Frameless Trailer/Torsion Axle Mount

[brian_bp]

...Someone should make a torsion axle with an adjuster in the centre.

There really isn't anything inside the middle of the cross-trailer tube of a normal rubber torsion axle. You could cut a narrow-track one across the centre, slip both ends into a piece of square tubing sized to slide closely on the cross tube, then drill and bolt at the required width. The bolted-on "splice" tube would align the two sides.

This would not be as light, stiff, or reliably straight as the original one-piece, but it would be adjustable, and it might be lighter, stiffer, and straighter than two individually installed sides. With care in the bolting design, it might be okay.

It would be like the "universal" or "adjustable" hitch receivers sold for trucks. I wouldn't use one of those if I could avoid it, either...

[Arne]

The center of the axle get the least pressure, as it has the greatest moment/leverage... I could even see cutting the axle and just tying the split ends together with a piece of angle iron on the front and back side and bolted.... though welding would be better.

The most twisting pressure on the axle would be at the mounting point at the side wall of the tear... the least would be in the middle of the axle.

Put a pen on the side of the desk, with half hanging over the edge.. press on the pen at the point where it meets the desk and on the outer edge.. as you move your finger back from the edge of the desk, you will see it is much easier to keep from pressing the out half down... same with an axle.

[angib]

Even though I was 'brought up' on half-axles as they're the only sort of suspension we use on small trailers in Yurp, I think I would pick a full axle as a better choice for most jobs. It's certainly less work and probably less risk.

The one advantage of half-axles is that you get to use the cross-member as part of the frame - a full axle contributes nothing to the frame, it just holds the wheels up.

Andrew

[brian_bp]

The one advantage of half-axles is that you get to use the cross-member as part of the frame - a full axle contributes nothing to the frame, it just holds the wheels up.

In a rare event, I disagree with Andrew... assuming that "full" axle in this case means a complete assembly of two trailing arm suspensions mounted on a common full-width tube. The "full" rubber torsion axle, whether bolted or welded to the rest of the structure, is still part of the structure. Think of it like a removable front crossmember in a car.

The best arrangment, in my opinion, would be to use the Flexiride components, but not buy the complete assemblies. Instead, build your frame (any width you want) with a crossmember sized to fit the Flexiride cartridges and open on the ends. That crossmember can be bent down in the middle (like some boat trailers do to clear the keel), or even interrupted. The cartridges then mount in that crossmember to form an integrated frame and suspension structure.