Trailer Axles Hubs Bolt-on - good or bad idea?

[Muggnz]

I found this the other day. Whilst searching for a way of replacing the existing 5 stud hubs, for a set compatible with my 4 stud Corolla wheels. And preferably easy to change, when I change cars.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =126344731

I like the idea of bolt on/off hubs. It seems like a great idea. Because to my non-mechanic knowledge. This seems to make it easier for us non-mechanical types to replace.

One thing I ( and some friends ) aren't to keen on. Is the inner "hub"being welded on.

One minus point I can see. Is that using this system will make the wheels sit wider due to the fitment of springs against the square tube.

Is there a better or easier way of doing this?

[Podunkfla]

I found this the other day. Whilst searching for a way of replacing the existing 5 stud hubs, for a set compatible with my 4 stud Corolla wheels. And preferably easy to change, when I change cars.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =126344731

I like the idea of bolt on/off hubs. It seems like a great idea. Because to my non-mechanic knowledge. This seems to make it easier for us non-mechanical types to replace.

One thing I ( and some friends ) aren't to keen on. Is the inner "hub"being welded on.

One minus point I can see. Is that using this system will make the wheels sit wider due to the fitment of springs against the square tube.

Is there a better or easier way of doing this?

Hmmm... I can't really see the point in this setup? You say: "One thing I ( and some friends ) aren't to keen on. Is the inner "hub"being welded on." But, "hubs" are not welded on in my part of the world? The only fixed parts are the axles that the hubs rotate on. I've only run across a few vehicles, like my 4x4 Chevy S-10 that had front hub that only came as a unit... Dang expensive units at that. I was not happy spending $150. when replacing bearings would have been maybe $35. on most vehicles. I understand the theory though... It's like going to the hardware store and having to buy a whole package of "widgets" when you only need one? They make more money.

[Leon]

It does seem to be the long way around to getting an axle. If you're not mechanically inclined enough to change an axle bearing, I'd go to someone that is. This setup seems like major overkill. If all you're after is getting a bolt pattern to match your car, take the hubs to a machinist and he can redrill them easily. If done right, the old holes can be used later if you want to go back to 5 lugs.

[Dale M.]

Bolt on spindles have been around for a while... There is no reason they can not be as safe as weld on or solid bar axles... There is a advantage, you can change out spindle if you have bearing failure and seize up race and gall spindle... Also you can add a plate to "drop axle" to lower profile ... As for cost who knows.. If you have a bucket full of bolt on spindles/hubs it may be cost effective to use them...

To me its just one of many option on building axle and not to be discounted because it does not fit into ones thought processes at this particular time...

Also these are New Zealand concepts, so what may be different to us may be common for them...

After all tens of thousands of Toyota's that use these can't be wrong ...



Dale

[jeep_bluetj]

... I've only run across a few vehicles, like my 4x4 Chevy S-10 that had front hub that only came as a unit... Dang expensive units at that. I was not happy spending $150. when replacing bearings would have been maybe $35. on most vehicles. I understand the theory though... It's like going to the hardware store and having to buy a whole package of "widgets" when you only need one? They make more money.

unitized hub/bearings are quite commonplace now. All Jeeps, most GM and ford 4wd's, lots of FWD rear axles are all the unitized type.

In my case (jeep), mopar doesn't make more $$$, timken does. So, in reality jeep spent $$$ to use unitized bearings. Why do it then? Cause the average motorist doesn't pack wheel bearings (or get them done) on a regular basis. The unitized bearing will last longer than the warrenty - therefore reducing overall costs to the manuf, and less maint for the owners.

I hate the damn things though, as they cost too much, and I want oldskool locking hubs.

The jist I got from the post was that the toyota part was more reliable than a trailer spindle + bearings. Dunno if that's true, unless you don't put any grease in the bearings. I'd also bet in oz that that toyota bearing is available anywhere that sells carparts. (Likely true worldwide)

[Alphacarina]

One minus point I can see. Is that using this system will make the wheels sit wider due to the fitment of springs against the square tube.

Is there a better or easier way of doing this?

Yup - Measure the width you need and order a torsion axle that width

You get:

True independant suspension

No springs

A lower ride height

Far less unsprung weight (a really good thing)

If you specifically want to run Toyota wheels and you can't order hubs with the correct bolt pattern, then you can buy machined alumunum spacers which will give you any bolt patern you desire

Don

[Muggnz]

thanks everybody.

I like Leon's idea. It seems like the cheapest & simplest way to go. Assuming of course that bearings are still available for it. They probably are, but I've heard of similar trailers with none available.

Spacers to get the right stud fitting would I think increase the width. Albeit by a small amount. Which I'd like to avoid if possible. Currently the finished TD will end up being about 5cm wider than my car.

I'd love to be able to afford new torsion axles. But @ NZ$800 including hubs, that's out of reach for my budget. I am trying to find a suitable second hand set. I've had a "new" ( as in several years old but not used ) 1 meter wide torsion axle offered to me for $150. Supposedly capable of carrying 1,000 kilograms. I suspect that cutting it up to add an extra 1/2 meter in the middle would ruin it.

I also suspect that the seller was trying to sell reliability & ease of repair. Yet he should also know what a WOF means. ie Warrant Of Fitness. Which is required for all cars, trailers & TD's. Given the avoidance of the question, I don't feel comfortable using his product.

david

[Muggnz]

These just made a liar out of my budget. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... ermanent=0

Other than the usual minor missing details, like grease cap, nuts & wheels missing they seem purrfect.

All I need now is 4x100 hubs & brackets to attach them to the frame. As seen here http://www.trojan.co.nz/index.asp?PageID=2145849955
Will bolting the bracket nearest the hub to the axle. And then bolting that to the frame be OK? Or can I get a bracket made up & welded on, as shown in the picture?

tia
david

[angib]

Other than the usual minor missing details......

As you've already noticed, these half-axles are missing any mounting brackets. I see the seller says he has some, but I'd recommend you see them before bidding. Welding brackets on to the tube after the rubber has been inserted isn't possible, as the heat of welding will destroy the rubber.

I can see how the bolt-on bracket shown on the Trojan web site would work fine on the inboard end of the axle tube, but the outer bracket has to take all the twisting caused by the suspension and using a bolt-on bracket there seems hard to believe.

It would be worth checking with Trojan that they do produce a bolt-on bracket for this end of the half-axle, as their web site only shows welded-on brackets here - you wouldn't want to find that these axles are unusable after you had bought them.

Andrew

[Podunkfla]

Hmmm... They look much like the tortion axles available up here. As for Andrew's reservations, I think the outer bolt flange is just for fender fitment? They look complete to me. They also have a pretty cool straight axle with disc brakes... neat.

[Muggnz]

thanks.

I've asked for a picture of the brackets. So that I can check them out.

I've checked their catalogue & haven't seen any mention of brackets for this unit. Maybe it's an older model.

david

[Podunkfla]

thanks.

I've asked for a picture of the brackets. So that I can check them out.

I've checked their catalogue & haven't seen any mention of brackets for this unit. Maybe it's an older model.

david

Maybe you could weld on some brackets like they show here? Might even be able to order some from them?

[Leon]

Those axles are designed to slip into a square mount on the trailer, kinda like how a 2" hitch slips into the mating receiver. You could design up something like that, but otherwise there is no easy way to mount them. Unless you can get them real cheap, I'd stay away from them. You can't weld the mounting brackets on them because you'll destroy the rubber. They look like more trouble that they are worth. Order the parts you need and don't try to adapt something that won't fit.

[angib]

Maybe you could weld on some brackets like they show here?

That's exactly the welding that would destroy the rubber inside the axle.

Andrew

[Alphacarina]

Maybe you could weld on some brackets like they show here?

That's exactly the welding that would destroy the rubber inside the axle

Yes - Buying the complete 1 meter axle for $150, cutting it and welding in an extra half meter would be a far better idea

The rubber in the torsion axles is confined to the outboard ends . . . . when you cut it you'll see that welding in a new section wouldn't directly affect the torsion part of the axle

We can buy 1400 pound 'half axles' here for about $200 US - I wouldn't think that shipping to New Zeland would cost more than that, so for $400 or less I think you could probably order half axles brand new, if that's what you need

Don