My new trailer frame... Comments on what I should change?

[Bad-Dawg]

OK, So it's a Shorelandr boat trailer for something very tiny. 10ft. total length. where the cross bars come together on the tongue is 4 feet from the hitch coupler. That leaves a 6 foot "bed area" from where the C channel was welded on, to the back frame cross member. I want a 10 foot trailer bed though so I need to add 3-4 feet onto the end. The Axle is centered 2' from that back end. So, is this feasible? Or, should I cut that welded on corner and move it farther up the tongue? I also plan on cutting out that crudely installed longitudinal from the center. It isn't even straight... It's rated for a 1200Lbs. Load, and it weighs 252Lbs. I don't think it weighs that much though as I picked up the backend and moved it with no difficulty.

[bobhenry]

For a 10' tear the axle should be placed approx. 4' +/- form the rear.
To make it real easy I would add 2' ( or the depth of your galley ) to the rear. Weld the frame extention under the existing side rails about 2' in under the existing rails and extending 2' beyond the rear of the trailer as it is now. This extention does 3 things It drops the galley floor about 4" meaning the cabinet will have more volumn. You will not have to move the axle to balance the trailer and your galley wall will be supported by the cross brace that is now the rear crossmember. The 4' of tongue you have from ball to front of frame is important. ( ask Ira about his crushed tongue box) for that matter I was backing Chubby down the drive last week and crunched a corner not paying attention. I would not go forward with the box more than 12 - 18"

[madjack]

...my first thoughts are...cut off the faux corner...build a composite floor outta 1x2s with 1/4" ply, top/bottom...if you can live with 9.5' of camper length, you can overhang 2' in the back and go 1.5' forward...doing this should keep you from having to relocate the axle...much more overhang in the rear may cause balance issues...more length in the front could cause clearance issues with the tow vehicle when backing/turning........

I think I would remove that added center rail and replace it with one or two crossmembers to give additional floor support and tie the side rails together(one would probably be more than enough) I think I might also come from a point a foot back from the coupler with a pair of braces, run diagonally back to the curve in the side rails.

The only other thing is since this is a boat trailer, check carefully for rust bugs and give the bearings a thourough checking/cleaning/repacking
madjack

p.s. how wide are you going...are you building out over the wheels, keep in mind your weight limitations during your planning and that include all you gear as well.........MJ

[Bad-Dawg]

I was thinking I would cut off the back enf and weld in the same 1.5 X 3" box material in and that way if I do have to shift the spring mounts back it's much easier. I really do want a full 10 feet. I need to have room to sleep 3 inside. Guess it's to the drawing board. If I were to make the bed of the trailer a full 10 feet, I could maybe build the box floor on top of that at 12 feet and maybe get the 2x2 design on top. It would only over hang a foot in front and back, I will get out the tape and pencil tonight so I can have accurate dimensions. I will probably widen the axle and add 12" wheels too as I want a wider track than I have now and those little 8 inchers are goung to look mighty funny under there...