Trailer to Deck Spacers?

[Z3R0]

I came across an issue with my trailer frame. I either need to make spacers or get 3 inch wide by 7 foot x 1/8 inch plate and weld in some attachment features. The problem is that who ever I got the trailer from added a 4x4x1/8 or 3/16 angle to the sides. Not a bad idea to tie it all in and it looks good but now it messes with the stack up. I could use washers but I'm thinking that after a while it will just sink in and basically be non existant. I was wondering if any of you have came across this issue and what you did to fix this. I would really hate to have to weld in some plate but it seems to be the best solution as I also don't know how much material I have to work with when bolting the frame to the deck as it is. Really anxious to get this build going and the more I stand in the garage pondering ideas the more frustrated I get that I didn't build a trailer myself. Since I am building a fairly long trailer as well I will be running my 4x8 peice across the trailer. (Trailer is roughly 7x11). So a total of 4 plates would need to be installed to ensure good structure of the deck. Uhhh... Not all that happy right now. I just want to get to the wood part because its what I know how to do! Pardon my whining HAHA

[down under tech]

Hello: I used 1/8" thick aluminum flat stock that I got from Lowes on my HF frame to bring the cross members up to the same height as the outside rails of the frame. I was concerned the wooden floor would sag as well as squeak. I drilled through the aluminum and the steel frame members and I counter sunk the flat head tapered machine screws so they were just below the surface of the aluminum. I used Nylock nuts to keep it all tight. It worked out great. I think this is what you are talking about???

[Z3R0]

Exactly the same issue. So after looking at your trailer setup, how did u mount the floor? I was looking to have my 1/2 sides rest on the frame as well as the floor platform. My worry with this is that I might not have enough material to bolt through. Ill see if you have a build thread to look at this. Perfect example.

[Z3R0]

That was easier than I thought it was going to be. Great build by the way. Looks like you went with the same style wall joint as I did. I guess I'll just have to get a couple pieces of wood and just see what my stack ups look like. Looks like it worked fine for you. The idea with the aluminum strips is exactly what I'm looking for. Never thought of bolting it down. Thank you!

[Z3R0]

Sometimes I over think and other times I completely forget stuff. So the stack up is fine because since the sides are decently wide, the 1/2 side plywood will work fine. Since I'm not using the 1/2 plywood for the back and front I don't have a problem. Ugh. Sometimes I need to just do and not plan hahah. Thank for your help its greatly appreciated even if the answers make me look slow lol.

[down under tech]

Glad I could help. That is what this forum is for... Questions??? Ask away. You will find the answer here.

[Z3R0]

Well... This would have worked a little better if my angle iron was 1/8th but since its 3/16th's it still doesnt stack up correctly... looks like my cross beams are going to be ripped 2x4's to custom depths. Really wish I would have just built my own trailer for this now... rather annoying! See the image below for a better understanding. I need to make up the gap between the red and blue. Let me know if anyone else has ripped a 2X4 for this issue! I have a feeling its not going to be as easy as I would like!

The Red is actually a 2x4 on its side and the green would be 2 going horizonally and the 3.8125 is actually 2.1875 Vertically. And in the real world we know a 2x4 isnt really a 2x4 but you get the idea. (1.5x3.5)

[S. Heisley]

I read where someone simply added redwood lathe to the underside of their deck frame to take up that little space; so, that's what I did. I glued and screwed lathe to the deck framing, where needed. That works good too. Just remember to epoxy them with the rest of the deck and put the black goo on them, too; or, do to those strips whatever you're doing to protect the rest of wood.

I've read that aluminium and steel don't react well to one another; but, if the trailer is already painted, it might be okay...I don't know.

[angib]

Using a metal spacer sounds like a waste - expensive and heavy, and the strength isn't needed. Strip wood is good, as it's easy to make and it will be reasonably easy to protect. Strips of thin plywood I would avoid as it is going to be hard to protect the end grain on their cut sides, so they will start rotting the day after they are fitted.

[H.A.]

Kxk

[Z3R0]

I also thought of the plastic option but its kind of expensive, about the cost of the aluminum. I think im just going to measure my spacing and rip a 2x4 with a circular saw. I'll let you know how it turns out. I know that once you rip a 2x4 in that direction they tend to want to bow so I'll mount my 2 side 2x4's then rip my front and rear 2x4's, secure those down and add some angle brackets in the corners. Hopefully this turns out as planned. The whole thing will be coated with some black roofing tar with caulk in the seams. I think I'll put a layer of roofing tar in the corners before I mount the brackets. That seems to be a good step to take.

Also has anyone floated a somewhat structural beam? I've figured out that I need 3 4x8 sheets. So on the last sheet, where the 2 sheets meet I will be putting a 2x4 across that seam both top and bottom. This is where the galley wall will start. Theres nothing to bolt the lower 2x4 as I don't have a metal cross brace on the trailer in that location. Do you think I'll have a problem as I will be screwing into the 2 sides and there will be basically 1/2in plywood sandwiched between 2x4's. I'm also thinking that I could run 3 2x4's across and the middle one will be the seam support. That was its not all loading in one area. What are you thoughts guys. BTW thanks for all your help already. Once I get past the trailer part I think I'm smooth(er) sailing as I'm not a fan of metal.