Bent trailer tongue

[tbeau]

The trailer I got from my father has a bent tongue. It seemed to tow ok, what do you sugest that I might do about it.




Any ideas?

I'll try to take and post different angle photos tomorrow.

[Dale M.]

Personally if it were mine I would try to straighten it...

If it tows ok and you can live with it, then don't worry about it....

You may have a little odd tire wear , but the tires will probably still outlive life of trailer....

Dale

[doug hodder]

It looks like it is caused by the offset tongue wheel (away from center of tongue), had a load on and someone moved the trailer sideways causing the wheel to twist the member. If it's not real bad. I'd check tongue end to axle ends for square. If it's square, maybe stiffen up that side with a cross member tied into the other side to prevent future movement. I think any straightening I'd do cold and not put a ton of heat into it. Is it out vertically also or just a twist on it? Just an idea. Doug

[tbeau]

It looks like it is caused by the offset tongue wheel (away from center of tongue), had a load on and someone moved the trailer sideways causing the wheel to twist the member. If it's not real bad. I'd check tongue end to axle ends for square. If it's square, maybe stiffen up that side with a cross member tied into the other side to prevent future movement. I think any straightening I'd do cold and not put a ton of heat into it. Is it out vertically also or just a twist on it? Just an idea. Doug

It was caused when my father forgot it was on the back of the truck and jacknifed into it, right on the jack. I'll post other angles tomorrow when I can take some more photos.

[doug hodder]

I guess I was seeing it as a twist, either way, I think if things are still square, and no welds are broken it might just be fine. I stiffen between the jack and the center member that I have to prevent it from twisting or wanting to roll the outer member. Just what I do. Others ideas may be different. Doug

[asianflava]

I thought the piece that the jack is attached to was twisted like a Twizzler. Then I nitoced that the edges were straight. The shadows really play tricks on you.

[angib]

Just from looking at the overall shape, I don't see that it's been weakened much and so I don't see a problem in using it as it is. Given how little a ding it's received, I bet the coupler is still dead central, unless you measure with a laser.

But..... it doesn't look too good and it might be easier to fix it than to explain to everyone why it isn't a problem!

My idea to fix it would be to strap a 2x4 block maybe 12" long on the inside face of the bent member and then use a long 2x4 to press against the only strong point which is the inside of the joint where the other A-frame member meets the frame.

This explanation-in-words lark isn't going to work, is it? So here is a diggeram:



Sharpening the rear end of the long 2x4 so that it presses right into the joint between the A-frame and the main frame, and inside the flanges of the main frame, would be essential as otherwise you'll just do more damage.

Hammering in wedges like the red one might work, but I wouldn't bet on it - I think you'll need to get a jack somewhere in the long 2x4 to give you some oomph.

Andrew

[Dale M.]

Just from looking at the overall shape, I don't see that it's been weakened much and so I don't see a problem in using it as it is. Given how little a ding it's received, I bet the coupler is still dead central, unless you measure with a laser.

But..... it doesn't look too good and it might be easier to fix it than to explain to everyone why it isn't a problem!

My idea to fix it would be to strap a 2x4 block maybe 12" long on the inside face of the bent member and then use a long 2x4 to press against the only strong point which is the inside of the joint where the other A-frame member meets the frame.

This explanation-in-words lark isn't going to work, is it? So here is a diggeram:



Sharpening the rear end of the long 2x4 so that it presses right into the joint between the A-frame and the main frame, and inside the flanges of the main frame, would be essential as otherwise you'll just do more damage.

Hammering in wedges like the red one might work, but I wouldn't bet on it - I think you'll need to get a jack somewhere in the long 2x4 to give you some oomph.

Andrew

Think its going to take something more, maybe something like a 20 ton hydraulic jack....

Dale

[tbeau]

Thanks for the input. Here are some more pictures at different angles.

[Steve_Cox]

If you have access to a torch, take the tongue jack off, heat the bent part up til it's the color of wheat and with a 2 pound shop hammer whip it back into shape. That's what I'd do. Be a shame to build something nice on a visually flawed frame.

[madprinter]

I'd try a block of wood and my 2 ton bottle jack. Wedge it in like Andrew showed and take your time adjusting a little at a time. A large C clamp may help you do some fine tuning. If its still ugly when you get it straight, Just cover it latter with a piece of thin channel to cover it over.

[Gerdo]

Personaly, the tongue is the worst place to scrimp. I would cut it off and rebuild! If the tongue fails while driving, you would have a huge mess.

IF you choose to repair, I would reinforce where it was bent with angle and/or plate.

[Lou Park]

If you do use a hydrolic jack, do not stand in front or behind it. If it slips off, it can become a rocket.
Louh

[tbeau]

Personaly, the tongue is the worst place to scrimp. I would cut it off and rebuild! If the tongue fails while driving, you would have a huge mess.

IF you choose to repair, I would reinforce where it was bent with angle and/or plate.

I will not be able to rebuild at the time. I have already made plains to reinforce if I try to bend it back. My only concern is the front piece that goes across is the thiner C channel. Do you think it will that hold up in the placement shown?

[angib]

Do you think it will that hold up in the placement shown?

Yes, but only if you cut the ends of whatever prop you use so that it fits inside the two flanges of the channel and presses only on the joint between the web (upright) of the channel and the side of the tongue member. So the top and bottom need to be cut down and the two sides need to be chamfered to make it fit just right.

You really should plan to spend a couple of hours getting the fit of all the parts against the chassis perfect and strapping in place any parts that might want to spring out - this isn't a five minute job.

That bent tongue member is pretty severely kinked but it you weld a flat face plate on it after it's been straightened, it should be fine.

Andrew