What do I need to make use of trailer brakes?

[Krusty]

I'm getting ready to order the axle for my trailer. While the weight will be under 800lbs, I figured it would be nice to be able to add a little bit of assisted braking considering I'll be towing this behind a tiny Mazda3.

I'm picking up a Dexter #8 axle and need to figure out if I'm getting brakes and how to hook them up to my car. I have already installed the 4 connection trailer hitch lighting wiring harness for my car. Would these brakes key off of the brake lights, or do I need to purchase something else to go with it?

On a similar note, could anyone help me out with the actual ordering of the axle? I've attached the order form. Here's what I do know:

• I'm installing the axle on this trailer: http://www.harborfreight.com/1195-lb-ca ... 90154.html
• I'm keeping the 12 inch 4 lug wheels (4 on 4)
• The ground clearance of my car is only about 6 inches. The hitch is less than 12 inches off the ground (I'll measure this tonight)
• I am currently using the 4 pin wiring harness for brakes, signals, and running lights

There's lots of items on the order form which I have no idea what I should be selecting.

• What starting angle should I be using for the axle seeing as I have 12 inch wheels and a hitch height of between 6 and 12 inches? I found a link here with a description of what I should use but a lot of the links were dead.
• What brakes are the easiest to work with, keeping in mind I'm hauling a lightweight trailer behind a 4 door sedan and would just like a little bit of assitance for safety's sake?
• What should I be looking at for all the other entries, such as Hub face, Outside Bracket, Spindle type, bracket orientation, and attaching parts kit? I'm assuming I'll be using the top mount parts kit but defer to you guys to be sure.

[Redneck Teepee]

Not sure how you are using a 4 pin for your brakes Brown = taillights/markers...yellow = left turn/stop...green= right turn stop...white= ground.. if you are using the ground for your brakes, two things will happen, you are relying on the hitch or ball for a ground= bad your lights will flicker and your brakes may not work since your electrical connections needs a good solid ground to your tow vehicle. you need at least a 6 pin connector to be good in all your connections.

[GuitarPhotog]

You will need a 7-pin wiring setup to use brakes. But what looks more sketchy is your statement "6-12" hitch height." You need to level your trailer, and measure the hitch height, then adjust the rise or drop of the ball carrier at the tow vehicle so you are towing level.

How much will your trailer weigh? If it's below 1,000 lbs brakes are a waste of money, in my opinion. Above 1,500 lbs, brakes are required by law in many states.

<Chas>

[Redneck Teepee]

Missed one part of your post on hooking your brakes to your stop lights...NOoooooo when you turn your turn signal on your brakes will lock up...release....lock up etc...etc you will need a brake controller in your dash area also..Suggestion if you are not familiar with wiring hire a pro to hook your brakes up, any RV place can handle it.

[Woodbutcher]

While your at it see if you can pull a wire from the battery in the TV to the trailer so you can charge your trailer battery while driving.

[eggsalad]

I'm going to agree that you don't need brakes for a trailer this light. Depending on your state, most don't *require* brakes under 1000 or 1500 lbs. In fact, the brakes will add weight and (in my opinion) unnecessary complexity in a trailer this light.

[Krusty]

You will need a 7-pin wiring setup to use brakes. But what looks more sketchy is your statement "6-12" hitch height." You need to level your trailer, and measure the hitch height, then adjust the rise or drop of the ball carrier at the tow vehicle so you are towing level.

How much will your trailer weigh? If it's below 1,000 lbs brakes are a waste of money, in my opinion. Above 1,500 lbs, brakes are required by law in many states.

<Chas>

My car isn't rated to tow beyond 1000lbs, so it will certainly be less. I'm aiming for the whole trailer to be under 600lbs (building with foam and fiberglass).

I just figured that, since I'm replacing the axle, I might as well spend the extra bit of cash to get brakes to help out a bit.

There are 2 main reasons why I'm replacing the axle in the first place:
1. The default axle with leaf springs causes the trailer bed to rest ridiculously high. I think I'd get much more stability with a lower bed. Plus, since I'm hauling behind a Mazda3 hatchback, I should get a lot less wind resistance if I drop the height of the trailer a bit.
2. I'm currently using the trailer to haul some equipment from the hardware store and back. I tied down a 400lb cast iron bath tub and took it maybe 5 miles, not going over 40mph. I felt like trailer could have flipped over if I hit a big enough bump and it would probably take my car with it. The lower center of gravity and softer shocks should help significantly with the fear of death by flipping the hell over.

[Krusty]

I'm going to agree that you don't need brakes for a trailer this light. Depending on your state, most don't *require* brakes under 1000 or 1500 lbs. In fact, the brakes will add weight and (in my opinion) unnecessary complexity in a trailer this light.

Thank you. I'll stick with no brakes for now. That'll help keep the cost nice and low then

[Krusty]

While your at it see if you can pull a wire from the battery in the TV to the trailer so you can charge your trailer battery while driving.

Not a bad idea! I'm going to pick up a 45w solar panel from Harbor Freight. I figured that'll be plenty to keep lights, fans, and a water pump running. If I decide to haul my Traeger grill with me I may get a second solar panel and some additional battery capacity. I'm not anticipating running out of juice, but being able to charge while driving may prove rather helpful.

[bobhenry]

The reaction to the bath tub was just first tow jitters. The trailer will not flip over and will follow you without fail. I personally think that at 600 pounds its no different than having a car full of passengers. I wouldn't waste the time or the money on electric brakes. ( other opinions are sure to vary)

Chubby is 1800 pounds and unbraked and I have hauled him with my suzuki Esteem and
our Scion xb ( both "not rated to tow")

What I WOULD do is to reinforce the tongue and extend it 18 to 24 inches. If need be alter the tongue mount so the trailer tows level to slightly nose down. These two changes will do more good to relieve the white knuckles you are experiencing.

[Krusty]

The reaction to the bath tub was just first tow jitters. The trailer will not flip over and will follow you without fail. I personally think that at 600 pounds its no different than having a car full of passengers. I wouldn't waste the time or the money on electric brakes. ( other opinions are sure to vary)

Chubby is 1800 pounds and unbraked and I have hauled him with my suzuki Esteem and
our Scion xb ( both "not rated to tow")

What I WOULD do is to reinforce the tongue and extend it 18 to 24 inches. If need be alter the tongue mount so the trailer tows level to slightly nose down. These two changes will do more good to relieve the white knuckles you are experiencing.

By extending the tongue, wouldn't I risk the tongue weight being too low, causing instability? I figured my goal once built is to have the tongue weight somewhere between 50 and 100lbs.

One other question: Would I benefit from sway control? I picked up this sway control bar: http://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribu ... 83660.html

After opening the package and getting ready to install it I realized that my trailer frame is too thin on edge so I'd need to weld some bits on. I also realized that the thing said it should not be used with class 1 hitches, of which I have. I wasn't able to find anything from my googling that could further help me decide on what to do about sway control. It's normally used for heavy loads, but also for trailers with large profiles. I'm afraid the gust from a passing semi truck would send a lightweight foamie flying without proper sway control.

[bobhenry]

Tongue weight is a proportion. It is approx 15% of the trailer weight. So lets use 550# that's 82 pounds.

And by lengthening the tongue you are moving further away from the fulcrum ( the wheels ) so the tongue weight will actually go up slightly.

Your are simply overthinking this whole process.

P.S. a sway bar is used on the 3000# to 7500# big monsters and only attach to a class 3 or even 4 rated hitch. Just take it back !

[MtnDon]

If you are going to go spend the money on brakes you should read up on the brake controllers. There are basically 2 types of electric brake controllers; lots of makes and models but two types. To my mind one is more practical; more expensive too. Then there are self adjusting and manual adjusting; self adjust are nicer, more user friendly, more expensive.

Myself, I would not bother with brakes on a lightweight.

A longer tongue makes for easier reversing, IMO. Just make it strong enough. You can make / install a dropped tongue extension that will help with hitch height alignment. Level or a slight down at the front is what you want for stability, as has been mentioned. The extension tongue should extend under at least the front and the next crossmember back as well as under the front of the A-frame.

If I was building a tear drop I would build and fit it out but leave the fenders as the very last detail to complete. Then you can move the axle fore or aft if necessary to achieve the best final balance and hitch weight. Can be a chore but that can also permit the placing of things inside the trailer where you want them for convenience, not where they need to be for balance. Then install the fenders.

If going to the trouble of installing brakes I would go with the industry standard 7 wire connectors with flat pins, wired in the standard manner. Then you have all the connections you should ever need.

[citylights]

Nobody else mentioned, but I believe can also lower that trailer by mounting the axel to the top of the springs rather than the bottom. The instructions I saw for it said you had to notch a brace on each side.

Here is one

http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=15409&p=205400

[working on it]

... a sway bar is used on the 3000# to 7500# big monsters and only attach to a class 3 or even 4 rated hitch. Just take it back !

I see it a little differently; if a trailer-tow vehicle combo is more firmly connected together (to eliminate excess side-to-side movement, or up-and-down lurching), whether by a sway bar or by a weight distributing hitch, then a safer and less worrisome trip will result. Over the years I have learned to rely on both the sway bar and weight distributing hitch on all my towing combinations, whether there is no load or extreme loads. Encountering switch-back roads, taking evasive maneuvers, or repeated dips and rises (whoop-de-doos) in the road all can cause the trailer (any trailer) to suddenly become the "tail wagging the dog", at least momentarily. With experience towing, and proper load balance, most people can do without these aids for common trailer towing. But, why not take advantage of their help, and use them anyway, just in case? I adapted my wd hitch for use on my TTT (a single beam drawbar)

• 
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, though I tested it without it, and it tracks fine either way. However, when I crossed over a sudden large dip on a county backroad, I was glad I had the wd connected and tensioned, since it basically controlled/smoothed the expected excessive bounce of the little trailer to a minimum. I haven't yet adapted the swaybar to the TTT yet, but I will before I take it out on my next trip...just in case. If you decide to use the swaybar on your 1.25" Class 2 hitch, there's an adapter for it

RP26005_aa.jpg (29.79 KiB) Viewed 759 times

at E-trailer. http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Reese/RP26005.html