5X10 design

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5X10 design

Postby sjacobso76 » Fri Aug 14, 2009 11:51 am

I've searched through the forum and have yet to find what I'm looking for.

I have a company nearby that builds trailers. They are very small, so I think I can get them to build exactly what I want for not very much. I have been out to look at their trailers and they have a 5X10 frame that is going for $995. The problem is that it has a lot of stuff I don't want, and I'm thinking I can have exactly what I want built for less than that.

So my question is what do I want? I'm hoping to find a line drawing or a picture of a 5X10 that would be what I'm looking for. I'm thinking I'm going to build something similar to the Lil Diner that Steve Frederick built.

I think one thing that I want is a torsion axle. I'm looking at 13" wheels; will that allow me to go freeway speeds? I think an axle rated in the 2000# range is also what I want. I've done just enough research to be dangerous at this point.

Also, is it better to have the fenders welded to the frame, or to attach them to the teardrop? It seems to me it would be better to be attached to the teardrop so there aren't any rubbing problems, but I know almost nothing.

Thanks for any and all help you can give!
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Postby mikeschn » Fri Aug 14, 2009 5:25 pm

Here's the 5x8 that I had welded up for the weekender. I then modified it by taking the first inside cross bar off before taking it to Steve to have him build the Lil Diner on it.

You may not want a 5x10 if you are building a Lil Diner Clone. 5x8 would be plenty.

Check out both Lil Diner albums in the Hall of Fame for more details!

or click here
http://www.mikenchell.com/Lil_Diner_Photo_Album/

and here
http://www.mikenchell.com/Lil_Diner_2_Photo_Album/

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The quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten, so build your teardrop with the best materials...
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Postby chorizon » Fri Aug 14, 2009 5:50 pm

Quick discrete threadjack...Mike, is that a home-made CNC router in the 2nd album pics? Quite nice!
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Postby mikeschn » Fri Aug 14, 2009 6:16 pm

chorizon wrote:Quick discrete threadjack...Mike, is that a home-made CNC router in the 2nd album pics? Quite nice!


Yep, you can see all the gruesome details here... :?

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2763

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Postby sjacobso76 » Fri Aug 14, 2009 8:30 pm

I'm actually now looking at the Benroy, as I like the shape of that a little more. I will be stretching it to be a 5X10 as we'll be travelling with my 4 year old. My thought is that he can sleep sideways at the head (or foot) of our bed until he is too big, and then he can move to the back of the jeep. I've thought a bit about putting a bunk it to later be filled by cabinet space, but I'm not decided on that quite yet.

By the way, I'm really impressed with your site and your work Mike. It was great to stumble upon as I'm starting my TD research. Prior to here, I've been finding bits and pieces, but this has it all in one place. Thanks!!

Sam
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Postby mikeschn » Fri Aug 14, 2009 8:46 pm

sjacobso76 wrote:I'm actually now looking at the Benroy, as I like the shape of that a little more. I will be stretching it to be a 5X10 as we'll be travelling with my 4 year old. My thought is that he can sleep sideways at the head (or foot) of our bed until he is too big, and then he can move to the back of the jeep. I've thought a bit about putting a bunk it to later be filled by cabinet space, but I'm not decided on that quite yet.

By the way, I'm really impressed with your site and your work Mike. It was great to stumble upon as I'm starting my TD research. Prior to here, I've been finding bits and pieces, but this has it all in one place. Thanks!!

Sam


The sidewalls on my Baja Benroy were 5x10. You might want to check that build out!
http://www.mikenchell.com/Baja_Benroy_Photo_Album/

Mike...

P.S. Thanks for the compliment!
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Postby Forrest747 » Mon Aug 17, 2009 4:36 am

here is a link to what I did for my 5X10 trailer. Planning on bolting the fender to the wood sides using t-bolts so i can take them off if needed.
Good Luck.

http://thecharlietrailer.blogspot.com/
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Postby Senior Ninja » Mon Aug 17, 2009 10:56 pm

Mike,
What a beautiful trailer, a wonderful shop and best of all two good friends to share the experience.
Steve

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Postby Carter » Fri Aug 28, 2009 4:15 am

Sam,
Send me the frame dimensions and style you are looking for and I'll draw one up. Need actual length, width, axle placement, tongue length, tube or angle, etc. I play around with it all the time, might be fun to actually have a useful purpose. The one below shows a tube tongue, 2x2 angle frame that the floor drops into and the sides bolt to the outside. Similar to a TSC in construction. I've started drawing up something similar for a trailer with enclosed wheels

Jim
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Postby sjacobso76 » Wed Sep 02, 2009 9:38 am

Thanks Jim for the drawing offer! Unfortunately I don't really know what I need/want. I'm learning a lot, but still have a lot to learn.

So here's a few questions for ya'all. I'm looking at building my floor out of 3/4X2" framing, 16" OC, sandwiched between 1/4" ply. If I sufficiently bolt that down to the frame can I totally do without cross members? I like the idea of reducing weight and cost (I am having the trailer custom built). I am thinking I would need two cross members surrounding my drop down storage box as I assume that would weaken my sandwich structure.

Other question: are stabilizers usually bolted on or welded on? I asked my trailer builder to include them in his bid, but I wasn't sure if that's usually something added after the fact. I have a feeling he can get them at a much better cost than I can, so maybe it's best just to leave it.

Last one (for this time): I've asked my trailer builder not to include electrical, but now I'm having second thoughts. If I have him put in electrical, should I also have him put an access point for me in the system so I can tie my lights and such into it? That's my current thought about it, but I currently know very little about 12 volt. I don't want to have to cut into it later.

Thanks so much for all you guys have helped with so far. I've been watching a friend build a TD from an instruction booklet and running into lots of problems, so I'm very happy to be finding such good information to help me avoid such problems!

Sam
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Postby planovet » Wed Sep 02, 2009 10:25 am

sjacobso76 wrote:Last one (for this time): I've asked my trailer builder not to include electrical, but now I'm having second thoughts. If I have him put in electrical, should I also have him put an access point for me in the system so I can tie my lights and such into it? That's my current thought about it, but I currently know very little about 12 volt. I don't want to have to cut into it later.


I would reconsider. If you don't know much about 12V, then having the trailer wired for you will save a lot a hassle. Also, it's much easier being able to just plug in and tow it away when you pick it up. My trailer was wired ready to go when I bought it. I didn't know much about 12V either and would not have wanted to learn on the trailer. And after reading several threads here about trailer wiring and light issues, I'm glad I didn't. I know more now and was able to wire the rest of my tear for 12V with no problems. To each his own but I would think about having them wire the trailer for you. Just my $0.02.
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Postby sjacobso76 » Wed Sep 02, 2009 2:26 pm

Mark:

Thanks for the advice. I'd already been thinking toward having the rear lights be wired in and then having the trailer builder add in an access point for my needs; your message helped make that decision!

Sam
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Postby bobhenry » Wed Sep 02, 2009 6:08 pm

Where is the adventure in that ?

I melted several feet of wire and learned real quick how to do it right.

We're here we will help!

My mistake was being to cheap to but the right gage of wire I knew better but ya gotta experiment.

Here is a 12 volt wiring diagram from Joanne that helped me a bunch......

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Postby Carter » Wed Sep 02, 2009 6:32 pm

Sam
Maybe a good idea to have stabilizer jack mounts welded to the trailer and bolt the jacks to that. That way they are easy to replace if you happen to drive away with them down. ( I know, nobody would ever do that, no, anybody can do that) Atwoods use 2 3/8" bolts 3" on center to mount. put a plate with that hole patten on a diagonal brace at the corners and bolt the jack to them

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Postby greekspeedoman » Fri Sep 04, 2009 12:32 am

Sam,

I built a 5 x 10 with a bunk in it for a little one. It is a stretched benroy design. I am not done yet but I'm using it while it's summer. Check out my website: http://jpodbuild.wordpress.com

I hope this helps.
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