Advice on Chassis reconstruction - Star Craft Popup chassis

[Geron]

OK, Here's my chassis/frame.



Here's Brick's Photo shopped image of removing crossmembers to put a dropped floor either in the front or back. (I'm keeping both options open in the planning stage)

Thanks for the photo shopped photo, Brick.



My question to all the chassis Guru's
Can I remove those crossmembers w/o affecting structural integrity.
Remember, I'd only be removing EITHER the front ones or back ones, not both.
Geron,

Oh, Brick, Thanks for cleaning up my floor as well

[bobhenry]

The front members are helping to resist the twist that the tongue is placing on the very front member as weight is added. If its a light build you might do without them but I personally would opt to remove the rear members. That opening in the rear begs to become shallow storage under the floor or an area for a water tank and battery storage you could call it a utility closet.

[Alphacarina]

While I'm certainly no expert, I would't see any structural problems posed by removing the cross members at either location, assuming you're building a rigid structure on top of the frame

I wouldn't hesitate to do either one if it was my build

Don

[angib]

Yeah, I also say chop away the front ones if you want - they don't add much strength and whatever body you put on will have waay more strength than the pop-up. Most of those frame members are there because it's cheaper to add them than use thick plywood for the floor.

Andrew

[Geron]

The floor was 3/4" Wafer board/OSB/

But I was impressed with it (the OSB that is). The Popup was built in 1985/86 and the OSB was solid as a rock except around the edges where there was some water damage. There it was sawdust.

Thanks for the advice. On with the planning stage/drawing board.

HOWEVER, having demolished this one, If I have the opportunity, when I meet one coming down the road, I'm gonna pull over and get out of the way. :whistle:

Geron

[2old2tent]

Geron
Good grab on that Starcraft trailer.
Mine had a member running across about 6" in front of the crossmember before the wheels (if that makes any since). My Starcraft was probably late 60's.
I cut it free and moved it forward to give me a 24" footwell (dropped floor). It was only tacked on in it's original position. I welded it more securely and trimmed down the tunnel that ran back to it from the front cross member (the cables traveled in the tunnel).
When I was finished, using the shake test, very scientific, I stood on a corner and bounced up and down, it was more rigid after moving than before.
My footwell runs side to side starting at about the point that the tongue a-frame intersects the perimeter frame, it is 24" front to back. The two of us can walk in, pass each other and move around freely.

I'd say go for it.

Jack

[Geron]

Geron
Good grab on that Starcraft trailer.
Mine had a member running across about 6" in front of the crossmember before the wheels (if that makes any since). My Starcraft was probably late 60's.
I cut it free and moved it forward to give me a 24" footwell (dropped floor). It was only tacked on in it's original position. I welded it more securely and trimmed down the tunnel that ran back to it from the front cross member (the cables traveled in the tunnel).
When I was finished, using the shake test, very scientific, I stood on a corner and bounced up and down, it was more rigid after moving than before.
My footwell runs side to side starting at about the point that the tongue a-frame intersects the perimeter frame, it is 24" front to back. The two of us can walk in, pass each other and move around freely.

I'd say go for it.

Jack

Makes perfect sense. I checked out your album also. Thanks for the input. Think I'm ready to chop -- when I catch a break here.

Geron

[Gerdo]

Chop it up! Look at how little a HF frame has, no disrespect intended. They are very floppy without a floor. The TD body will make it verry rigid. I wouldn't cut any bracing that holds the axle ot tongue. I would probably take out the two center ones by the axle and the two holding the bumper and the bumper. I don't know your design maybe the the TD body extends to the bumper. I would not want to lean over a bumper.

[Geron]

Right, the bumper will have to disappear one way or the other. Depends on whether I go for 9' or 10' length. 10' would cover the bumper -- 9' the bumper would have to go.

g

[2old2tent]

Mine was 10' to begin with. That doesn't sound like bragging does it?

I removed my bumper and brackets. If I put it back on I'll tuck it up tight to the rear frame rail.

[Nitetimes]

OK, Here's my chassis/frame.



My question to all the chassis Guru's
Can I remove those crossmembers w/o affecting structural integrity.
Remember, I'd only be removing EITHER the front ones or back ones, not both.
Geron,

Cut them out on both ends and lose the weight. Nothing to be hurt from losing those X-members, you won't hurt the integrity of that frame. If you are planning on building a frame under the floor rather than just laying the floor on the steel frame lose the outside members too, it'll just retain un-necessary weight.