axle capicity?

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axle capicity?

Postby Hunterbug » Wed Jun 03, 2009 2:26 am

How can I tell how much weight my axle can handle? I'm stripping down an old utility trailer and I don't know how much weight I can get away with. I'm not planning on getting to carried away, maby #1200 ish? I don't know. Here's the best pic I've got of the axle.

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Postby PaulC » Wed Jun 03, 2009 6:15 am

The weight rating of axles is normally determined by the thickness, read diameter in your case. Measure it and find a manufacturer web page and that will tell you. By looking at your pic I would hazard a guess of around 2500 pounds.
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Postby Trackstriper » Wed Jun 03, 2009 9:11 am

It's a little tough to tell from that one photo but I am seeing that you have an inner wheel bearing that's larger than the outer bearing. That is typical on today's axles rated at up to 3500#. Most of the 2000# class axles will use the same size bearings (either 1" or 1-1/16") as both inner and outer bearings. Check the inner diameter of the inner race of the inner bearing. Did I get that right?
:roll:

That is, the inner diameter of the larger bearing. Is it 1-3/8"? If so you are probably good to go.

I don't know how old your trailer is, it appears to have a drop axle so that it will sit a little lower than it would with a straight axle. It also seems to have of a set of leaf springs more like those used on a car, rather than standard trailer leaf springs which are generally quite a bit shorter in length. I would assume that it will ride smoothly, but it might benefit from a set of shocks if the trailer bounces around too much. Also, you might be able to mount the axle over the springs rather than under them to lower the whole rig if you wish, detailed pictures would help.

Maybe a good way to check out the whole chassis is to load it up with some stuff to where it weighs about 1200# and see how the trailer handles things. With the trailer empty you could weigh each wheel load with a bathroom scale. Ditto the tongue weight. Add them up an it would be pretty close to the empty trailer weight. Weigh items of "freight" with the bathroom scale and put 'em in the trailer, keep your hitch weight at 10-15% of the total trailer weight.
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Postby Hunterbug » Wed Jun 03, 2009 1:32 pm

Thanx for the answers. I've only towed it with what you see there and it towed great, no bouncing or swaying. The floor was 2X6s with a piece od partical board plus the sides were heavily built. I'm thinking that it was used to haul a motorcycle as it had places to tie down at all 4 corners. So after I get the frame redone I should be good to go for a TTT.
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Postby wannabefree » Wed Jun 03, 2009 11:03 pm

you're in luck; the box is still on.

Go to a gravel yard and have them load it with gravel until the springs break. Weigh it. The capacity is about half that :lol:

I know, nobody likes a smart...

Seriously, add weight until the springs are about halfway between their relaxed position and dead straight and that's about as much weight as you want to put on it. Lour local nursery might just let you use 50 lb sacks of manure to do the job if you promise to repile it nice.
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Postby del » Wed Jun 03, 2009 11:49 pm

I am told axle manufactures use different bearings for different capacity axles. So find out what bearings you have and a trailer supply place should be able to tell what the axle cap should be.

hope this helps
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Postby Hunterbug » Thu Jun 04, 2009 11:44 am

LOL, the box is gone now. The wood was so rotten I doubt that it would have held 100 pounds let alone a 1000. So I'm thinking that I should easily be safe to #1200.
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Postby kennyrayandersen » Tue Jun 16, 2009 3:34 am

wannabefree wrote:you're in luck; the box is still on.

Go to a gravel yard and have them load it with gravel until the springs break. Weigh it. The capacity is about half that :lol:

I know, nobody likes a smart...

Seriously, add weight until the springs are about halfway between their relaxed position and dead straight and that's about as much weight as you want to put on it. Lour local nursery might just let you use 50 lb sacks of manure to do the job if you promise to repile it nice.
:lol: :lol:

I was thinking the same thing. Hard to build after the destructive test though. Actually I think this axle might be pretty stiff for a tear if it's made for 3500 lb
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Postby Trackstriper » Wed Jun 17, 2009 8:37 am

kennyrayandersen wrote:...... Hard to build after the destructive test though. Actually I think this axle might be pretty stiff for a tear if it's made for 3500 lb


Yeah, once you've destructively tested that's pretty much it. But the reason I'm calling is that some folks (serious off-roaders) will use a 3500# axle mounted on lighter springs. I went by Northern Tool several month's back and weighed some axles. Their 3500# axle had larger spindles and a larger axle tube, but I think it was possibly thinner wall tubing than the 2000# axle of similar track width. The 2000# weighed something like 22 pounds and the 3500# weighed about 2 pounds more, not a whole lot considering the spindles. Yes, 3500# hubs are heavier by a couple of pounds per pair, so there is some weight gain there. All of this would most likely be overkill for a teardrop, but if someone already had the axle tube, hubs, etc. they could pull a leaf or two from the spring pack or buy a set of new, lighter weight springs. The additional unsprung weight of a 3500# axle could be negligible.
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Postby Hunterbug » Wed Jun 17, 2009 2:23 pm

I like the additional height for when I take it elk hunting. I'm taking it this afternoon to see about getting the welding done. When you next see it it will look alot different.
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