frozen bearing please help **update**

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frozen bearing please help **update**

Postby BillZ » Tue May 25, 2010 5:02 pm

I am in the process of readying the old trailer I bought for my tear build and today I went to inspect repack the bearings. It's the first time I have done this but there are some great tutorials posted on this site that are very helpful.


First side looked good-the grease was still red and clean.

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The other side is a different story. As soon as I pulled the dust cap off, I noticed dark brown grease with a muddy consistency. The outer bearing came off ok but when I pulled the hub out with the castle nut attached it came off without the inner bearing. The inner bearing is frozen on the spindle. I have been tapping on it from behind with a screwdriver and hammer but hope there is a better way to do it. Will something like WD-40 help loosen it up?

Image

Also, The tutorials I found mention a washer behind the castle nut. I did not have this washer. Is it possible that my hub design doesn't use a washer or are they likely missing and need to be added?
Last edited by BillZ on Thu May 27, 2010 8:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby eatatjoz » Tue May 25, 2010 5:18 pm

If you have a plumber's torch, heat the bearing the best you can while trying to stay away from the spindle.
You should be able to knock it off with a hammer while it's hot.
Don't beat on the spindle though!
This expands the bearing and should give enough slack from the cooler spindle to free it from it's bonds.

I don't think penetrating oil is going to help you in this situation.
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Postby BillZ » Tue May 25, 2010 5:40 pm

Thanks for the reply.
I don't have any kind of torch. I willtry to warm it up with a soldering iron
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GRIND!

Postby eamarquardt » Tue May 25, 2010 7:02 pm

The bearing is toast! So, I'd get a small grinder and just grind through the bearing being verrrrrry careful not to grind the spindle. Once you get the bearing pretty thin in one spot you shoud be able to take a chisel and by chisling at an angle get it to break. Then it should be easy to knock off.

I've done this type of "destructive" disassembly many times and know that it works. A bit more fun is to cut it off with an actylene torch. I've cut nuts off of studs and not even touched the threads. Gotta be careful though.

Cheers,

Gus
Last edited by eamarquardt on Tue May 25, 2010 8:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Larwyn » Tue May 25, 2010 7:18 pm

I would use heat from the oxy/acetylene torch and a slide hammer but since you are working with limited tools, Gus's idea of using a grinder and chisel would probably be the least expensive route if you have to go out and buy everything you need.
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Postby BillZ » Tue May 25, 2010 7:38 pm

Well, I just went out and bought a small propane tank with a torch attachment. I heated the bearing up until it was red hot and pounded on it hard. It didn't budge :cry:
I don't have a grinder either and hate to have to buy another tool. Thinking of taking the axle to my mechanic and see if he can get it off.
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Postby rainjer » Tue May 25, 2010 7:52 pm

If your going to buy another tool, buy a bearing puller. Something like this.

http://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-thr ... 40970.html

It should pull it right off. Also check you local auto parts store. You may be able to rent one.

Jeremy
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Postby rainjer » Tue May 25, 2010 7:56 pm

Also try some PB Blaster spray.

I had one stuck like that. Once I put the bearing puller on in only took a couple turns to free it up and then it slid right off.

Jeremy
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Postby chorizon » Tue May 25, 2010 8:05 pm

rainjer wrote:Also try some PB Blaster spray.

I had one stuck like that. Once I put the bearing puller on in only took a couple turns to free it up and then it slid right off.

Jeremy


PB Blaster works. I give it my whole-hearted recommendation. :thumbsup:
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Postby Shadow Catcher » Tue May 25, 2010 8:13 pm

I made a puller using a heavy piece of scrap steel cut into two pieces a U shaped notch the same shape/Diameter as the axle in one piece two heavy bolts connecting the plates making a puller.
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Postby eamarquardt » Tue May 25, 2010 8:23 pm

BillZ wrote:............... and hate to have to buy another tool.


Buying tools is one of life's great pleasures! Maybe you can borrow a small grinder from a friend. All my friends "argue" why should they buy their own tools when they can borrow mine.

Cheers,

Gus
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Postby BillZ » Tue May 25, 2010 10:52 pm

rainjer wrote:If your going to buy another tool, buy a bearing puller. Something like this.

http://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-thr ... 40970.html

It should pull it right off. Also check you local auto parts store. You may be able to rent one.

Jeremy


Thanks, I will head to the Harbor Freight tomorrow and pick up a bearing puller.
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Postby eatatjoz » Tue May 25, 2010 11:05 pm

before you give up and go to HF, soak a towel in water and freeze it.
Wrap that around the spindle and heat the bearing again.
You've already bought the little propane torch so it's worth a shot.
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Postby dh » Tue May 25, 2010 11:23 pm

If you heated it till it was red hot you may have heated so much the spindle got hot as well. You just need it to expand a few thousandths to let go. I'm a little old school in my shop, but I have a lead hammer I have for this type of thing, you can give it hell and not worry about dinging anything. Brass hammers work well too, but with lead I can re-cast a head in house.
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Postby Corwin C » Tue May 25, 2010 11:54 pm

Lots of advice on getting the old bearing off ... I personally would use the grinder method (dremel w/cutoff wheel) ... cut the cage, not a roller, and don't cut all the way through. (there I go again ... agreeing w/ Gus) Once the rollers come loose, get them out of the way and you can attack the race underneath (if it has one ... you're actually better off if it does.) Again be real careful and don't quite cut all the way through. Races are made from a very hard, brittle steel and will shatter if you weaken it in a couple of places and give it a good whack (brass drift is my tool of choice here.)

Just make SURE that the spindle isn't damaged before installing a new bearing. All too often in these cases, the spindle will be damaged as well and the next set of bearings will fail rather quickly. From your description about it's condition, I suspect the old grease became contaminated (probably water).
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