Harbor freight trailer setup

[LMarsh]

I just want to be sure on a few things as I begin putting my HF 4x8' trailer together. I haven't even gotten it of the box at this point.

1) For a standard Benroy is the axle well positioned as normally assembled?
2) I've seen pictures of people taking, I guess 2, of the cross pieces and nesting them in the side rails to convert from a folding trailer to a nonfolding. Can I use one of the cross members, cut it in half and use one half on each side while keeping the same number of total cross pieces for my trailer frame? I figured it would be strong enough. I am planning on using 1/2" ply for the floor, thats what the generic Benroy plans call for. Any other tips on assembling it as a nonfolding?
3) I was going to use just 2 of the BAL leveler/stabilizer jacks in the rear corners and just the tongue jack in the front. I've read a lot of the posts on this subject but want to be sure that will be safe. From what I've read it appears so but I like to be sure.


Thanks!

[mikeschn]

No matter what you build, you'll have to move the axle rearward...

Mike...

[LMarsh]

Do I move the axle after I'm done with construction to get the tonque weight to to proper amount? If the tongue weight is a percentage of the total weight do I first have to weight my TD then make the proper adjustments? I guess I'm confused on how you know where to position the axle when you're just at the trailer frame stage.

[brian_bp]

I suggest a look at the Trailer Balance part of the Design Library which is linked at the top of the T&TTT page. This has Andrew's worksheet, which can be used even at the design stage to try out component and axle placements to get the right balance.

I think it's worth getting a reasonably good idea of placement early, so that you don't find yourself moving the axle to a place which causes problems with other parts of the trailer (such as being far enough forward that the fenders interfere with a side door opening).

[satch]

I wouldn't cut one cross member in half to get 2 pieces. Just use one full length on each side and replace them with 2x4s, unless you decide to weld the center pieces. I extended my hf trailer to 9' using the crossmembers as extentions, and only replaced one with lumber.

[doug hodder]

Just an idea...on a bolt up frame, I'd use some red loctite on the nuts, lock washers can have problems and it can't hurt. Others may have varying opinions. Doug

[mikeschn]

You'll need to decide where the axle will be before you start the build. This is especially true if you are building out over the wheels.



Using one of the spreadsheets in the design library is your best bet.

Or if you are building the curved weekender, plan on about 44" from the rear of the body... (which is 38" from the rear of the chassis)

Mike...

[bobhenry]

I expect to be fully berated for this oversimplification
but I have used the 60-40 method on 3 sizes of tear I had
thought about building and I came out within 2 inches of the
balance sheet. If your tear body is 120" *.4 = 48" from the
rear 96*.4= 38" form the rear to the centerline of the axle.
If you have a heavy item ie A/C or tongue box move
1 - 2 inches in their direction. I know it's too simple so
it must be wrong but it worked on my 5x10 beautifully.

[Alphacarina]

I think that's as good a rule of thumb as any - Because of loading and design differences, you'll never get it perfect deciding where to put it beforehand anyway - Thankfully, it's not terribly important to be 'right on' because even if you're 20% off, the resultant tongue weight change is pretty small. Always best to error with the axle a little too far aft, as trailers all tow better with a little too much tonge weight than they do with too little

The hardware that came with my HF 1740 is all high quality, self locking and should suffice for most needs . . . . however you wouldn't believe the difference in torsional rigidity I got after I welded all the joints - It's just way less flexible with welded joints as it is with bolted ones

Don

[LMarsh]

I played with the spread sheet a bunch and I think I get it. Its still kind of hard to know just how much weight will be where. Like how much stuff am I going to be putting in my lower galley at the rear of the trailer and how much in the upper shelves that are closer to being over the axle or how much in the tongue box. I guess the tongue box is good for helping to balance it out depending on what you load up. If over a weekend trip I eat 50lbs of food that was stored in the rear I suppose it doesn't throw it off by much.