4x8 HF trailer into a 5X10 tear?

[johnnyb1216]

hello all, getting ready to start my first build, getting ready to buy the HF 4x8 1750# trailer w/ 12" wheels . now i've seen you can over hang the sides 6" to achieve the 5 wide but if i extended the tounge could i overhang the front and back a foot to get the 10'. still in the planning stages but catching a sale and 20% coupon could get me the starting point for around $280 but if i cant get the 10' out of it i'll have to go to plan b ( dont have a plan b yet ,but it'll come). thanks for all the great info on this site.your workmanship is incredible, thanks again, john also if it is possible for the 10' how should i frame the floor? can i still us 1x stock or should i go to 2x2 or 2x4? it will be a sandwiched floor and want so stay light.

[egjacks]

I am building on a 4x8 HF frame, I stretched it to be 4x10 and am building out 6 inches over the sides. I don't have any pictures of it, but I copied this idea from Steve_Cox

This is Steve's trailer


here is a thread talking about different ways to go about it.
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=43850

[bobhenry]

While I did greatly modify the H.F. frame on chubby





I have built out and over a H.F. 40 x 48 on 2 builds and made them 5 foot and 7 foot in length. In both instances I simply made a halo of 2x4 on edge. I cut a 3/4 x 3/4 rabbet on top and bottom inside edge of the square of the halo then cut and inserted 3/4 osb as the top and bottom of the torsion box. They were screwed and glued and the center cavity filled with blue foam scraps to add strength to the diaphram and for insulation. On one I ran a center "floor joist" to stiffen up the flex in the 3/4 near the center of the box. To get clearance for the tires when building over the stock fenders you have to build UP as well.

Warning the center bolt in the top of the fender will cut a tire directly in half if you get close to the total weight capabilities of the trailer. You might be better of removing them as I did.



You need to locate and study "Nobodys" thread and album Harvey did a beautiful job building and modifying his H.F.frame. I stoled a couple ideas off of him as to how to reinforce the tongue on my build . It is not difficult if you do it while you are at the frame stage so you might concider it right away. The stock tongue is simply TOO light for a 1200 - 1500 pound permanent load.

Chubby wound up 5'7" wide out to out and 10' long point to long point ! It is spacious and we love him!

[johnnyb1216]

thanks for the quick replies, i really like the building beside instead of on top idea found in that link fromyou egjacks. i like chubbys chassis to but im a better wood worker than welder now if i decide to build beside can i fill the frame with sheet insulation just by glueing it to my floor or should i put a thin ply on the bottom and seal the best i can?
i dont want you guys to think i havent studied this site and taking the ez way by just asking the questions, but ive been all over this site and you guys have such great info. everyone does it different, its like information overload thanks again, john

[johnnyb1216]

and thanks bobhenry for the tip about the fenders. first ive heard of that

[absolutsnwbrdr]

I did 5x10 on a 4x8 frame, without modifications to the frame rails. Only thing I modified was the tongue which was fairly simple. I used 2x4's for framing, and actually hung my solid 3/4" sides from the 2x4's. The sides also are supported by the galley bulkhead. Some will say the 2x4's are overkill, but hey, I know they arent going anywhere (especially with some of the paths I travel down)

Raising the deck up also allowed for some storage compartments, and I even ended up hanging my battery underneath the trailer.

[johnnyb1216]

i like it zack, so you just lengthened your tounge and extended your floor forward and let it sit on the extended tongue? also some props for ya- im a big fan of your builds. did you extend the total 2' forward or was your floor length a little smaller than over all tear length? or did you do some front and some back? i like the stepped floor, really why should you insulate the galley floor?

[johnnyb1216]

I did 5x10 on a 4x8 frame, without modifications to the frame rails. Only thing I modified was the tongue which was fairly simple. I used 2x4's for framing, and actually hung my solid 3/4" sides from the 2x4's. The sides also are supported by the galley bulkhead. Some will say the 2x4's are overkill, but hey, I know they arent going anywhere (especially with some of the paths I travel down)

Raising the deck up also allowed for some storage compartments, and I even ended up hanging my battery underneath the trailer.

see questions above sorry im kindda computer illiterate

[Woodbutcher]

I did just what you are thinking of doing. Check out my build thread and see if this might help.

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=39036

[len19070]

I extended one out to 65" so I didn't need external fenders at all.




Happy Trails

Len

[absolutsnwbrdr]

i like it zack, so you just lengthened your tounge and extended your floor forward and let it sit on the extended tongue? also some props for ya- im a big fan of your builds. did you extend the total 2' forward or was your floor length a little smaller than over all tear length? or did you do some front and some back? i like the stepped floor, really why should you insulate the galley floor?

Yeah, the tongue is extended out, placing the coupler about 5' in front of the original frame (instead of the original approx 3'). The rear of the trailer only extends a few inches passed the back edge of the frame. The base of the front curve is about a foot in front of the trailer frame, and then the forward-most part of the front curve is about another foot in front of the base of the curve. And then I guess the center section sticks forward anoother 3 or 4 inches. This pic probably shows all of that if I didnt quite explain it well enough....

[johnnyb1216]

thank all for the replies, i think im ready to start . see ya soon in the build threads ,john