HF trailer--ready to mount wheels: Now What

[James Hickox]

Hello All,
I am now ready to mount the wheels on my HF trailer. The instructions say to pull off the cap, remove the bearings, clean everything, grease and reassimble.

Isn't there a second set of bearings in the hub? If so, how do I get to them?

What kinds of solvents can be used? When I was a kit, it was gasoline. What is the better alternative now.

Thanks foe the replies. Will post pictures once I strart building something worth looking at.

James Hickox in Abilene, TX

[madjack]

James, there are indeed, 2 sets of bearings...inner and outer...removing the inner bearings can be tricky since it requires the removal of the inner grease seal...this seal is easily damaged and if damaged, it will havvta be replaced...it is an oddball metric size and may not be easily found

...2 of the easier ways to proceed...

1)...after removing the outer bearings, put the castle nut back on and see if it will go into the hub, past the bearing race
...if so pull the whole hub off and the inner bearing and seal should be left hanging on the spindle
...remove castle nut, bearing and seal and clean bearing(I still use gas)...repack bearing and carefully reassemble bearing and seal in hub, replace on spindle
2)...if castle nut will not fit, remove hub
...bearing and seal will still be in the hub
...use an appropriately sized wooden dowel or a drift pin(preferably brass/bronze) to carefully, punch out bearing/seal from the inside out
...DO NOT use a screwdriver to pry the seal out from the back, as this will probably destoy/damage the seal
...after bearings are removed clean/repack/reassemble
...GOOD LUCK and BE CAREFUL......
madjack

[Gerdo]

There are inner and outer bearings. Yes you do need to grease both on both sides. If not, catastrophic failure, probably on the highway when you are doing 70.

[Alphacarina]

My HF 1740 came with the same instructions - Disassemble, clean everything in solvent, repack the bearings using a 'bearing packer' and then reassemble

But, my hubs came already pre-packed with new grease. The caps are on the outside bearing and the inside hole is covered with greasepaper and the hub is full of new grease

Honestly, I see little need to clean and repack these bearings and unless you have a bearing packer or you are very familiar with properly repacking a dry bearing by hand with new grease, I think you may be worse off cleaning them in solvent that you would be if you just installed everything as it comes from HF

This all assumes that your hubs came clean and packed with grease as mine did - If they are dry, then you certainly need to clean and pack them . . . . but what's the point of cleaning new grease out of a properly packed bearing just to replace it, especially if you don't have access to a bearing packer

Don

[Gerdo]

I personaly would not trust that the bearings are well greased and properly adjusted unless you did it your self or had someone do it for you!

[madjack]

I personaly would not trust that the bearings are well greased and properly adjusted unless you did it your self or had someone do it for you!

Dittos on that...I have seen many a new axle(no referrence to HF) have only a minimal spit of grease on the bearings and need to be repacked...I also repack by hand to make sure everything is full of grease.......
madjack

[Gerdo]

With all this talk it reminds me that I should check my bearings. I need to before my next big trip in a couple of weeks.

[bobhenry]

My HF came with a thin coating of a waxy grease that was I am sure more for rustproofing than lubrication. Clean them thoroughly and repack them.
You don't need a bearing packer or any other new fangled toys. Simply take a golf ball size ball of freash clean axle grease and press the bearing into it forcing the grease into the ball of your hand. Rotate the bearing and continue turn the bearing over and continue you will actually see it extrude thru the rollers if you are doing it correctly. Leave a golf ball sized blob in the hub after packing both bearings. DO NOT try and fill the hub with grease.

[bobhenry]

I found an old post of mine that had a little more info in it ......

Harbor freight ships the tire and rim already mounter to the hub.
The hub cap you are refering to is the dust cap or dust cover that protects you inner and outer bearing from abrasive dust. If as stated you can't get a screwdriver and a twist of a wrist to dislodge the dust cap go get a socket wrench extention or even a 3/4 inch wood dowl turn the tire around and drive off the dust cap from the inside by running the dowel thru the center hole of the bearing and tap gently with a hammer. The outer bearing will fall out easily the inner bearing is held in by the grease seal. To easily remove the inner bearing put the castle nut on the axle now hook the tire hub assembly on the axle give a sharp pull as you slide the inner bearing on the axle shaft the nut will drag the bearing and seal out. It may take a couple trys and you may have to turn the tire a half turn but it will come. As above clean and dry bearing and repack both bearings. Put a golfball size blob of axle grease in the palm of your hand and press the bearing into it your are trying to shove the grease thru the rollers from one side to the other you will have to rotate the bearing and may have to load from both sides. Put a little extra in the hub but do not pack it full. Reinstall the back bearing and tap in the seal working around and around inserting it a little at a time. Slide your hub assembly onto the axle , insert the front bearing and the large flat washer and next the nut tighten and spin the wheel tighten and spin repeat until the spin seems stiff or slow now back off the nut until the wheel spins free again usually 1/8 of a turn or less. VERY IMPORTANT install the cotter pin and spred right and left until your dust cover can be reinstalled. Tap it gently with a rubber malet or small piece of wood you can destroy it with a hammer so be careful if you must use a hammer try the handle to get it started then seat by driving on the ridge near the seat with a old flat blade screwdriver. As stated although the rim is installed to the hub the lugs are not tight so tighten and drive and tighten again after 15 or 20 miles. You should now be good for 8000 - 10000 miles or a year without further worries.
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