Northern Tool Trailer Not Square...Suggestions

[Tommy2tone_1999]

While bolting together my Ironton trailer, I began to suspect I would have alignment issues in the end. The best indication was that the trailer tongue bolts holes didn't line up. After using a ratchet strap as a come-along, I got the bolt holes to line up. Once finished bolting it up, I placed the plywood for the floor on the trailer to double check. I lined up the edges of the plywood with the front of the trailer, and sure enough when I walked to the back, the alignment was off. Tried to play with it a bit and double checked the plywood, but it ended up being about an inch out of alignment.

To realign it I'm planning on bolting a long 2x4 diagonally across the trailer to 2 of the open bolt holes, then loosen the bolt along the runners, then use the longer ends of the 2x4 like a lever to realign the trailer. If there's a better solution, please share. I'm all about easier.

[MtnDon]

I don't think you need the 2x4. For one thing if bolted to the frame forming a triangle that will help prevent any movement. Triangles don't deform when forces are applied to them, unlike a rectangle.

If we assume all the holes were placed in the right places by the factory it should be possible to square it by loosening all the bolts slightly. Corners, crossmembers, etc. I would do that with the weight off the wheels if the axle is already in place. I used 4 jack stands near each corner of the frame. Then measure diagonally across; front right corner to left rear corner and front left to right rear. When the trailer frame is square those measurements will be identical. Nudge it slightly as necessary to make the measurements closer. Re-measure and repeat nudging as necessary. It could take a few tries. When the diagonals match begin tightening a corner. Re-check the diagonal measurements. If they remain the same tighten another corner. And so on.

Ti visualize that better cut the top and bottom off a cardboard box and squish the sides one way and another.

[KCStudly]

An inch sounds like a lot. Not familiar with that trailer, but is there any chance that you have some parts assembled wrong? I mean, if the two front rail pieces are different from the rear rail pieces and you have two fronts on one side could that throw it off. (Just spitballing, really.)

[Woodbutcher]

An inch sounds like a lot. Not familiar with that trailer, but is there any chance that you have some parts assembled wrong? I mean, if the two front rail pieces are different from the rear rail pieces and you have two fronts on one side could that throw it off. (Just spitballing, really.)

Yea I agree. If it was me, I would take the tongue off. If you can square the frame without the tongue, then the tongue is the problem. Take the front cross member with the predrilled holes in it and move it to the rear. Then attach the tongue and redrill your holes. Use clamps to be sure all lines up, before drilling. Make sure to measure that the distance from the coupler to each rear corner is the same. Drill new holes and away you go.

[jgrote]

Remember, you're working in 3 planes here. If your trailer is not level when trying to square it up, you'll find yourself chasing your tail. First step is to get it leveled up by putting it on jackstands and leveling all 4 sides. This removes the 3rd plane from the equation and makes the rest of the math much easier. Once you have that done, you can start by trying to adjust the diagonals. Measure corner to corner. Don't worry about the tongue just yet. In fact, I would leave the tongue off until the trailer is squared and tightened up. If you just cant seem to get it, you can use some math to see if it's even possible. Use the 3-4-5 rule to get one corner set to 90 degrees. Then check the other 3 corners. They should be pretty close if all opposite sides are the same length. If you need any more help with the math side of it, let me know. I realize a lot of us have forgotten about most of the geometry we learned in high school.

[Tommy2tone_1999]

It's not so much out of square I guess, as it is out of alignement. All sides have the same measurements. but the corner angles are slightly off 90deg (true rectangle vs. rhomboid parallelogram). There's enough slack in each bolt hole to provide such a problem. It's not exactly an inch, maybe 1/2 - 3/4" difference over an 8' length. I just need to loosen it up and let it sort of fall in to place so to speak, or give it a little assistance. Here is a diagram.

[mikeschn]

Can you loosen up the bolts, then drop a sheet of plywood on it equal to the size of the trailer, and use a couple clamps to pull the front and the rear square, and then tighten up the bolts.

You might need to build a couple large pipe clamps.

Mike...

P.S. You could also build up the floor, and then use that to square up the chassis.

[KCStudly]

The ratchet strap (or rope tourniquet) across the long diagonal should be able to pull that in. Just be sure not to pull it unevenly (potato chip). If that looks like it will be a problem you could try putting a strap top and bottom, pulling equally to flatten out the forces.

Probably not needed, tho. With the bolts barely snug you might even be able to just nudge the long diagonal corner with dead blow mallet and a block of wood.

[LDK]

I've been watching this thread because I've been thinking about buying this trailer. My question is, did you fix it?

[Tommy2tone_1999]

Yes I did fix it. I loosened all the bolts, then I attached a ratchet strap across it diagonally. Then I used a rubber mallet on the corners to shift it back in alignment. Thanks for all the great suggestions. This is why I love this board.

[tranterb]

I have the same issue with the diagonal lengths not matching up.

I had not thought of the ratchet straps.
Good choice, and thrifty too.

I'll give it a go.

[Esteban]

I recently bought a Northern Tool Ironton 5' x 8' trailer. I will use it for a utility trailer, not for a teardrop trailer like I first intended to do. It took me several frustrating tries to get the diagonals within 1/8" of each other. I did not have a strap to use to help me get/pull the diagonals even.

If I were to do it again I'd first assemble only the two long sides and two ends somewhat loosely (not fully tightening the bolts). I found that there is a little slop in the bolt holes when they are not fully tightened down so the frame and its corners can easily be out of square. Then measure the diagonals so that they are even (within 1/8" of each other) before fully tightening the bolts.

To put it another way:

Step 1) Loosely bolt together the two sides and two ends. If you install the inside cross pieces DO NOT fully tighten up their bolts.

Step 2) Snug up the corner bolts, but do not fully tighten them at this stage. Visually square up the corners. Then measure the diagonals.

Step 3) Adjust the frame with a come along or a block and hammer so that the diagonals are the same or very close to the same.

Step 4) Fully tighten the corner bolts once the diagonals are even.

Step 5) Measure the diagonals again. If they are still even then install the inner cross pieces, OR fully tighten their (cross pieces) bolts if you previously installed them.

You probably will need to gently beat (use a piece of 2x4 and a hammer) the corners so that they square up. Then tighten the corners down so that they are JUST A LITTLE SNUG and measure the diagonals again. If they match (within 1/8" or so) then fully tighten the bolted corners. If they do not match yet use your strap or hammer to nudge the diagonals to measure evenly and then fully tighten them up.

I found it much more helpful to concentrate my effort on getting the diagonals to measure the same than to take a square to the corners to see if they were square.

I didn't do the above. I installed the inside cross pieces and tightened their bolts down...a mistake that made it considerably harder to square up the frame.

As an alternative It probably would have been Better/OK to install the inside cross pieces with the bolts just a little loose so they did not resist squaring up the corners and getting the diagonal measurements to be the same or very close to the same.

Now that I have the trailer assembled I am very happy with it. I purchased stake pockets and D-rings from Northern Tool and am almost done installing them. My next step is to install the floor. Then off to the DMV for a license plate so I can begin using the trailer.

BTW I bought elevator bolts and other bolts, washers and nuts from boltdepot.com and they arrived within two days of my order without paying extra for expedited shipping. They are a supplier Steve Fredericks recommended. Their parts are much less expensive than buying bolts, etc. from my local orange big box or from Ace Hardware.

[MtnDon]

I found it much more helpful to concentrate my effort on getting the diagonals to measure the same than to take a square to the corners to see if they were square.

That is the best way to square up anything with a framework; a house, a shed, a trailer. Get the diagonals dead on if you can and the 4 corners will be 90 degrees. For the trailer after tightening one corner, recheck and adjust if necessary. Then 2, then 3 and 4. Check again and them start tightening everything else.

[ctstaas]

Hey Bud,
Easy peasy, loosen all the bolts so the pieces can move but not fall apart. Measure corner to corner diagonally. When these two measurements are equal the frame will be square (if the parallel sides are of equal length). Use a pipe clamp to tension the long measure until it is equal to the other. You can connect two or more pipe clamps together with couplers to get the needed length. Patients is often required in squaring stuff up. Tighten the bolts when it's square and re-check. You might have to do this multiple times to get it right, but building on a proper base is worth the extra effort.
When I built my frame it was spot on square but my plywood for the floor wasn't. It was within factory specs so I figured it was good enough and didn't check it for square. If I would have square up my ply first and made the frame a little shorter, my build would have been so much easier. Way too late for correction after the frame is completely welded. It was only a 16" out but grew into a 1/8" fix at the end and caused me to go to plan "C" immediately. Its the little things sometimes that bite so hard.
Hope this helps.
Enjoy, Chris

[Bigblock352]

I have the 5x8 and have this same issue. About 3/4 out. When you say you put a rachet strap across one of the diagonals, how exactly? Sorry if that's sounds like a dumb question.