another tongue extension question.

[jeepr]

My tongue is 3"x3"x1/4" steel. It is a good length for towing behind my Jeep. I would like it a little longer for towing behind my full-size van. What do you think about a piece of steel sliding inside of the existing tongue that could be pinned like a receiver hitch? That way it could be short for my Jeep or longer for my van? I would only want it 12 to 14 inches longer. I know some trailers have removable tongues, how do they work those?

[Alphacarina]

I've had boat trailers with adjustable tongues like that

The only down side I see would be the corrosion which is inevitable when you slide two pieces of unpainted metal inside one another. Even if you do paint them, they will very shortly be an unpainted mass of rust

Structurally, your tongue will be even stronger than it is now, as the only likely failure point (where the front cross member is welded to the tongue) would be double thickness with the new tube slid inside it . . . . but both will rust

Don

[alabubba]

Main thing would be sure to use high strength bolts.

[Podunkfla]

I'd say go for it... As for rust, It takes a long time to rust out 1/4" steel and a little grease will stop that. I don't see it as a concern.

[goldcoop]

Mike-

How 'bout something like this:

http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-h ... nsions.htm

Cheers,

Coop

[Gerdo]

IF you can find an appropiate Size/thickness tube that will slide into the existing tube... I would cut the existing tongue off at the triangular brace that you have at the front of the frame. Then use a new tube that slides inside that is as long as you want + a few feet. That way you can pin it for the jeep and pull it out for the van. Having it cut off at the front of the frame allows you to slide the tongue into the frame for storage and when you are camping. I know I have walked around the front of mine and walked into the tongue, OUCH shin height. I would use a pair of long hitch pins to set the length of the tongue. You will have some noise and slop between the two tubes. You will have this if you use hitch pins or bolts. One way to minimise the slop is to drill holes and weld nuts onto the tube on the frame. Then you can drive some bolts against the sliding tongue.

[JunkMan]

Mike-
How 'bout something like this:
http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-h ... nsions.htm
Cheers,Coop

Those extensions are very heavy, usually made of solid steel. I have one that I use with my pick-up camper.

[angib]

Your idea should work, but it will be weaker than before due to the extra length of the tongue which increases the leverage on it.

I would much prefer that you didn't follow Gerdo's advice and instead just added the tongue extension to the end of the existing tongue - any holes you use to pin the extension in place should be at the coupler end where the bending on the tongue is much less.

If you want to see what happens if you put the 'receiver' under the trailer frame, read this thread.





Andrew

[BrwBier]

Why not just use a reciver extension on the van like goldcoop linked to. That way you dont alter the trailer at all and still have it longer for the van.
Brwbier

[goldcoop]

Why not just use a reciver extension on the van like goldcoop linked to. That way you dont alter the trailer at all and still have it longer for the van.
Brwbier

THANK YOU

Cheers,

Coop

[Jim540]

Here's something to think about . I have worked on large tow trucks with extendable sliders on the sling. I am talking about the tow trucks that you can pick up a semi with. The way you make sure that the tubes don't rust is you keep them greased. I know that will make them a little messy but they can be wrapped in trash bags if you want to remove it. Also the excess can be wiped off when slid together. The picture that was shown with the broken tongue was not done correctly. To make it work you have to make sure that you have enough metal overlapping for strength. Just another thought on the subject.

Jim

[brian_bp]

Why not just use a reciver extension on the van like goldcoop linked to. That way you dont alter the trailer at all and still have it longer for the van.
Brwbier

If the intention is to extend the tongue so that the trailer can still be turned almost 90 degrees without the trailer body hitting the tug, then the wider tug means that the tongue - not the hitch's drawbar - needs to be longer.

I can't think of any benefit - but I can think of disadvantages - of extending the reciever, unless the idea is to clear bikes or something on a rack on the back of the van.

[jeepr]

Thanks for the responses, gives me a little to think about. I like Coops idea. It would be nice to have a step at the back of the van too.

[goldcoop]

If the intention is to extend the tongue so that the trailer can still be turned almost 90 degrees without the trailer body hitting the tug, then the wider tug means that the tongue - not the hitch's drawbar - needs to be longer.

Brian-

Wouldn't extending the drawbar accomplish the same thing?

Or am I missing something?:roll:

Longer tongue or longer drawbar... Either one creates more room between the trailer body & tug?

Cheers,

Coop

[Steve F]

If the intention is to extend the tongue so that the trailer can still be turned almost 90 degrees without the trailer body hitting the tug, then the wider tug means that the tongue - not the hitch's drawbar - needs to be longer.

Brian-

Wouldn't extending the drawbar accomplish the same thing?

Or am I missing something?:roll:

Longer tongue or longer drawbar... Either one creates more room between the trailer body & tug?

Cheers,

Coop

Not if the trailer is turned 90 degrees to the tow vehicle, the body can still hit as the arc the trailer travels in is still the same as it was with the shorter drawbar, make sense?

Cheers
Steve