HF trailer question?

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HF trailer question?

Postby rladams39 » Fri Jul 23, 2010 8:17 pm

I have been doing some searching but am probably just missing it,

On the HF trailer what is the dimensions of the frame from outside of rails, width and lenght.
I know it says 4x8 trailer but is it actually 4x8? i am wanting to start on a new tear soon and want to build the structure before i get the trailer.

Is the floor simply 4x8? or is it 4x8 total width to the outside of the finished walls? I would like for my walls to overhang so you do not see any of the trailer frame.
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Postby rladams39 » Fri Jul 23, 2010 8:30 pm

Does it vary trailer to trailer? if i build my floor 4x8 and my walls overlap the outside of my floor will it sit down over the frame?would hate to build to find out the trailer is 48 1/8 wide or something, being a little narrower would be fine.
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Postby Elmosaurus » Fri Jul 23, 2010 9:05 pm

rladams39 wrote:Does it vary trailer to trailer? if i build my floor 4x8 and my walls overlap the outside of my floor will it sit down over the frame?would hate to build to find out the trailer is 48 1/8 wide or something, being a little narrower would be fine.


I'm not sure which trailer you're asking about.

I bought the super duty 1700 lb version.

When assembled (very carefully, paying attention to squareness and uniformity along it's length) my trailer FRAME came out to 48 9/16" wide the entire length as measured from the outer edge to outer edge of the metal FRAME.

Therefore, a 48" wide floor would actually fall short of the edges of the frame by 1/4" or so on each side, when centered.

There is some play in the bolts, and one could build it probably 1/4" narrower, but probably not by much more.

I would suggest you buy the trailer first, and custom build your floor to the trailer; don't try to build the floor first... you may end up off by a bit.

E.
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Postby rladams39 » Fri Jul 23, 2010 9:20 pm

Well i have some of my materials for the camper, was wanting to work on it over the winter, was planning on buying the trailer when tax time hits.

Guess if the trailer is a little wide i could shorten the cross members to make it 48". I plan on welding all of the joints when its bolted together anyways. Was basically looking for a starting point on the dimensions,
Although i guess i could build it so the walls do not overhang the frame. then i can add some trim or something later to hid the frame if needed.
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Postby dh » Fri Jul 23, 2010 10:23 pm

Just repeating what I've read before, but there is some play in the bolt holes, and I have heard it can be built right on, or a little smaller or a little bigger. Personally, I think trying to assemble a trailer like that and keep deminsions exact would result in a wrench being thrown accross the shop.
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Postby bobhenry » Sat Jul 24, 2010 3:20 am

rladams39 wrote:Well i have some of my materials for the camper, was wanting to work on it over the winter, was planning on buying the trailer when tax time hits.

Guess if the trailer is a little wide i could shorten the cross members to make it 48". I plan on welding all of the joints when its bolted together anyways. Was basically looking for a starting point on the dimensions,
Although i guess i could build it so the walls do not overhang the frame. then i can add some trim or something later to hid the frame if needed.


Or wheels under for a wide ride. :D

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Postby rladams39 » Sat Jul 24, 2010 8:06 am

Bobhenry we have thought about that, but we also Love the looks of the tires outside the box with fenders, the more classic looking tear.

still a month or so away from starting a build so it is definitely still in the planning stages.. right now we are trying to find the lowest cost on resin and glass, and trying to find a local supplier for aluminum, Not sure if it is going to be a woody, painted, or if it will have an aluminum skin.


If i have to i can build my own frame, but doubt i could do it cheaper than the HF trailer, still keeping my eyes out for a major deal on a usable chassis though.
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Getting mad at inanimate objects!

Postby eamarquardt » Sat Jul 24, 2010 8:23 am

dh wrote: Personally, I think trying to assemble a trailer like that and keep deminsions exact would result in a wrench being thrown accross the shop.


I never get mad at "inanimate objects" as I believe (perhaps falsely) that I'm always smarter than they are!

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Re: Getting mad at inanimate objects!

Postby rladams39 » Sat Jul 24, 2010 8:46 am

eamarquardt wrote:
dh wrote: Personally, I think trying to assemble a trailer like that and keep deminsions exact would result in a wrench being thrown accross the shop.


I never get mad at "inanimate objects" as I believe (perhaps falsely) that I'm always smarter than they are!

Cheers,

Gus



LOL Someone once said,,, "I have to win I have the BRAIN."
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Postby bobhenry » Sat Jul 24, 2010 10:36 am

rladams39 wrote:Bobhenry we have thought about that, but we also Love the looks of the tires outside the box with fenders, the more classic looking tear.

still a month or so away from starting a build so it is definitely still in the planning stages.. right now we are trying to find the lowest cost on resin and glass, and trying to find a local supplier for aluminum, Not sure if it is going to be a woody, painted, or if it will have an aluminum skin.


If i have to i can build my own frame, but doubt i could do it cheaper than the HF trailer, still keeping my eyes out for a major deal on a usable chassis though.


Hey if ya need a good laugh look at the last couple pages in my album.
45 - 46 or whatever. I call it a hybrid frame the HF frame was destroyed by the previous owner trying to load a bolder on it (dumb ass) .
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If you would like to "try on" a 5x10 just P.M. me since you are in Indiana maybe we can arrange a day trip. We are near Crawfordsville/ Lafayette.

Hope you can visit Whitewater next weekend (sorry we are taking the barn :( )
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Postby rladams39 » Sat Jul 24, 2010 2:06 pm

Thanks Bob, we wont be at Whitewater (family reunion weekend), but we do plan on trying to attend the next one if things work out.


Would love to try on a 5x10 sometime, just have to see what our work schedules do, right now its looking pretty hecktic for work until after the holidays are over. ( work for a charity Org)
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Postby aggie79 » Mon Jul 26, 2010 4:08 pm

My HF utility trailer is exactly 4' x 8'.

With my stake bed sides, a 4' x 8' sheet of plywood will fit on the frame but a piece of MDF - which for some reason is an 49" x 97" - will not fit. The fenders are offset a bit. Going be memory, I believe they are about 3/4" to 1" outboard of the outside frame rail.
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Postby absolutsnwbrdr » Mon Jul 26, 2010 9:00 pm

I built mine on the 1720lb HF and my sidewalls attach to the outside of the frame. The roof spars and everything else going between the walls needed to be 48 1/2" I used the extra 1/4" on each side of the plywood floor as a wire chase.
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Postby Senior Ninja » Tue Jul 27, 2010 11:53 pm

My HF 4X8 was just perfect for a 3/4 sheet of 4X8 plywood for the floor. All of my width measurements were right on forty eight inches. That way I used only full sheets of plywood. We built the walls before standing them up and included all the wiring and insulation. We left a keyway in the bottom side of the walls. We screwed and glued a key around the perimeter of the floor, stood the walls up on the key and fastened with both glue and air driven staples. The hinge was screwed to one end of a 4X8 sheet of 1/4 4X8 plywood and bent over the top.
Most of the questions I get are about bending plywood. Our method, heat a full tea kettle of boiling water. Cover the area to be bent with a large beach towel, fasten one end of the plywood, weigh the other end, and slowly pour the boiling water over the towel. Leave it alone for a while then finish bending the wood and fasten however you want. Worked just fine for both the front roof and the hatch.
Buy or borrow a pilot hole jig (Lowes has them but you have to hunt for them) to fasten the rafters to the wall. I also used it to build the face molding for the storage area inside the trailer. I also used them to build the top on the tongue box.
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Postby rladams39 » Wed Jul 28, 2010 4:50 pm

Senior Ninja wrote:My HF 4X8 was just perfect for a 3/4 sheet of 4X8 plywood for the floor. All of my width measurements were right on forty eight inches. That way I used only full sheets of plywood. We built the walls before standing them up and included all the wiring and insulation. We left a keyway in the bottom side of the walls. We screwed and glued a key around the perimeter of the floor, stood the walls up on the key and fastened with both glue and air driven staples. The hinge was screwed to one end of a 4X8 sheet of 1/4 4X8 plywood and bent over the top.
Most of the questions I get are about bending plywood. Our method, heat a full tea kettle of boiling water. Cover the area to be bent with a large beach towel, fasten one end of the plywood, weigh the other end, and slowly pour the boiling water over the towel. Leave it alone for a while then finish bending the wood and fasten however you want. Worked just fine for both the front roof and the hatch.
Buy or borrow a pilot hole jig (Lowes has them but you have to hunt for them) to fasten the rafters to the wall. I also used it to build the face molding for the storage area inside the trailer. I also used them to build the top on the tongue box.
Whenever it begins to feel like work, we recommend stopping and coming back later. Hang on to the memories, consult this site, and take more pictures than you feel you need.
Steve


Thanks. I have a kreg jig already, just needed some good advice on dimensions. Wasnt sure if most were buildin 48" overall width or 48" floor with the walls being outside of trhat for a total width of say 49 1/2"
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