rear axle idea

[TD4FREEW/CTD]

has anyone ever thought about using a solid rear axle from a later model (80-90's) FWD car or van?

they are usually pretty straight forward and simple(i think) , and they already come with brakes. i bet you could could find em like cow poo at a dairy farm in them pick yer parts and U pull it junkyards of the world.

[madjack]

TD4, the possibility has been discussed several time before...some folks seemed gung ho to do it BUT I really don't know of anyone who has...there would havvta be a fair amount of modding to fit it and the brakes would be hydraulic...in the end, it would be hard to beat a 125 bucks for a standard spring type axle........
madjack

[brian_bp]

TD4, the possibility has been discussed several time before...some folks seemed gung ho to do it BUT I really don't know of anyone who has...there would havvta be a fair amount of modding to fit it...

Not necessarily: many of them mount at only two bushings, plus the springs and shocks. If the mounting points at a reasonable spacing, it should be no big deal. Other more complex designs, of course, would be a challenge. It's likely practical only for a custom frame build.

I haven't done it, either.

... and the brakes would be hydraulic...in the end, it would be hard to beat a 125 bucks for a standard spring type axle........
madjack

Pick one: either
no brakes (no problem to use the car axle); or,
with brakes (not just $125 for the trailer axle).

I agree that hydraulic is the only practical brake option, and that would certainly cost more than electric, due to the surge-activated coupler or electric-over-hydraulic converter required. The coupler could cost as much as the axle, and the converter is much more than that.

[brian_bp]

has anyone ever thought about using a solid rear axle from a later model (80-90's) FWD car or van?

A leaf-spring drop-beam axle would be the same as a conventional trailer... and Chrysler minivans are about the only choice in this category.

There are lots of beam axle designs with coil springs, which usually mount at two bushings at the front of their integrated control arms (like front leaf spring mounts), plus some sort of bracket for a Panhard (lateral control) rod, plus the shocks (like a trailer) and springs (instead of rear leaf mounts).

Another option is the integrated trailing arm designs, such as the first three generations of VW Golf/Rabbit, and current Toyota Sienna, Corolla, etc. In these, you've got just the two arm bushings, the spring mounts, and the shocks - and the springs and shocks are often combined in a coil-over shock.

I suppose picking the right donor car to get the desired track width and load capacity without excess weight would be the first challenge. Next, floor height and packaging, because these have large (by teardrop standards) wheels and maybe work with a higher floor than you might want.

If the right combination can be found, I think it would work well. If the only purpose is to save money, I doubt that it's worthwhile.

[madjack]

Brian...that was my point...have folks thought about this...yes, can it be done...yes, has anyone done it...maybe, is this a worthwhile alternative...I personally don't think so, for all the reasons you and I mentioned above...........
madjack

[TD4FREEW/CTD]

one reason is i would like to utilize a wheel that is closer to that of a full size vehicle, and i want decent ground clearance, as this trailer will most likely be off road.

[SteveH]

one reason is i would like to utilize a wheel that is closer to that of a full size vehicle, and i want decent ground clearance, as this trailer will most likely be off road.

My trailer is built with one of the comercially built tortion trailer axles (don't remember which brand), and I use 15" Jeep wheels on it. Don't know how much more "full size" you could get.

[George Kraus]

I know of a family that had a maple syrup making business. They would tow a large tank trailer into the field with their tractor. The trailer was built on a 3/4 ton chevy rear axle, a drive line went from the trailer to a transmission mounted on the tongue. When ever they got the rig stuck they hooked a drive line from the pto on the tractor to the transmission. They actually had times when the trailer pulled the tractor out. OK you Off-Road guys, how are you going to power that second transmission? Food for thought.



George

[TD4FREEW/CTD]

I'm thinking i wans the frame at least 18" above the ground. does that sound unreasonable? the tow rig is a 4x4 3/4 ton truck which is kinda high to begin with.

[Steve F]

I'm running 15" Jeep wheels with 31" tyres and an axle that is 45mm thick along with offroad springs and have almost 24" of clearance under the frame, the a-frame is a little lower but only by about 3"




Here you can see the axle


My tow rig is a Jeep Cherokee with about the same amount of clearance under the sills as the trailer.

Cheers
Steve

[brian_bp]

I know of a family that had a maple syrup making business. They would tow a large tank trailer into the field with their tractor. The trailer was built on a 3/4 ton chevy rear axle, a drive line went from the trailer to a transmission mounted on the tongue. When ever they got the rig stuck they hooked a drive line from the pto on the tractor to the transmission. They actually had times when the trailer pulled the tractor out. OK you Off-Road guys, how are you going to power that second transmission? Food for thought.



George

Very cool!

Long ago there was a trailer for British army Land Rovers which was similarly driven. A maintenance nightmare, but functional. In that one, the trailer tow coupling was also the driveshaft coupling. I think it was functional any time the Land Rover transfer case was in low range.

[Alphacarina]

one reason is i would like to utilize a wheel that is closer to that of a full size vehicle, and i want decent ground clearance, as this trailer will most likely be off road.

A torsion axle assembly would get you even more ground clearance than a beam axle from under a mini-van - Some torsion axles come with adjustable arms so you can easily change the ride height

If you buy an axle with 5 by 4.5 inch hubs, you can fit many car whels to it - Even FWD style wheels if you use a 1.5 or 2 inch spacer. My Mazda uses that bolt pattern and a 2 inch spacer bought my FWD wheels back into the centerline on the axle

Don

[angib]

Long ago there was a trailer for British army Land Rovers which was similarly driven.

Here is an article on the powered Land Rover trailer with a fair bit of detail on the drive mechanism and coupling.



The interesting question is what happens if the trailer bounces in the air - doesn't torque reaction from the driveshaft try to turn it over?

Andrew

[Trackstriper]

Andrew wrote:

"The interesting question is what happens if the trailer bounces in the air - doesn't torque reaction from the driveshaft try to turn it over?"

Nope, think not. Let's assume the trailer is moving at 20mph and hits a good sized bump, which previously didn't launch the tug...or maybe it did...no matter. The wheels are turning at a rate appropriate for 20mph, the trailer axle being driven by the tug. Up goes the trailer and the tug is now still trying to turn the wheels for 20mph while in the air. The trailer wheels are neither speeding up or slowing down. No torque required short of insignificant bearing and differential gear friction losses. Hope I got this one right.

J.B.

[Alphacarina]

Sounds correct to me . . . .

Don