HF or NT 5 X 8 trailer entension?

[veedabowlu]

Hello Folks,

I've been lurking on here for a little while, gathering ideas, tips, etc... I'm planning to build a specific teardrop that has finished dimensions of 6' 4" X 10' 10"
Rather than building a trailer from scratch, I would like to use the HF or NT 5 X 8 trailer...most likely the NT one as the folding feature will not be used. Do anyone see a problem building 15 inches longer front AND back of the 8 ft trailer dimension. Also it would be built 8 inches wider than the 5 ft dimension on each side.

With simple math, I understand that I will be building over the wheels/wells.
I also plan to install larger wheels/tires as the 12 inch wheels are not going to cut it. I could raise the trailer axle and deck to build the camper base directly on it, BUT my tow vehicle is a 2013 VW Golf TDi, that does not exactly have "4X4" ride height.

Rather that raising the axle, I think lifting the camper base, say 8-10" above the deck would be easier.
That space created would be built into storage accessed thru the camper floor.

My tow vehicle has more than enough towing capacity of 2866 to 3527 lbs BUT, my USA class 1 hitch is rated for 2,000 lbs. gross trailer weight and 200 lbs. tongue weight...so I think I am good there.

My real concern is the question in the first paragraph... I think it would be fine, but I value your second, third, etc opinions.

Rob in Miami, Fl.

[KCStudly]

Turning clearance between TV and TD is likely to be an issue; you will most likely have to extend the tongue.

Things like, "will the jack handle still function?", especially if you are planning to have a tongue box, come to mind.

Departure angle. Will the arse end tend to drag with that much extra overhang?

I don't necessarily know the answers for your situation, but these are the types of questions you need to ask and answer for reasonable confidence.

[John61CT]

It will be easier, and get a better result, to just get the base platform you want in the first place

or even contract a fab shop to built it from scratch.

Also cheaper if you count your time.

[John61CT]

https://expeditionportal.com/forum/thre ... er.228292/

[popper]

If you build your storage base strong enough, overhang can work.

John makes a good point though. With the added cost&weight of thick lumber and your time&sweat into it, might come out better just buying the bigger base trailer. Only because you haven't bought it yet. Getting a freebie trailer and adapting to it, that is the scenario where it is easier to justify..

You are wrong about your car's towing capacity! Do not look at Euro or Straya data, their roads and towing speeds are different than here.

[veedabowlu]

Turning clearance between TV and TD is likely to be an issue; you will most likely have to extend the tongue.

Things like, "will the jack handle still function?", especially if you are planning to have a tongue box, come to mind.

Departure angle. Will the arse end tend to drag with that much extra overhang?

Good point, extend the tongue,
fold up jack (those trailers do not come with tongue jack)
tongue box not needed
Move axle X amount rearward reducing departure angle...

Please keep them coming, problem solving... this is good

At $619.99 (my NT local price) and MAYBE $100 to extend the tongue...I do not see a local fabricator beating that price.

[popper]

https://www.reddit.com/r/Volkswagen/com ... _1000_lbs/

[veedabowlu]

wrong about your car's towing capacity! Do not look at Euro or Straya data, their roads and towing speeds

Capacity is capacity.... I've driven Euro roads... Mainly Germany, not planning to do 130 KM/H anyway... "my USA class 1 hitch is rated for 2,000 lbs. gross trailer weight and 200 lbs. tongue weight"
My expected TD is to weigh 8-900 Lbs, so where is there an issue? I have towed with this TV from west Texas to Miami, Fl. pulling an enclosed U haul trailer, and the TV did not even flinch.

[John61CT]

I was not saying getting the proper platform ready-made would be cheaper

of course the opposite is true.

My point is getting a better end result and saving many many hours and dollars futzing around.

But of course do as you like.

The axle positioning should not have anything to do with departure angle, it must in the US for driving safety be placed for weight distribution, usually 60/40 not counting the A-frame

end result being so that the weight on the ball is between 8% and 13% of the total when fully loaded wet.

Europe uses completely different standards, much closer to the center, weight distribution hitches OEM, much slower speeds and thus higher weight ratings.

[QueticoBill]

how do you plan to extend width? length is easy, just longer deck, and walls will support it too. but width, especially with wheel well cutouts, is more challenging. The NT frame won't do well with moment connections, so I guess layering cross pieces on top of it is only choice.

I'm a fan of the NT frame but extending width and length will not be easy. You can see mods I made in my dormant build thread.

[popper]

Capacity is capacity.... I've driven Euro roads... Mainly Germany, not planning to do 130 KM/H anyway... "my USA class 1 hitch is rated for 2,000 lbs. gross trailer weight and 200 lbs. tongue weight"
My expected TD is to weigh 8-900 Lbs, so where is there an issue? I have towed with this TV from west Texas to Miami, Fl. pulling an enclosed U haul trailer, and the TV did not even flinch.

Hey you quoted non-US data so I responded to give you a heads up in case you didn't know. And for others out there reading the thread who may get the wrong idea. Obviously if your car is rated at 1000 then you are ok at 800 or 900. Personally I wouldn't go over 1000 just because our law system doesn't always see things in the common sense way you describe them.

[saywhatthat]

12 inch wheels are not going to cut it.

why are they going to melt .manufacture made them that way so you'd have to buy more tires (bull sh**). Having them small tires a good chance you have a very weak axle
.When you have a bolt that won't break loose you get a cheater bar with bigger tires more torque to the center. That what happens with a bigger tire. if you have an accident and it involves the axle are tire and you have put bigger tires on the insurance company is not going to cover you so. now you have a tow bill storage and estimate so maybe you should set aside $4,000 to get your trailer out .Bring cash
Was not posting about the lug nuts. The larger the outside circumference the more centrifugal forces placed on the bearing . Those going with large tires normally step up to a 3500 pound axle

[veedabowlu]

Capacity is capacity.... I've driven Euro roads... Mainly Germany, not planning to do 130 KM/H anyway... "my USA class 1 hitch is rated for 2,000 lbs. gross trailer weight and 200 lbs. tongue weight"
My expected TD is to weigh 8-900 Lbs, so where is there an issue? I have towed with this TV from west Texas to Miami, Fl. pulling an enclosed U haul trailer, and the TV did not even flinch.

Hey you quoted non-US data so I responded to give you a heads up in case you didn't know. And for others out there reading the thread who may get the wrong idea. Obviously if your car is rated at 1000 then you are ok at 800 or 900. Personally I wouldn't go over 1000 just because our law system doesn't always see things in the common sense way you describe them.

My TV is the SAME car on that side of the pond... so the capacity IS the same, IF I had the Euro hitch, "my USA class 1 hitch is rated for 2,000 lbs. gross trailer weight and 200 lbs. tongue weight" My expected TD is to weigh 8-900 Lbs, so not a problem...

[veedabowlu]

12 inch wheels are not going to cut it.

why are they going to melt .manufacture made them that way so you'd have to buy more tires (bull sh**) Having them small tires a good chance you have a very weak axle when you have a bolt that won't break loose you get a cheater bar with bigger tires more torque to the center. that what happens with a bigger tire. if you have an accident and it involves the axle are tire and you have put bigger tires on the insurance company is not going to cover you so now you have a tow bill storage and estimate so maybe you should set aside $4,000 to get your trailer out .Bring cash

That is just bout IMPOSSIBLE to read...punctuation. The NT trailer axle is rated for 1,715 lbs... the wheel bolts torque spec are 85-90 ft. lbs so torqueing them to specs, no need for cheater bar. Larger wheel/tire combo is for larger rolling diameter, (keeps tires cooler) wider tire (increases contact patch) making trailer more stable, and eliminates the 45 MPH max towing speed... all this accident/insurance talk is BULL...

[veedabowlu]

how do you plan to extend width? length is easy, just longer deck, and walls will support it too. but width, especially with wheel well cutouts, is more challenging. The NT frame won't do well with moment connections, so I guess layering cross pieces on top of it is only choice.

I'm a fan of the NT frame but extending width and length will not be easy. You can see mods I made in my dormant build thread.

2 X 6, or 2 X 8 stood up on its edge bolted to the trailer should give me more than enough clearance to build over the wheels, and 8 inches (maybe less) wider than 5 foot
frame width should also not be a problem.