Trailer build question.

[tsilver]

Ok. I'm a newbie in research mode and pondering purchase vs. build for a trailer frame. After looking over the build tutorial and other threads, could you please let me know if this makes any sense whatsoever.

I haven't shopped locally yet but found 10 ft, 2" square tube steel (14 ga) here for about $35/pc. 5 pcs - $175:

http://www.discountsteel.com/index.cfm/ ... mID/48.htm

Here is an axle kit from Northern Tool for $168:

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/ ... _200330529

Questions I have are this:

Is the steel I mentioned acceptable?
Is it better to get an axle with a drop for a better trailer height?
Is a torsion axle worth the extra money?
If so, just get the right one from Dexter, (haven't studied the start angle jazz yet) attach to welded frame?
Is a 2,000 lb capacity the right one for the job?


Basically, I want to build a Grumman 2 or Cub style, roughly 5 x 10 and would prefer at least 13" tires.
I'm trying to use the K.I.S.S. principle here if at all possible and this all may fall into the "dumb" question category! If I could make one out of wood, I'd be cruisin' javascript:emoticon(':vroom:')

Thanks,
Tom

P.S. I already own a 5x10 heavy duty Big Tex utility trailer rated around 3,000 lbs with 15" tires. Could that be ripped up to use or is that out of the question?

[Dean_A]

The steel should be fine. Many build theirs out of much lighter stuff.

Torsion vs. leaf spring axle is just a matter of preference. Torsion axles are supposed to have built-in dampening characteristics that leafs doesn't have, so the ride may be less bouncy on a torsion. Of course, you can add shock to the leaf springs to get the same effect. Can't speak to the Northern axle specifically, but it seems to get good reviews.

If you already have a 5x10 trailer, and a vehicle that can tow it, I don't see any reason that wouldn't work. I'm using a trailer with a 3000lb. axle (torsion) and 15" tires and so far so good.

[mk10108]

If you like to weld and on a budget...DIY. I did mine and had some.....issues. I used .180 inch 2 x 2 rounded corner. Next build I'll go with thinner wall and 90 degree square tubing.

http://tnttt.com/viewto ... highlight=

Most folks like the torsion, I used springs because it was local, I'm pulling with a Expedition and need frame height (21 inches).

[RichAFix]

I am currently in the process of building my own frame. I don't know how anyone can build a frame for less money than the Harbor Freight or Northern Tool Trailer kits. I didn't go that route as I wanted a better quality frame and I wanted bigger tires than those kits come with. I also have a specific design that makes the frame size very specific.
So far I have:
Steel (mostly 1x2x.188" c-channel, tongue is 2"x2"x.25", I already realize my frame will be way overbuilt) - $250.00
Tongue hitch - $10.00
Tongue jack - $20.00
Rear leveling jacks - $35.00

Still need:
Axle (going with torsion axle) - $250.00?
Wheels/Rims - $200.00?
Lights - $30.00
Welding supplies - $50.00?
Paint/Primer - $50.00?

There is no doubt that this frame will be superior to the kits, but I completely understand why people go that way. Just figuring the steel, axle, wheels, tongue and lights it is cheaper. You would still need jacks, but if you can modify a kit you will definitely save money.

I think of the frame as the foundation. You can't start with a poor foundation and not expect the walls to fall down. Because I am going this route my tear will take longer (I am saving and buying as I go), but when this is done (eventually) I have no doubt that it will be a quality trailer. I am a believer in doing the job right the first time so I don't have to do it twice.

With all that said, if you already have a trailer that you can pull and make work with your plans why not use it.

[Frog]

Rich:

I have a 6 X 10 Big Tex with a 4' wire mesh loading ramp. The darn thing's built like a tank. I think it weighs around 900 lbs. Your 5X10 without the gate would be around 650 - 750 lbs +/- which would give you an overbuilt chassis. However, it would never break with a teardrop body on top of it. It would also have a lot of ground clearance unless you put the axle over the springs. Too high and the galley may end up at an akward height.

One thing you might want to look at would be axle placement. On my BigTex it's placed fairly far forward. With the heavy galley in the rear you might not have enough tongue weight unless you put a battery and/or propane bottle or storage box upfront. Also the wheels/fenders might interfer with door opening/placement.

You'll also may have to do a lot of demolition to get to the point where you can start building.

Have you considered selling the utility trailer and starting from scratch?

Just some ideas. Good luck with your project.

[madjack]

...my thoughts...
1) keep the utility trailer and build one for the camper...you'll be happier in the long run
2) the steel mentioned, is way sufficient...keep in mind, the trailer you will build does not need to be anywhere as "stout" as the utility trailer you have
3) Northern, uses Reliable brand axles and I have heard of problems with them...if I were going to use a spring axle, I would still go with a Dexter
4) I prefer and use a 2000# torsion axle and have it de-rated to 1500#s...with 205-70-15 tires(26"s tall) and 0* start angle, I get 12" of ground clearance
madjack

[RichAFix]

4) I prefer and use a 2000# torsion axle and have it de-rated to 1500#s...with 205-70-15 tires(26"s tall) and 0* start angle, I get 12" of ground clearance

Madjack,
In one sentence you answered a months worth of questions for me. My only other question is do you have a vendor that you work with for that axle?

THANK YOU!!!!

[madjack]

RaF, you can order directly from Dexter...this thread contains all the info... http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=14125 you can contact Dexter's Customer Service/Engineering and custom spec all aspects of your axle...you can then order direct thru them (and pay shipping) or should you have local Dexter distributor(very likely) you can order thu them...

The Flexiride, available thru Southwwest Wheel is a very good axle as well and may be a better(???) unit than the Dexter...it can be similarly custom ordered and comes with adjustable(for start angle) torsion arms...last time I checked, it was priced about 100 bucks more than the Dexter.......
madjack

[Carter]

Tom

Welcome Neighbor

I built a 5x9 frame last year out of 2x3 14 gauge and it was extremely stiff but I probably over killed on the number of cross members. It wasn't inexpensive. I bought the steel at a reasonable price but still had $900 in it by the time I was finished not counting wheels and tires. The Big Tex looks similar to the welded Tractor supply trailers. If I'm looking at the right one it weighs 720 or 920#, a bit heavy. I realize after you strip the sides it will be lighter. Just be careful that it will be stiff enough after you remove the sides, they may be using them as a kind of truss.

Jim

[tsilver]

Hey,
Thanks for all the input. The rebuild of the Big Tex idea is out for so many reasons. I think it was $$$ saving lobe of my brain interfering with common sense. I'll just keep that for now.

I priced angle iron yesterday for the possibililty of a bolt together referenced in the threads. Welding not in my toolkit unfortunately.

Initial estimate for material for a 5x10 frame:

2x2x3/16 angle iron 96.66
3x2 11 gauge sq for tongue 27.89
Total $124.55

2x2 sq 11 ga for reference 135.50
(would weld)
3x2 11 gauge sq for tongue 27.89
Total $$163.39

Prices include pcs cut to length with some extra stock leftover.


I would probably take and get it welded though for extra strength. Thanks for the info on the Dexter axles also.

Have an old high school buddy who owns an RV dealership who will getting back to me on a basic frame. Checking on what Jayco could supply him and other options. Comes down to build vs. buy once again. I'll let you know what he comes up with.

Tom

[Carter]

It seems pretty cheap compared to what I spent last year. Energy prices are down so that may have something to do with it. Where did you price it?

[tsilver]

Jim.

I priced it locally at Alro Steel in Alpena, MI.

[Carter]

Thanks. Alro is probably the least expensive in this area. If anyone buys it there they have to know that they buy the whole piece even if they have it cut to length. Plan ahead on the sizes you want from a full length and tell them to "ship the drop" so you get everything you pay for. I believe standard length on most of the tube is 24' Smaller angle and bar stock sizes are 12' long

Jim