I bent My Trailer Frame

[Melvin]

- they can't even take the recommended static hitch load for this GVWR. Under the Aussie rules, this trailer would be rated for a maximum gross weight of 208-417lb - about what the trailer weighs empty!

So I think there's a clear case for saying this product is defective on the issue of the structural support for the tongue (not the tongue itself). I'm quite happy for a professional engineer to prove that my numbers are out by 25%, but they need to be out by 3-500% for this trailer to be acceptable.

Sorry if this sounds so bad, Robert, but I thought you might want an argument that you or anyone else could take to Northern Tool, or Carry-On.

I'd bet buried in the documentation someplace is a requirement for the trailer to have a floor installed that would strengthen this member. Even a simple 3/4" plywood floor would greatly strength this trailer, a plank floor would be even better.

[angib]

I'd bet buried in the documentation someplace is a requirement for the trailer to have a floor installed

I think the trailer also came with side rails about 9" high that I presume Robert has cut off. Both these and a ply/wood floor would increase the strength of the trailer.

But neither of these reinforces that second cross-member from being pulled downwards by the tongue, so neither would have prevented the damage that Robert has suffered.

Andrew

[Leon]

A "V" shaped tongue would be a lot stronger......

[surveytech]

Like the Little Guy's?

[robert]

Andrew

I think the trailer also came with side rails about 9" high that I presume Robert has cut off. Both these and a ply/wood floor would increase the strength of the trailer.

No the trailer did not have any sides just 2x2 angle and the floor is 1/2" plywood with 1x4's along the edge and at all the cross members.

Which do you thank is the best thing to do ?
Extend the tongue back to the second crossmember. OR Weld a new cross member to the one thats bent?

Andrew
one more questin for tonight
this trailer is based on your simple and the canoe carrier and i want to be able to put a 11'8" boat on top the boat is made out of 2 sheets of 1/4" plywood and should be about 50 pounds. Do you think the trailer could handle this?
[img]http://www.simplicityboats.com/P4210034_small.jpg[img]
heres a link to the boat
http://www.simplicityboats.com/summerbreezetemp.html

Thanks for all the help
Robert

[Leon]

Like the Little Guy's?

Yes, like their "Platform" models, also like the picture below:

[surveytech]

Wow, a 500 lb frame.
Now that is cool.

[angib]

Which do you thank is the best thing to do ?

Brick's plan to lengthen the tongue is the nicest - it will give the maximum strength for the minimum weight.

You need to find a matching tube section. You would need to cut out most of the second cross-member to get the tongue extension through, and take the tongue off to fully weld it. I could see your welder saying it would be easier just to fit a new tongue.

Reinforcing the second cross-member isn't as 'neat' a fix, but I think it would work just fine and should be easier/cheaper.

......about 50 pounds. Do you think the trailer could handle this?

No problem. You just need to make sure that you use decent structural joints between the floor and the roof. The front (vertical) roof panel, the galley bulkhead and the two sidewalls are the four sides of the box the boat will sit on and they all support each other. Remember that you are wanting to get the weight of the boat into the sidewalls (that will carry it down to the wheels) so if you're using wood cross rails to sit the boat on (like roof bars, but in wood) give them a strong connection to the sidewalls - for example by fitting the red cheek plates in the diagram below.



Andrew

[Dooner]

Hey Robert,
I've been away from the site for a while, so didn't ring in sooner.
I am the one that had the same problem with the single tube tongue. I just left it alone and went ahead with my build. I built the floor and walls, then laid it onto the frame. When I bolted the cabin down to the frame, I put a bolt on each side of the tongue at that second brace. It is fine now. There may be a slight flex, but it is holding great.
It is all up to you if you want to make it stronger with more bracing, but I think it would be fine to just bolt it to the floor as I did.
Good luck with your choice and the rest of the build.

[Dooner]

Oh, and I forgot to mention. It isn't that the angle iron crossmember is bending. It is that it is twisting. When I bolted it to the floor as far to the front of the bracket as possible, it keeps the angle iron from twisting. Between that and the extra help from a 3/4 ply floor, it works out great.
And tighten that bolt in the bracket and tongue.

[Kens]

I just looked under mine. Its bent down about 3/8 to 1/2". I am going to push it up with a jack and bolt thru to the wood cross frame and floor. Oh by the way its a TSC 4 x 8. With a 5 x 8 body.

[angib]

Excellent info, Dooner. An angle has very little torsional strength (resistance to twisting) compared to the various tube shapes.

It sounds like another 'reinforcement' would be to weld the tongue to the bracket, so that the tongue doesn't try to twist it. Of course the tongue is then non-removable.

Andrew

[Dooner]

Excellent info, Dooner. An angle has very little torsional strength (resistance to twisting) compared to the various tube shapes.

It sounds like another 'reinforcement' would be to weld the tongue to the bracket, so that the tongue doesn't try to twist it. Of course the tongue is then non-removable.

Andrew

Thanks Andrew,
When I first saw it, I freaked out, "MY FRAME IS BENT!". But after calming down then trying a few experiments with the weight on the tongue and then on the front of the frame, I saw the twisting.
You are right, it probably would be best and permenant if it was welded. I didn't opt for that because I wasn't sure if I would eventually put a propane bottle up front of the (so called) tongue box. This way, I just have to unbolt it and put in a longer tongue. Once I decide for sure which way I will go, I might go ahead and have it welded.
Another way would be to weld two braces from the second brace and the front of the frame, one on each side of the tongue. It should keep the brace from twisting and still allow the tongue to be removable.
I hope my info has helped out.