Converting trailer from folding to rigid

[Caradoc]

OK. I've got my 5x8 folding Red Trailer. My other projects are done (mostly), and I'm ready to finally get going on my own teardrop. I've put the trailer together according to manufacturer's directions. It works great, however, I still want to get it to the DMV before I chop it up again.

I've read all of the threads about the need to move the axle back. I've read all of the threads about hanging the axle above or below the springs. I've got the Generic Benroy plans almost memorized. But I'm missing something. I see a wooden center stud in many people's pictures, and how do you convert the trailer from folding to rigid?

I searched for two nights trying to answer this question. The Benroy plans show the center beam, and Mary K's pictures also show that center beam. Lots of discussion on moving the axle. Despite all of my reading, I missed the key sentence.

To make this very clear: "Instead of being fitted in their intended place, the two cross members from the centre of the trailer are fitted longitudinally, inside the main side rails. One inside each siderail. This converts the folding trailer into a rigid trailer. Install a pine cross member in place of the channel cross members." [Generic Benroy Plans]

How did I miss this? It was in the plans and a couple of discussions. But I did, and I thought I'd write this down with a very clear subject header, just in case there are dense people like me.

After finally digesting this, it's all clear now. It will be rigid, and it will still be strong. In fact, I can even stretch it out a foot or so (I'm 6'5"). However, that means I've got to find 4x10 plywood walls, instead of the 4x8 plywood I just bought at HD. Does anybody know a decent lumber yard in Reno?

I'm excited to really get started.

--Lance

[rbeemer]

Lance,
How are you finishing your tear. Are you building insulated wall? If you are painting or siding(aluminum), I would not worry about the fitting 2 peices of plywood for the sides because you can spline the plywood together and fiberglass and epoxy the joint and no one will know. If you are building insulated wall you can have them butt jointed on a wall stud, patch the wall and you are good to go

[Caradoc]

If you are painting or siding(aluminum), I would not worry about the fitting 2 peices of plywood for the sides because you can spline the plywood together and fiberglass and epoxy the joint and no one will know.

Hmm, that's a thought. I'm planning to paint it when I'm done, and jointing it together might work. I did a search of splining, and I found a couple different examples of jointing a wall together. One even did it with biscuits (I got a biscuit jointer a couple months back and have been using it for all kinds of things.)

--Lance
Sparks, NV (I go camping because there aren't any trees around where I live. :)

[doug hodder]

Lance...if you don't have a router with a 3 wing cutter head for it...just adjust the biscuit cutter to the thickness and depth...push it against the straight edge, and draw it full length.....you got a slot for a spline to join 2 sheets of ply...I've cheated and gotten away with this before...just make sure you don't do it so the blade wants to walk towards you...Doug

[toypusher]

Lance,

If you don't want to use the wood crossmember, I belive that Red Trailer sells the crossmembers individually also.

If you want a solid wood side, then you could look into Okume, it is usually sold in larger sizes, but you may not be able to find it locally.

[Mary K]

To make this very clear: "Instead of being fitted in their intended place, the two cross members from the centre of the trailer are fitted longitudinally, inside the main side rails. One inside each siderail. This converts the folding trailer into a rigid trailer. Install a pine cross member in place of the channel cross members." [Generic Benroy Plans]

Yup, I didn't get it at first either until I started to put the trailer together and understood all the pieces and parts and studying TomS's build link. http://www.tomswenson.com/teardrop/ It's been a very handy reference for my build.

So, you are thinking of cutting the side rails and making it longer using the (relocated) cross members? Hum...

Mk

[Miriam C.]

First, once you put the floor on the trailer it isn't going to fold up. Second using the cross members to extend is an excelent idea. Just be careful you don't have your axle back too far if you move it. Depends on where you extend the trailer.

Have fun.

[toypusher]

First, once you put the floor on the trailer it isn't going to fold up. .........................

Have fun.

IMHO it is better to make it ridgid before putting anything on it.

There are extra parts to deal with when it is assembled as a foldup and you end up with double crossmembers in the middle. Excess weight that you don't need too.

[Caradoc]

I'll be extending the length by simply inserting the crossmembers and leaving a 1ft gap between the two existing rails. After bolting, it should still be very strong, as there will still be 1.5ft of crossmember inside of the existing rails. I don't have a problem with a pine spar or two for stability, and I've still to relocate the axle, so I'll have to look up the offset of the axle with a 9' trailer.

I think the splining of the side panels will work. I can use the biscuit jointer to cut a long slot, then rip some hardwood to fit. I'll take some pictures of all of this as I go, and post them a bit later.

I want to get going, but before I tear the trailer apart again, I want to take it to the DMV to get licensed. I figured it's easier to do it now as it's still in its stock form, rather than explain all of the changes I've made.

--Lance

[toypusher]

..............I want to get going, but before I tear the trailer apart again, I want to take it to the DMV to get licensed. I figured it's easier to do it now as it's still in its stock form, rather than explain all of the changes I've made.

--Lance

That's what I did with my HF folding trailer. I think it's the best choice. Just a word to the wise, I had to put a 'deck' on mine to get it inspected for the registration. I just bolted a 4'x8'x1/2" piece of plywood on top.

[donkro]

I also just took delivery on my 5x8 folding red trailer. After reading this thread and others, is it really necessary to do anything to the trailer to make it rigid? Is it loose or something when put together properly? I would think that after bolting the floor down the trailer should be pretty rigid. Has anyone just used the stock folding trailer with no mods and had any problems with it?

[doug hodder]

Just as a safety measure, on a bolt up frame, in addition to the lock washers provided. I'd red loc-tite them also. Bolts do have a way of loosening up and may be a hassle to tighten them up down the road...A drop of red loc-tite might help in the long run...cheap insurance... Doug

[Caradoc]

After reading this thread and others, is it really necessary to do anything to the trailer to make it rigid? Is it loose or something when put together properly? I would think that after bolting the floor down the trailer should be pretty rigid. Has anyone just used the stock folding trailer with no mods and had any problems with it?

If you were to use the trailer as is, it probably would work for your teardrop. It's a folding trailer, but the hinge is right over the axle, and the axel and your teardrop will put pressure on both sides of the hinge.

However, if you were to move the axle back a bit, as seems to be generally recommended, you've got to do something to stiffen the frame. Without the axle being right under the hinge, it's going to want to keep folding, even when empty.

Will the teardrop carcass be enough to keep it from folding on itself? Maybe. But why worry about this when you've got two nice pieces of metal in the center crossmembers that fit perfectly in the siderails and make it all very rigid.

I just did it all this afternoon, and it wasn't really that hard. I got a new 7/16 drill bit, and I was able to drill new holes without much effort. There were several extra bolts available for this, especially if you don't put in the little pockets for the 2x4 side rails. I should take Doug's advice about the Loctite. Pictures will be soon.

--Lance

[Caradoc]

Pictures will be soon.

Here's my first attempt to post pictures. Unfortuately, red on red doesn't show up as well as I'd hoped.



The crossmember is placed inside of the existing siderails. I didn't cut it at all, which makes the new length of my trailer 9' 2". I drilled a couple of holes with a 7/16 bit. More holes will be coming later.



Since I had the axle mountings off to move them back, I cut the little brackets for the little wheels off with an abrasive blade in my circular saw, then used a Dremel to round off the edges.



2x4s were notched out as new crossmembers. I've still to drill holes in the side and put lag bolts in to secure them.



Ta Da. The axle is remounted, and things are looking up.



This is 1/2" birch plywood, and I'm going to bolt this right to the frame. Laying down on this seems pretty ridgid.



But first, I've got to glue these together first. I used a biscuit jointer and a bunch of biscuits in the two joints. It's gluing up now, and I'll see if this all worked when I check it tomorrow. I may use this as an opportunity to try out my newly aquired epoxy skills (obtained elsewhere on this board), and maybe a little bit of fiberglass to seal up the bottom.

--Lance

[Sparksalot]

Despite all of my reading, I missed the key sentence.

To make this very clear: "Instead of being fitted in their intended place, the two cross members from the centre of the trailer are fitted longitudinally, inside the main side rails. One inside each siderail. This converts the folding trailer into a rigid trailer. Install a pine cross member in place of the channel cross members." [Generic Benroy Plans]

Took me a while to catch that myself.