I am short of space for storage so my trailer need to cover various functions including being a base for my, demountable,micro camper ideas.
The chassis I'm using is off an old Jamex trailer tent fitted with new 750kg Avonride suspension units that are attached with 8 bolts each side
http://www.knottuk.com/uploads/pics/ind ... its_04.jpg
At 39" wide by 79" it's ideal for most of the intended usage but I want to be able to increase the width between wheels to 48" for the camper.
It's not practical to have the trailer 48" wide all the time so I'm looking into ways of increasing it when needed.
Simplest is to bolt the suspension units further outward of the mounting plates on 6, instead of 8, bolts with angle iron running from side to side and bolted to the full 16 bolts to add additonal strength / support.
Before I made a final "design" decision and start welding has anyone better idea for making it adjustable width.
Thanks.
Paul H,
Stoke-on-Trent,
UK.
Ajustable axle width ideas ?
3 posts
• Page 1 of 1
Ajustable axle width ideas ?
by CompoSimmonite » Fri Aug 07, 2009 8:17 am
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by angib » Sat Aug 08, 2009 1:10 pm
What you're suggesting sounds basically OK, with a few comments:
- I'm guessing that the bolt holes you're leaving out are the inboard ones on the suspension unit, because they don't line up with the original mounting plates? Not using the bolt holes at either end isn't nice - skipping one of the middle ones wouldn't concern me much.
- The angles will need to be pretty substantial because angle is not a very strong shape. You might want to look at unequal angle - say, 75x50 (3"x2") - so that you can get enough depth on the vertical leg, which is the one that matters.
- British angle has sloping inside faces, so the suspension units won't be properly supported and will just touch on the front and back edges. I'm undecided if I think this is really a problem in practice, but it could result in bending the bolting flanges of the suspension units.
Andrew
- I'm guessing that the bolt holes you're leaving out are the inboard ones on the suspension unit, because they don't line up with the original mounting plates? Not using the bolt holes at either end isn't nice - skipping one of the middle ones wouldn't concern me much.
- The angles will need to be pretty substantial because angle is not a very strong shape. You might want to look at unequal angle - say, 75x50 (3"x2") - so that you can get enough depth on the vertical leg, which is the one that matters.
- British angle has sloping inside faces, so the suspension units won't be properly supported and will just touch on the front and back edges. I'm undecided if I think this is really a problem in practice, but it could result in bending the bolting flanges of the suspension units.
Andrew
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