Axle Maintenance

[dmckruit]

I remember reading a while ago about having to do something to the axle after the first 200-300 miles. I think it had to do with tightening something or other. Don't see much given in the manual that came with my trailer. It is a 4x8 tractor supply trailer.

Can anyone give me some info on this. I don't want to overlook anything that I should be doing.

[bobhenry]

Pack your bearings (yes all 4) now ! What is in the HF trailer is just a rust inhibitive gel and is not a good grade of grease.

Clean them completely and repack them do not rely on the "factory" to have done it for you.

When reinstalling adjust to snug and back off just enough to install the cotter pin. Now you can ignore them for 1 year and repeat next season.

There are several good how to sessions on the forum maybe someone will link it again for ya. ( I am not that talented yet)

A good tip is leave one side intact while you work on the other so if you question your reassembly order you have the other side for referance.

[wlooper89]

Pack your bearings (yes all 4) now ! What is in the HF trailer is just a rust inhibitive gel and is not a good grade of grease.

Clean them completely and repack them do not rely on the "factory" to have done it for you.

When reinstalling adjust to snug and back off just enough to install the cotter pin. Now you can ignore them for 1 year and repeat next season.

There are several good how to sessions on the forum maybe someone will link it again for ya. ( I am not that talented yet)

A good tip is leave one side intact while you work on the other so if you question your reassembly order you have the other side for referance.

The owner's manual that came with my AL-KO axle calls for a 6,000 mile interval to inspect and repack the bearings. I noticed Dexter says 12,000 miles in their axle manual that I pulled up online. Not sure which is better, but doing it annually as Bob suggested sounds like a very good idea.

We mostly have made short weekend trips and 6K miles might take more than a year to accumulate, so I will probably go with annual or no more than 6K. I spoke with AL-KO tech service about changing the hubs when I ordered trailer brakes. They recommended looking at the races on the old hubs as well as the bearings when they are removed, for signs of discoloration from overheating. That would be an indication to replace the bearings.

Another precaution of touching the wheels to check the temperature near the outer bearing was mentioned in another topic. That might give an alert after driving for a while at highway speeds, if one wheel is hotter than the other.

I am very much the novice having never repacked the bearings, since I took the trailer to a maintenance shop to have the brakes installed. Etrailer.com has a video in the link below that seems to give a pretty good demonstration. If anyone has a comment about the demo or something to add it would be most appreciated. I hope to learn how to do this myself and also the brake adjustment that is a 3K interval.

http://www.etrailer.com/tv-repack_trail ... rings.aspx

Many thanks!

Bill

[ajricher]

Re: Wannabe grease in HF trailer bearings:

I have to say that the Tractor Supply axle I put under the Overlander on rebuilding was very, very good in that respect. I installed the axle and spent the time to pull one of the hubs, only to find it happily packed with very good wheel bearing grease.

Packing bearings really is simple to do - just make sure you get new seals for the back of the hubs before you do. You will damage the seal getting it out to access the rear bearing for packing...so do yourself a favor and just get them before you start.

When reinstalling adjust to snug and back off just enough to install the cotter pin. Now you can ignore them for 1 year and repeat next season.

Bob, got to disagree with you just slightly here. When doing them I put everything into place and snug the nut down to 20-foot pounds or so (pretty snug). Then, spin the hub 3-4 times to get the bearings seated down through the grease.

After that, undo the nut and spin it back up by hand till the slots align to put the cotter pin in - no wrench. This gives just enough slack without being excessive.

The only reason I'm saying anything is that I've had them float a bit on the grease when set without spinning - and be loose when assembled. Anything that keeps shock loads from a loose bearing well away I am in favor of as that can start brinnelling.


Oh, yes - don't forget to get Cotter pins, too - there is a level in hell reserved for people who reuse cotter pins...

Alan

[Ageless]

While you have it up in the air; do a visual of the springs and shackles. I might be old school but those places need a bit of lube also.

Put a wrench on all the nuts and bolts and make sure everything is snug.

[bobhenry]

Bob, got to disagree with you just slightly here. When doing them I put everything into place and snug the nut down to 20-foot pounds or so (pretty snug). Then, spin the hub 3-4 times to get the bearings seated down through the grease.

After that, undo the nut and spin it back up by hand till the slots align to put the cotter pin in - no wrench. This gives just enough slack without being excessive.

The only reason I'm saying anything is that I've had them float a bit on the grease when set without spinning - and be loose when assembled. Anything that keeps shock loads from a loose bearing well away I am in favor of as that can start brinnelling.


Oh, yes - don't forget to get Cotter pins, too - there is a level in hell reserved for people who reuse cotter pins...

Alan

I agree on all points I forgot the spin didn't I.

If you don't seat the bearing in the grease you will be readjusting them again ( if you are lucky enough to notice the slop)