How do I get at the inside set of bearings on a HF 1740#?

[Thunderknight]

I am assembling my 1740# (heavy duty) trailer from Harbor Freight. I pulled the dust cap and outside bearing out of each hub and then I see there is another bearing on the inner side of each hub. How do I get it out to clean and pack it? Do I have to remove that rubber-like seal on the inside of the hub? If so, how? The manual says nothing about 2 sets of bearings per hub, it only shows and talks about one. Of course, the manual is wrong in a few areas (diagrams backwards, wrong size bolts, bolt counts that don't match the picture, etc). I also had to go to Lowes to get another M10x30mm bolt and a few M10 nuts, as they shorted me.

I don't think my 8" tire HF trailer that I built last year had 2 bearing sets per side, just one.

And now I found when I went to clean my axle ends and castle nuts, it came with the threads all dinged up on one end. I can, with much work, get the castle nut on and off, but I think they stripped it putting it on at the factory. I wonder if I call them if they would send me a new axle.

Thanks

[Alphacarina]

If you put a piece of wood though from the outside (after you ave removed the outside bearing) and then tap on the inside bearing, it will pop the grease seal out (the rubber-like seal you mentioned) and the inner bearing will fall out - Have a piece of cardboard under there because it's MESSY!

Don

[madjack]

...and be prepared to buy a new set of seals when you inadvertently destroy them...all hubs...that I have ever seen, had inner and outer bearings...
madjack

[Thunderknight]

So I need to buy a NEW set of seals for the BRAND NEW hub?

I don't understand, the HF hubs come assembled, even with the wheel attached, yet the instructions tell you to clean all the parts and grease them...which involves removing the grease that is on there. And I have to buy new seals? That seems kind of screwy.

[Endo]

So I need to buy a NEW set of seals for the BRAND NEW hub?

I don't understand, the HF hubs come assembled, even with the wheel attached, yet the instructions tell you to clean all the parts and grease them...which involves removing the grease that is on there. And I have to buy new seals? That seems kind of screwy.

You MAY need a new inner seal if it gets messed up while removing it. I also do the same thing. I use a piece of wood (dowel rod) and drive out the inner bearing and seal. If it is not damaged reuse it.

As far as your axle is concerned HF is pretty good at replacing damaged parts (provided you purchased the trailer recently). I had a damaged fender. All it took was one phone call and a new one was shipped to me for free.

[madjack]

...the problem is that the seal are relatively delicate and easy to destroy while removing them...this is not quite so bad on a new set...take your time and remove them carefully using the techniques already desribed and you will PROBABLY be OK...if you destroy them, you may havvta getta new set from HF since they are an odd sized metric...I believe Steve Tripp has the part #s for them in the sticky in the trailer and chassis section.......
madjack

[Nitetimes]

The main thing to watch out for when re-using seals is how they fit when you put them back in, (provided you didn't screw em up when you knocked them out). Keep in mind that they are a compression fit and depending on how they were installed the first time they may not be tight enough to stay in when you put them back. If you don't have to work at it a bit getting them in chances are good they could come out going down the road. If that happens you best hope it's not raining or dusty cause the bearings will be short lived.

[del]

A trick that was taught to me is. After removing the outer nut and bearing, reinstall the nut (outer bearing left out). It should be small enough to fit through the races, but too large to fit through the bearing. A few sharp pulls and the seal, bearing, and nut will be left on the spindle. Disclaimer; I have used this many times on front spindles of rear wheel drive cars, but never on a trailer. Note the sharp pulls are like a slide hammer, just with about an inch of slide. Hope this helps.

del

[Alphacarina]

Usually, you can tap the bearing out without doing irrepairable harm to the grease seal

But if you do, there are numbers stamped into the metal part of the seal which tell the inner and outer diameters - If you take your old seal to a NAPA store, I'll bet they can match it for you and get you a new pair for $3 to $4

Don

[Nobody]

Usually, you can tap the bearing out without doing irrepairable harm to the grease seal

But if you do, there are numbers stamped into the metal part of the seal which tell the inner and outer diameters - If you take your old seal to a NAPA store, I'll bet they can match it for you and get you a new pair for $3 to $4

Don

Yep, that's usually the case but, my HF 1800# trailer had no ID #'s of any kind on the seals. Had to measure the inner/outer diameters & the thickness (important!) & call my son (he has a NAPA store) & give him the dimensions. He was able to get 'em but had to call the warehouse, didn't have 'em in stock at the store. My hubs took the 32x52x8mm seals. The bearings and races did have #'s on 'em & they were a direct cross reference to items he had in stock.

If you have the seals out anyway, I'd clean the hub well where the seal goes, & the spindle where the seal rides, & measure each place with a good digital caliper (metric if possible). Latest info I have is the HF trailers may be mfg'd in China, Romania, or elsewhere, & dimensions may not even be close between different mfg locations . I've seen info on here that the HF 1800# trailer uses 30x52x7mm seals but mine required the 32mm inner diameter, I couldn't even force the 30mm seal onto the spindle without severe malformation

[Alphacarina]

That's what we get for buying the 'made in China' products, Harvey - Repair parts can be . . . . a challenge

Don

[bobhenry]

Posted: Mon May 07, 2007 6:55 am Post subject: a replay of some old info !

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Harbor freight ships the tire and rim already mounter to the hub.
The hub cap you are refering to is the dust cap or dust cover that protects you inner and outer bearing from abrasive dust. If as stated you can't get a screwdriver and a twist of a wrist to dislodge the dust cap go get a socket wrench extention or even a 3/4 inch wood dowl turn the tire around and drive off the dust cap from the inside by running the dowel thru the center hole of the bearing and tap gently with a hammer. The outer bearing will fall out easily the inner bearing is held in by the grease seal. To easily remove the inner bearing put the castle nut on the axle now hook the tire hub assembly on the axle give a sharp pull as you slide the inner bearing on the axle shaft the nut will drag the bearing and seal out. It may take a couple trys and you may have to turn the tire a half turn but it will come. As above clean and dry bearing and repack both bearings. Put a golfball size blob of axle grease in the palm of your hand and press the bearing into it your are trying to shove the grease thru the rollers from one side to the other you will have to rotate the bearing and may have to load from both sides. Put a little extra in the hub but do not pack it full. Reinstall the back bearing and tap in the seal working around and around inserting it a little at a time. Slide your hub assembly onto the axle , insert the front bearing and the large flat washer and next the nut tighten and spin the wheel tighten and spin repeat until the spin seems stiff or slow now back off the nut until the wheel spins free again usually 1/8 of a turn or less. VERY IMPORTANT install the cotter pin and spred right and left until your dust cover can be reinstalled. Tap it gently with a rubber malet or small piece of wood you can destroy it with a hammer so be careful if you must use a hammer try the handle to get it started then seat by driving on the ridge near the seat with a old flat blade screwdriver. As stated although the rim is installed to the hub the lugs are not tight so tighten and drive and tighten again after 15 or 20 miles. You should now be good for 8000 - 10000 miles or a year without further worries.
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[Arne]

Bearings and seals are universal... I think the seal is 7mm wide, but can not recall for sure..... bring the old one in and you should be able to get a match at a bearing place..

The bearings are no problem.. there is a universal number etched into it. i was able to get them at a bearing supplier. you do not have to go to h/f to get them.

[SmokeyBob]

To keep from beating the crap out of your dust cap, try this home made tool made from plumbing pipe.