Frame for a 5X8 generic Benroy

[bart]

I am considering building a 5X8 that I would like to tow to Alaska next summer. I visited with a gentlemen about making a frame for me. He suggested a frame made from 2X3 steel channel with a 2000 lb torsion axel with 15 inch wheels. He said this is a little heavier than I need but he would rather be a little too heavy than a little too light.

If anyone has some expertise on this issue I would appreciate it.

Also, Does someone have a suggestion on the location of the axel?

Thanks, Bart

[mikeschn]

Bart,

Here's a chassis I had built a few years ago, also a 5x8





You don't need to go as heavy as your welder is suggesting...



Mike...

[bart]

Mike,

Thanks for the quick reply.

That is a nice looking trailer. I can print this out and take it to him for an example.

Is the 2000 lb axle that he is suggesting about right? I am not familiar with axle ratings at all but it seems like that should be more than enough for what I expect to build.

As this is beyond my expertise, I appreciate your time and replys.

Bart

[doug hodder]

If it were me...I think I'd talk to the guys at Dexter or any of the other torsion axle suppliers and see what they suggest. My tears have come in around 950-1200# with 15's, but I've built in 2x2 tubing. A 2K axle might be a bit much. Too much spring will result in a hard ride, and more hammering on it all. You can derate a 2K axle to suit your needs, but it's got to be done from the get go.

Check the design library in the header and look under tongue strengths. It will give you a ton of info on weight on materials and strengths. Might just give you some ideas. Just a suggestion. Doug

[madjack]

I have my 2k torsion axle derated to 1500#s...my loaded trailer weighs around 1K#s usually but can add another 200+ when I load up to the max...for a 8' long camper, I would start out setting the axle at 36"s from the rear of the body, keeping in mind, we are talking about the center of the spindle and not the axle tube itself...the frame can be somewhat flimsy(seemingly) but will stiffen up considerably when the TD is attached to it, since the TD is in reality, a torsion box and much stronger than the frame will ever be.........
madjack

[bart]

Doug and Madjack,

This is exactly the information I was hoping for. I probably did not make myself clear when I talked to the trailer builder. Madjack's observation that the trailer will not be very rigid until the body is built will be helpful.

I apologize if my questions seem obvious to those with more experience. I really have not idea what it means to have a 2000 pound axel derated to 1500, but I expect the trailer builder will know about it. I checked the Dexter website that Doug recommended and I see they have a 1400 lb axle. (For now I am making the assumption that 1400 to 1500 is the range that will work best for me and have them progress in that direction.)

Thanks for the responses. I hold your opinions in very high regard. The company I visited about building the trailer frame does a great job with utility trailers and car haulers but teardrop frames are probably a little out of field of expertise. I am confident they will do a good job for me if I can be clear about what I really need.

Thanks again,

Bart

[madjack]

...additional info...my frames are built of 1x2x3/16 "C" channel with a 2x1/4 tube tongue in a modified "Y" configuration...there are some drawings in my album...Dexter or Flexiride(possibly others) will custom build a TORSION axle for you...they cover a range such as 1100-2200#s and you can have the axle rated anywhere within that range...utility trailer manufacturers often have a hard time getting the heads around a TD frame because utility trailers often have a ton orso of stuff thrown on them and ALL there strength lays in the frame...TD's on the other hand are not as heavy and the real strength lays in the body, which if built properly constitutes a "torsion box" and is tougher than all but the "tank" built frame.......
madjack

[48Rob]

I apologize if my questions seem obvious to those with more experience. I really have not idea what it means to have a 2000 pound axel derated to 1500, but I expect the trailer builder will know about it. I checked the Dexter website that Doug recommended and I see they have a 1400 lb axle. (For now I am making the assumption that 1400 to 1500 is the range that will work best for me and have them progress in that direction.)

Bart,

No need for apologies, we all start at the bottom...and learn our way up.

The general goal is to determine how much your completed, and loaded for camping trailer will weigh.
Once thus armed, you want to choose an axle (spring or torsion) that is capable of safely carrying the weight, with a margin for error/extra left over.
About 500# over is realistic.

If your completed trailer will weigh 1000 pounds, a 1500 pound axle will be well suited to your needs.
If your trailer will weigh 1400-1500 pounds, a 2000 pound axle may be a better choice.
If you choose an axle that is rated for far more than your trailer will ever carry/weigh, the ride will be rough and bumpy, because tha axle was built/designed to carry a lot more weight.
Trailers ride the smoothest when the weight on them approaches the axle/spring (torsion or leaf) rating.

Rob

[TPMcGinty]

I used a 5x8 utility trailer from Northern Tools on my Generic Benroy. I didn't move the wheels at all. It worked just fine.

[H-Balm]

Your not the only one learning!

I am thinking about the same issues.

I want a 5x8 but am looking for the best approach. The idea of having a local shop make one is on the list. It would seem to be both stronger, and more efficient based on the trailer build to follow.

I also really like the larger wheels. The kit models seem to be much more limited in this area.
(That pic behind the VW looks sharp.)

[mcspin50]

OK, so here's my dumb question....
If I want bigger tires on, say, the 5x8 Northern Tool trailer, I can just put bigger ones than the 12" stock wheels on it, right?
Will it affect anything other than I won't be able to use the fenders that come on the trailer? Leaf springs? Position of tires on trailer?
Thanks for your patience answering this question.
Lil M.

[TPMcGinty]

OK, so here's my dumb question....
If I want bigger tires on, say, the 5x8 Northern Tool trailer, I can just put bigger ones than the 12" stock wheels on it, right?
Will it affect anything other than I won't be able to use the fenders that come on the trailer? Leaf springs? Position of tires on trailer?
Thanks for your patience answering this question.
Lil M.

Lil, I put 13 inch tires and rims on my 5x8 Northern Tool trailer frame. I did have to cut off the trailer's stock fender and replace it with a different one. You do have to be careful that you will have enough clearance between the tire and the body of the Tear (but a spacer will work if you don't have the clearance). I did not have to do anything with the leaf springs or move the axle.