How to prep and paint the frame?

[Esteban]

I've looked for threads about how to paint the frame to protect it and have not found them. I remember reading discussions about different paints, primers, and application techniques people here have used with pros and cons for them. My welder completed my frame. Now I need to clean it and give it a good long lasting rust inhibiting coat of black paint.

Some questions I have are how do I clean the rust, there's not very much, oils, and welding scale off the metal?

What primer is good/best to use?

What paints are good enough?

What paints/primers are the most rust inhibiting and longest lasting?

Once the trailer is built only the A-frame tongue will be visible. The rest will be covered except the underside.

I'll probably use a brush and/or a rattle can to apply the primer and paint.

I wish there was a sticky for this.

[bdosborn]

Here's a discussion I had bookmarked:

http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=11575

Bruce

[Esteban]

Thanks Bruce. I think I'll try out Rust Bullet. Then paint the frame black.

[Ralf]

POR 15 is like rust bullit. Most auto paint stores in these parts carry it. Slap it on with a cheep brush. Wipe the frame down 1st with mineral spirits. It's expensive but you only need a pint. It won't keep long when opened. If you buy a quart have them give you a clean pint can and transfer 1//2 for latter use. I painted mine yesterday and painted a truck frame last month. Slap it on, when it dries it will look like it has been sprayed.

[Esteban]

From what I read Por 15 and Rust Bullet each seem to do about as good a job. I Googled Rust Bullet and it seems to require less exacting prep work than Por 15. From what I read if Por 15 prep isn't done right, with special cleansers, it can begin to rust through and sometimes peel off. I've very much a noob about this subject with no prior experience.

I figure one quart of Rust Bullet will be enough to paint my 5'x10' frame with two coats as recommended. Then I'll paint it black. Not sure if I'll use Rust Bullet black or some rattle can black for the final finish. Leaning toward using Rust Bullet black to stick with one manufacturers system...though it'll be pricey to do it that way.

[Chicken Legs]

From my experience POR 15 works great. Its best applied to bare metal. If you are after the best of what you can get to cure and seal metal then the way to go would be to have the frame sand blasted by a local machine shop, etc. Then you can apply the POR 15 by brush directly to the metal. If using the product use gloves, because contact with the skin and its there till you wear it off. Ive found that acetone will remove it unless dried. Also POR 15 doesnt bond with the slightest of moisture so you want to make sure the frame is dry. You can test it with a propane torch, if moisture is present the flame will dissipate it, then your ready for the finish. Also POR15 is not recommended is a top coat in direct sunlight, as it wont withstand UV rays (product recommendation), however I have used it and with good results in direct light. Im thinking that the shiny finish may dull with the UV rays, but I havent had that effect yet. POR also has some nice two part epoxy based paints that are avaliable in different colors and can be brushed on. I painted a boat trailer and the finish is high gloss and cleans easily. However the cost of such paints arent cheap. Good luck.

[madjack]

..our technique for painting "new" steel.........1) wipe down frame with solvent of choice...2) wash frame with DAWN detergent...3) scuff with a red 3M pad to get the rust scale off...4) dust off rust scale powder with a clean rag...5) prime with an acid etch primer, you do not need a solid coat, just make sure everything gets some of theprimer...6) paint(3coats w20min between coats) with an industrial black(or?) available from NAPA, and many auto parts or paint supply house...I have used this method on several trailer frames over the years with excellent results...costs...rattle can of acid etch primer...12-15 bucks at an auto paint supply house...gallon of industrial black from NAPA...less than 25 bucks and you will have enough paint for 2r3 trailer frames..........
madjack

p.s. you can also combine 1,2,3(basically ) by washing with DAWN and using a red scuff pad as your wash rag...wipe excessive water off and allow to sit in sun for a couple of hours for drying........MJ

[asianflava]

Madjack's step 1 is probably the most important. When I worked at a mil spec paint shop, we wiped down everything that came in. The aluminum pieces were wiped down with laquer thinner. Some of the steel parts were soaked in laquer thinner. We had a special solvent for plastics.

For my frame, I wiped it with laquer thinner until the rags came clean. I painted it with Rust Bullet using a small diameter roller and pan. And yes, do not get it on you, it has to wear off your skin I tried every solvent I owned and none of them phased it.