Anyone shorten an axle?

[starleen2]

Ok here is the problem – since moving to Massachusetts, our residence has a smaller garage. The Texas trailer simply is too wide fit in out of the weather. Bad news right??
Not really – Mrs. Starleen has given the go ahead to build another camper during the winter months.

I plan on using the same trailer frame, but modifying it to fit the garage opening (Since it has been officially registered in MASS – don’t want to go thought another registration hassle) The axle need to be shortened about one foot.



I plan on narrowing down the frame – right now the distance between the outside rails is 7 ft . As you see from the picture – the axle is about 7’5” wide. The new build will have the wheels tucked under the camper.

I’m pretty confident in my welding and cutting skills – but need some advice from those who have done it before.

[rainjer]

It can be done but I would just order a new one the length you need and put that on Crai'g's List. New straight axles are not that expensive and it is a lot less hassle.

Just my opinion,

Jeremy

[Shadow Catcher]

Yes it can be done but there is some risk if it is not done correctly, so I agree with Jeremy and beside you want it to have brakes!

[Wanna Be]

I would have to agree with the above statements.

I have done several in the past, but that was with a complete welding shop.
They can be a P.I.T.A to run straight and true when done welding.

The frame is easy compaired to the axel.

Just my $0.02 worth.

Wanna Be

[NCBooger]

Yes it can be done is the simple answer.
My question to you is this: Is it a straight axle or an arched (bent) axle? Arched axles have camber built it to help the trailer track straight when pulled. Those the average person shouldn't try to modify. It would inevitably mess the axle up into unusable. If it is a straight axle the simplest way I have done it before is this:
Measure the axle and mark center.
From center, mark outboard on both sides, half of the desired removal length plus 1/2 inch.
Cut the axle at the outboard marks.
Drill the original axle tube halves, on at least three sides, two 3/4" holes a couple of inches apart toward the cut ends. Top front and back of axle. You should now have a total of at least 6 holes on each axle half.
This is where it gets tricky.
I use a 10 foot piece of 6" "C" channel flat on the floor "C" facing up. Bare wheels (no tires) bolted to the axle hubs. Place each half of the axle with the wheels on the "C" channel with the bead area of the wheel across the "C" touching both sides. Ratchet straps go around the wheel and the "C" channel on each side and tighten up. Support the free ends of the axle halves as needed so they measure out equally to the floor from all 4 sides when rotated. The "C" channel helps keep the wheels lined up parallell to each other to help ensure a true running axle.
Use an internal sleeve on the axle tube. The sleeve length should go into the axle tube about 6" on both sides and leave the 1" gap between the original axle tube halves. And cover you holes drilled into the original axle halves.
Double check your measurements!
Double check your measurements!
Double check your supported end measurements!
Tack weld through all of your holes.
Double check your measurements.
Tack weld each of the old loose ends.
Double check your measurements.
Finish weld alternating holes and sides.
Too late now to change anything!
Finish weld the loose ends and let it cool on the "C" channel.
Remove from the "C" channel and repack bearings and replace the seals. All done.
I've done several this way. Either shortening or stretching. Only had one warp on me becaused I rushed the welds and took it off the rack too soon.

Having said all of this ( I wish I had some pictures to show you) I think it would be simpler to buy the axle you need and sell the old one.

[Dale M.]

I would do pretty much as NCBooger but use a splice tube of larger diameter that existing axle will slide inside of.... Lot easier to do final width alignment and finish welds ... IF you can get proper sized tube for sleeve it will self align if you use a long piece...

Dale

[tonyj]

If you hadn't moved from Texas, you wouldn't be having this problem. I'm just sayin' . . .

[starleen2]

If you hadn't moved from Texas, you wouldn't be having this problem. I'm just sayin' . . .

tonyj - ya' missed the part

Not really – Mrs. Starleen has given the go ahead to build another camper during the winter months.

[tonyj]

If you hadn't moved from Texas, you wouldn't be having this problem. I'm just sayin' . . .

tonyj - ya' missed the part

Not really – Mrs. Starleen has given the go ahead to build another camper during the winter months.

Oh, I didn't miss it. In fact, I was wondering why it had taken you so long to start on a new build. You haven't torn up a perfectly good trailer to build a new trailer in, what, four or five weeks? You must be slowing down in that northern clime.

Miss y'all, and I bet you are missing the heat!

[ctstaas]

Hi there, I assume your axle is square tubing. If so, easy peezy. You will want to do a full penetration weld to your shortened tube weld. Cut your tube to length, less1/4". Bevel each end 30 degrees all the way around. Fit a piece of 1/2" plate into the tube 1/8" deep leaving a 1/4" root gap between the two tubes. After fitting the tubes together and tack welding to the 1/2"plate, straight, tack weld strong-backs to two opposing sides. A strong -back is a length of steel strap with a rat hole cut in the middle. The rat hole permits welding on each side of the plate without removing it. Weld the root pass all the way around first. This is the money weld/s. Make sure each point of the tube is welded into the plate evenly on both sides in the root pass. The plate act as backup bar for the root pass weld. Fill the gap with multiple passes, alternating side to side. Do not remove the strong backs until the welds are cool.
To check for straight I would mount the tires/ wheels and measure between the front of the tires and the rear of the tires, with the axle in it's relative position. The front measure can be up to 1/8" less(tow in). I like to keep the measurement between the top and bottom of the tires equal, but if not, slightly narrow at the top is OK, but slightly narrow at the bottom is not good. To straighten i would add a dollup of heat to the proper side of the tube with my rosebud oxy/actelylene torch.When it cools, the side of tubing will shorten.
Someone else suggested putting a square tube down each side of the splice 6". The problem is there is a seam from manufacturing inside the tube that would need to be removed.Using square tubing on the inside of the splice as a backup material for a full pen weld is good. Square tuning on the outside of a tubing splice is bad. Each end of the outside tube becomes a fulcrum for each side length of tubing.
Because of the importance of the axle and hitch there is a lot of liability associated with each. If you have someone else weld it, make sure they are AWS (American Welding Society) certified and you'll be good on the welding part. The straightness part will need to be addressed no mater the welding process. Using channel iron as a straightening devise during the welding process limits access to the other welds during the welding process, but if you want to do it that way and it works for you great.