rladams39 wrote:Does it vary trailer to trailer? if i build my floor 4x8 and my walls overlap the outside of my floor will it sit down over the frame?would hate to build to find out the trailer is 48 1/8 wide or something, being a little narrower would be fine.
rladams39 wrote:Well i have some of my materials for the camper, was wanting to work on it over the winter, was planning on buying the trailer when tax time hits.
Guess if the trailer is a little wide i could shorten the cross members to make it 48". I plan on welding all of the joints when its bolted together anyways. Was basically looking for a starting point on the dimensions,
Although i guess i could build it so the walls do not overhang the frame. then i can add some trim or something later to hid the frame if needed.
dh wrote: Personally, I think trying to assemble a trailer like that and keep deminsions exact would result in a wrench being thrown accross the shop.
eamarquardt wrote:dh wrote: Personally, I think trying to assemble a trailer like that and keep deminsions exact would result in a wrench being thrown accross the shop.
I never get mad at "inanimate objects" as I believe (perhaps falsely) that I'm always smarter than they are!
Cheers,
Gus
rladams39 wrote:Bobhenry we have thought about that, but we also Love the looks of the tires outside the box with fenders, the more classic looking tear.
still a month or so away from starting a build so it is definitely still in the planning stages.. right now we are trying to find the lowest cost on resin and glass, and trying to find a local supplier for aluminum, Not sure if it is going to be a woody, painted, or if it will have an aluminum skin.
If i have to i can build my own frame, but doubt i could do it cheaper than the HF trailer, still keeping my eyes out for a major deal on a usable chassis though.
Senior Ninja wrote:My HF 4X8 was just perfect for a 3/4 sheet of 4X8 plywood for the floor. All of my width measurements were right on forty eight inches. That way I used only full sheets of plywood. We built the walls before standing them up and included all the wiring and insulation. We left a keyway in the bottom side of the walls. We screwed and glued a key around the perimeter of the floor, stood the walls up on the key and fastened with both glue and air driven staples. The hinge was screwed to one end of a 4X8 sheet of 1/4 4X8 plywood and bent over the top.
Most of the questions I get are about bending plywood. Our method, heat a full tea kettle of boiling water. Cover the area to be bent with a large beach towel, fasten one end of the plywood, weigh the other end, and slowly pour the boiling water over the towel. Leave it alone for a while then finish bending the wood and fasten however you want. Worked just fine for both the front roof and the hatch.
Buy or borrow a pilot hole jig (Lowes has them but you have to hunt for them) to fasten the rafters to the wall. I also used it to build the face molding for the storage area inside the trailer. I also used them to build the top on the tongue box.
Whenever it begins to feel like work, we recommend stopping and coming back later. Hang on to the memories, consult this site, and take more pictures than you feel you need.
Steve
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