane. The middle tube was larger (2.5 inches) and allowed it be a sleeve for a removable hitch ( I had followed Halfdome Danny's design). This set up allowed for 2 foot wells (if I remember correctly they're about 8 inches deep). I also installed a bed that converts to a couch.

John
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Re: Chassis Construction

Postby bharding » Mon Jul 04, 2022 9:51 pm

Thank you John and Tony
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Re: Chassis Construction

Postby bharding » Sun Aug 07, 2022 11:33 pm

I am getting close to completing the frame for my teardrop and I am wondering what folks use for paint on their frames? Thanks in advance for recommendations.
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Re: Chassis Construction

Postby JasenC » Mon Aug 08, 2022 12:04 am

Powder coating is the best, epoxy paint, I used the pro grade Rustoleum to touch up around my welding and sprayed the entire frame for consistency.
I'll be done when I'm finished, if that's not fast enough, take a number.

Build Thread https://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=74269
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Re: Chassis Construction

Postby KCStudly » Mon Aug 08, 2022 10:43 am

2nd, epoxy paint.
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Re: Chassis Construction

Postby bharding » Tue Aug 09, 2022 9:58 am

Thanks JasonC and KCStudly
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Re: Chassis Construction

Postby Ragnorrk » Thu Aug 11, 2022 11:25 pm

bharding wrote:I am getting close to completing the frame for my teardrop and I am wondering what folks use for brown paint on their frames? Thanks in advance for recommendations.

Semi-gloss black rattle can with a painter's or rustoleum touch. No priming, no clear coat (ain't nobody got time for that), just Scotchbrite and acetone to clean. Although it's not the most lasting finish, semigloss conceals imperfections a little bit better than gloss while still looking sleek. After painting, there are always a few last-minute tabs that need to be applied, making the finish simple to brush up and touch up. As part of routine maintenance and corrosion control, scratches and bare patches are filled up. Touchups mix in easily because of the semigloss finish's absence of clear coat.
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Re: Chassis Construction

Postby schnottus » Sun Aug 14, 2022 10:52 am

2k epoxy primer (find at any auo body shop) followed by a single stage topcoat in black (i like imron paint but cheaper enamels like rustoleum work well too). Epoxy primer sprays really easy, just make sure to read the tech sheet when mixing in case it has an induction period.

I would disagree on powdercoat being best. In addition to being costly it is difficult to repair if you get any rock chips or decide to add tabs or change anything in the future.
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