Rear 'stablizer/jacks'

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Postby A_J » Wed Aug 01, 2007 9:03 pm

I have had the swing down Attwood style stabilizers on a couple of trailers and don't care for them a bit. They always seem less than robust and seem to bind up when they fold after a while.

How about welding up a matching pair of automotive scissor jacks from a pic-n-pull type dismantler? That would work like a pair of the high end BAL stabilizers for a fraction of the cost. The added bonus would be that you could actually lift the trailer off the ground for changing a flat.
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Postby nikwax » Thu Aug 02, 2007 9:07 am

I've seen people do that and it seems like a good solution, as long as you can get the lift height that you're after.
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Postby Alphacarina » Thu Aug 02, 2007 9:17 am

The automotive jacks wouldn't give me the height I'm after, without using a block of wood on the ground. Also, the jacks would be very visible when stowed; looking at the tear from the rear. My experience with those trpe of jacks is that when extended all the way, they too are pretty flimsy. One thing they are for sure is HEAVY - I would guess twice as heavy as the Attwoods and I'm not looking to tow any extra weight around for a hundred thousand miles. I would rather bend up a set of the Attwoods every now and then and just replace them

The Attwoods come with a weight rating of 1,000 pounds and a jack handle. I'm 99% sure that between one rear stablizier and the tongue jack I can get a wheel off the ground to change a tire, so no problem there

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Postby caseydog » Thu Aug 02, 2007 9:20 am

nikwax wrote:If they are mounted "pointed" back, so they are at an angle pushing the trailer forward, how much force would it take to bend them? Seems like it would be hard to push the trailer back hard enough to overcome the jacks. Unless they are wimpy jacks.


What I'm suggesting would also counter side-to-side movement. Of course, front-to-back movement is more of an issue, since the wheels allow unlimited front-to-back movement.
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Postby jp03 » Thu Aug 02, 2007 9:31 am

casey dog, I agree with you and mounted my stalbilizers at 45 dgree on corners too. Will use front wheel jack to raise front to level the trailer, leaving it suspended on 3 point stand ! I welded simple uni strut channel to chasses, and then bolted up jacks with a small plate welded on the unistrut. Have to get some picture out here soon!
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Postby nikwax » Thu Aug 02, 2007 10:33 am

wouldn't you chock your wheels to prevent front to back movement?
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Postby bledsoe3 » Thu Aug 02, 2007 2:16 pm

It's hard to tell from these pictures, but I did mine at an angle as suggested.
http://www.tnttt.com/gallery/image.php?image_id=18848

http://www.tnttt.com/gallery/image.php?image_id=19100
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Postby Duane King » Fri Aug 03, 2007 12:52 am

I am coming to this thread really late. I had a Coleman tent trailer with 4 of these jacks mounted below the floor. In the folded up position, all of the jacks pointed toward the center of the trailer. It the down position, they worked in opposition to each other as has been suggested in this thread.

I put only two jacks on my tear and they are under the galley and parallel to each other. I wish I had put two more on the front. The tongue wheel jiggles a little bit and it would have been more stable with the additional jacks.
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Postby Alphacarina » Fri Aug 03, 2007 9:16 am

Duane King wrote:The tongue wheel jiggles a little bit and it would have been more stable with the additional jacks.
Do you really need a tongue wheel? If the tongue weight isn't great, is a wheel really needed to move it around?

I'm shooting for about 100 pounds on the hitch (10% of my total) and am not planning on using a wheel just for the reason you mentioned. I'm thinking maybe a flat plate for the jack foot with a short 3/8ths inch bolt welded in the center to serve as a 'spike' to penetrate the ground to give some resistance to movement

Whadda you think?

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Postby caseydog » Fri Aug 03, 2007 9:24 am

Has anyone tried a screw-type jack for rear corner mounting?

Example: http://shop.easternmarine.com/index.cfm ... goryID=195

These are strong enough to actually lift a TD, so you could level your camper on uneaven ground.

I'm curious as to whether something like this is feasible on a TD.
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Postby Dale M. » Fri Aug 03, 2007 10:07 am

If one is worried about front/back movement collapsing stabilizers, there is a really simple solution, WHEEL CHOCKS....

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Postby Ken A Hood » Fri Aug 03, 2007 10:20 am

I cheaped out and bought these stabilizers. I plan on getting a pipe and welding up pieces in the 4 corners so the stabilizers have a pocket to fit into (and won't slide out)

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Postby Duane King » Fri Aug 03, 2007 10:44 am

Dale M. wrote:If one is worried about front/back movement collapsing stabilizers, there is a really simple solution, WHEEL CHOCKS....

Dale


I do use wheel chocks. I also have a dish shaped chock for my tongue wheel. The kind of wobble I am referring to is subtle. It's not like an earthquake or anything. Even when immobilized, the tongue wheel shifts slightly at its axle and the trailer doesn't feel as rock solid as I would like.

As to the idea of no tongue wheel at all. 100lb of tongue weight would not be too much to lift easily when placing on a trailer ball, but if you are like me and you have to slide your trailer in and out of your garage all of the time, it will feel like a ton of weight. You would have to walk stooped over or lift the front of your trailer tongue up to about waist height. Depending on the geometry of your trailer, you could be scraping your galley across the pavement.

Perhaps one of those tongues jacks with a removable wheel that can be replaced with a pad would solve both issues. Or you could put jacks on the front of the trailer as well as the back. That's what I will do on my next trailer.

Actually, if you want to talk about a real problem. . .My tongue jack bolts on with four long bolts. No matter how hard I torque down on those bolts, the jack eventually starts working its way loose and I am left with a jack that no longer stands vertically. This is scratching my nice powder coated frame and keeping me from being a happy camper. The bolts don't go through holes in the tongue. Rather, there are two bolts above and two bolts below the frame. I think this is not a very good design. I should have had somebody weld a shaft onto the tongue that the jack could pivot on. . . Oh well, live and learn. :thinking:
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Postby Alphacarina » Fri Aug 03, 2007 11:21 am

Duane King wrote:Perhaps one of those tongues jacks with a removable wheel that can be replaced with a pad would solve both issues
My el cheapo ($25) tongue jack is like that - 1000 pounds capacity and it comes with nothing on the foot but is crossdrilled so you can use either a pad or a wheel with a quick pin to change from one to the other. I'll probably just weld my own foot on it since I don't see any need for a wheel in my future . . . . should help emininate any rattles

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Postby nikwax » Fri Aug 03, 2007 11:56 am

here are some aluminum stand jacks Camco 44560 at Amazon.


Also a tire doughnut
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