2000# springs on 3500# axle

[fredo]

I've read quite a few threads on the stiffness of the 3500# setup for TD trailers and thought I read somewhere someone swapping out lighter springs but keeping the heavier axle- is this a thing you can do if you havent built the trailer yet? The axle I am thinking of getting can be ordered without springs.

[gudmund]

the 3500 lb axle usually means you get a larger axle dia. tube along with the use of larger 'meatier' spindles, thus ending-up with the use of larger diameter 'inner' bearings. The lighter rated 2000 lb axle's use the same 'small' sized bearings for inner & outer bearings. The use of a 3500 lb axle maybe considered a bit of 'overkill' - but you probably will be better off in the long run.......without adding much more weight overall.......... ("both" wheel bearing sizes are 'very' commonly stocked at just about any auto parts/RV/boat supply store anywhere = everywhere....)

[twisted lines]

I am very happy with the set up.
1250 empty.
Pulled loaded with 750 pounds of cabinets
Right at max 2000 lbs, spongy! & low.

I have 3500 lbs dump trailer, Huge difference.

[KCStudly]

The larger axle also has bigger brakes. All of these "beefy" features are great for rough service, such as off road or lots of highway miles.

Size the springs according to total weight.

In an off road application, consider using light truck springs, such as Jeep Cherokee rear springs. They are longer than typical trailer springs which will provide a smoother ride.

[working on it]

* I ordered my 3500lb axle without springs, because I was re-doing my complete suspension, and piecing together components from several sources. I got the axle from Dexter (via Nuera in Dallas), the extra steel I added from Metal Supermarkets in Plano, hardware and hangers from Nuera and TSC in Mansfield, and springs from Northern Tool in Plano and Grand Prairie? (one from each). All bought (or picked up) on my way home from work.

* I almost bought 2000 lb springs, but went big (3000lb), instead. The springs are 25.25" (eye-to-eye), which is a standard size, and dealers all over the country have different weight rating springs in stock, if ever needing to change or replace them (I already had, when I busted one on my car-hauler trailer). I was estimating that 2000 lbs might be too light, but that my trailer might benefit from heavier-duty springs, especially if I ever went off-road (which I haven't, really). But, I could always find a way to adapt.

* My original axle was undersized (max 1200 lb capacity, I guess), with short but very stiff springs, and the spring hanger on one side tore loose from the 11 gauge frame, so all was to be replaced. I added 30" of 1/4"x 2" angle iron to each side to form a better, stiffer base to mount the new spring hangers, which were spaced further apart to accomodate new 25.25" (eye-to-eye) springs, and welded/bolted it all together with all new grade eight hardware. Then, I fabricated a shock-absorbing system.

* I measured the "droop" of the new springs, about 1.5", and figured that it'd not be enough for telescopic shocks to work well, so I added Daystar 4.5" high progressive bump stops between frame and axle, instead. They're in constant contact, so they're always actively absorbing shocks. My trailer was about 1600 lbs at the time (and growing in weight, after each trip), so I wanted 20-25% extra capacity in my springs, so that's why I bought 3000 lb versions. Glad I did, since the trailer now weighs 2220+ lbs (OK, it's still 35% excess capacity); however, the progressive/adaptive bumpstops absorb everything. The 14" LT tires probably help, too.