Ironton 5x8 no floor from Northern Tool

[BLTillson]

I used that trailer, because I owned it as a utility trailer first. From what I did with it as a utility trailer it will work fine as a teardrop trailer. But I wanted to add a tongue box, so I extended the tongue and added 2 angle braces to hold the box. I also added wheel spacers so I could move up to 15" tires. After all the modifications it is questionable as to whether it saves any money. But it does come with a title that can be a big advantage ,depending on your states laws.

This trailer was assembled and I picked it up at there store. They now have a bolt together trailer, and that is probably what you are considering. That will work the same way.

I am looking at using the ironton 5 x 8 for my build. I would be interested to see details on the work you did to your trailer Woodbutcher.

[TimC]

Hey BLT. Click on Woodbutchers name and then send a private message. He may miss your request since he's not the original poster. I hope you connect with him. He is a good resource.

BTW, my brother's and my son's teardrops are on NT 5x8s. The kid's is the aluminum one but same design. Link in my signature.

[QueticoBill]

If you look at my build thread, you can see how I strengthened tongue, moved axel, and changed it to underslung. I've used it for several years as a utility trailer, including moving 1000 miles.

If you need brakes, it will require changing axel, which I will do.

PS scroll to second page.

[kimberbuilds]

BTW, my brother's and my son's teardrops are on NT 5x8s. The kid's is the aluminum one but same design. Link in my signature.

Any chance you can confirm the outside dimensions of the NT trailer? I'm considering using one, but I really need to keep the trailer 6ft wide or less, otherwise, we may not be able to get it in the yard through our narrow gate!

[TimC]

BTW, my brother's and my son's teardrops are on NT 5x8s. The kid's is the aluminum one but same design. Link in my signature.

Any chance you can confirm the outside dimensions of the NT trailer? I'm considering using one, but I really need to keep the trailer 6ft wide or less, otherwise, we may not be able to get it in the yard through our narrow gate!

I just measured and it's a hair under 76" from fender to fender with the stock fenders installed. Looks like a bit wider than your needs.

[kimberbuilds]

I just measured and it's a hair under 76" from fender to fender with the stock fenders installed. Looks like a bit wider than your needs.

TYVM!!

[dmdc411]

I used this trailer for my build. In the beginning I thought it was a good idea! Now after 4 or 5 years of use, I'm rethinking that. 1. The slipper spring tabs have already wore half way through the clevis. 2. The front angle of the frame, I suspect is cracked. I can't see it as the vertical leg is covered by the structure. I did add diagonals to the tongue. They run from the front leaf spring mounts to the coupler. Suspecting cracks on the outbound sides of the diagonals. The guy that welded up the diagonals, said for less $$ than I have into this frame, he could weld me up something alot better! So, my opinion, skip the light duty Northern Tool trailers. And especially the bolt together ones all around!

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

[QueticoBill]

There are places in the world where you can scratch build a trailer frame and get it registered for cc lose to same cost and similar time. There are other places where labor is much more expensive and registering a scratch built is a pita. I lived in a place like the latter and have no regrets with the NT 5x8 with a hefty 2x2x1/4 tube tongue (1/8 or 3/16 walls would be fine, the 1/4" sort of fell into my hands from a friendly fabricator). With very few exceptions, it seems without the reinforced tongue, I have heard of very few failures. The scratch builts can easily be stronger, but I believe the NT with minor mods is strong enough. And I had it built in a few days and registered fast with no hoops to jump through.

[TimC]

The debate will never end on whether NT or Harbor Freight trailers are "worth it". I've purchased NT 5x8 trailers three times. One for my brother's TD. One aluminum 5x8 for my son's TD. And one I recently bought for a utility trailer. Happy with all of them. My first TD was a custom built by a local welding shop and cost me $1450 parts and labor. With labor and materials prices today it would be considerably more. It is heavy and is overbuilt so I expect it to last through many years. The VIN is TRA001. Yeah, the first trailer the guy built for profit. It was not a problem registering it in Wisconsin. I didn't need to register it but I didn't want any trouble on an out of state trip if I run into a traffic cop in a bad mood and get slapped with a violation. I don't think it is legal for other states to require a trailer that lives in my state to fine me, but I don't want to find out and wouldn't bother fighting it from afar anyway. So I slap the plate on when I go anywhere except WI and the UP. Hell, border control folks at the Soo didn't even question me when I traveled into Ontario. Just asked if I built it.

I've heard the statement before that so and so told someone that they could build a better trailer than the NT trailer for the same money. I believe the better than part. The same money part I call BS. I just did a quick search for trailer parts at etrailer. A basic 72" axle w/o brake bracket is $250. A set of 12" wheels/tires 5 on 4 1/2 is $220 (yeah I was shocked, look it up). Fenders are up to $50 a set for plain steel unfinished. Leaf springs are $60/set w/o brackets and fasteners. An a-frame coupler is $35. You are up to $615 and you haven't paid anyone for steel, lights, wiring or even one hour of labor.

So someone told someone they could build better for the same money. If you hear or read this statement be skeptical. Are these bolt together trailers tough enough to handle the average abuse. Well, there are an awful lot of them out there being used in many ways. If you have the skills to build your own chassis and want the best you can pay for then for sure, build custom.

BYOB

[kimberbuilds]

The debate will never end on whether NT or Harbor Freight trailers are "worth it". I've purchased NT 5x8 trailers three times.

I'm seeing this debate pop up often as I look into different build threads. Thank you for chiming in with the fact that you've used 3 of these trailers. I really like your first build and have taken some inspiration from your build journal. The opinions of people who have done multiple builds is very reassuring!

[BLTillson]

I have gathered this information from the Q & A on the store page.
This Ironton trainer is also available though Amazon. Depending on where you live, the shipping may be cheaper than purchasing form Northern Tool.

5x8 (60” x 98”)
Northern Tool and Equipment 60 x 98 trailer

Tires Dia: 21.5”

On this Ironton Heavy-Duty Trailer Kit the overall weight when fully assembled is 264lbs
The thickness of the steel is 1/8" and the frame side rails are 1 1/2" W x 3 3/16" H
The measurement from the front of the deck frame to the front of the tire is 53.15 inches.
The measurement from the back of the deck frame to the back of the tire is 42.9 inches.
The inside measurement between the tires is 61.2 inches.
The distance from the center of the ball hitch to the front trailer rail is 39.76" (39 ¾)
The distance from the back of the frame to the center of the axle is 42.9"
The maximum weight the trailer tongue itself can support is 300 pounds.
The height above the ground to the top of the 2" ball is 19.92" .
The height above the ground to the inside surface of the angle frame is 17.05" when the trailer is level.
The distance from the rear of the frame from forward to back of the fender is 28.74"
This trailer kit's axle length (inside measurement between the hubs) is 68.38"
The fenders are 3.78 inches above the frame on this trailer.

I have also made a SketchUp drawing of it. The trailer frame is accurate but the wheels need tweaking. (still learning SketchUp)