After bolting in Timbren, Steel tubing walls bent

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Re: After bolting in Timbren, Steel tubing walls bent

Postby tony.latham » Wed Dec 14, 2022 5:31 pm

your book has been the #1 resource for information...


Thanks for the shout!

Tony
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Re: After bolting in Timbren, Steel tubing walls bent

Postby Squigie » Thu Dec 15, 2022 1:14 pm

Ah, yea, .120 wall is never going to hold up to a clamp load like that.
That is what crush tubes are for.
External reinforcement can get you there, but I prefer crush tubes. (Yet I can't find a good photo of any that I've done - not even the oil cooler mount that was most recently built).

If the bolts ever loosen up with fish plates, it can waller out that thin wall really quickly. Takes much longer with crush tubes.

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Re: After bolting in Timbren, Steel tubing walls bent

Postby gudmund » Thu Dec 15, 2022 4:11 pm

GREAT video explanation!!!!
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Re: After bolting in Timbren, Steel tubing walls bent

Postby working on it » Thu Dec 15, 2022 5:26 pm

cjb028 wrote:
tony.latham wrote:
By strap do you mean a 1/4'' steel plate (cut to size to fit on the tubing) ...


Yep! :thumbs-up:

Tony


perfect, thank you.

btw, although I'm build a square drop, your book has been the #1 resource for information and I have learned so much from it. thank you!


I did something similar when I attached a new axle, springs, and hangers to my original frame. I used a 3/16" flat strap (to spread the load to prevent crushing the 11 gauge original frame), and 1/4" thick angle iron (2" legs) to weld & bolt-on the new hangers to it. No problems many years later. Not wanting to blow-through the thin steel of the old frame with extensive welding (my first time), I simply tacked on the 3/16" strap and used PL adhesive to secure it, before bolting thru with six 3/8"-16 Grade 8 bolts to hold everything together, with 50 lbs torque, to not further crush the already damaged frame. It hasn't moved a bit in 8+ years.
flat strap + angle iron over existing 11 gauge frame.jpg
flat strap + angle iron over existing 11 gauge frame.jpg (311.05 KiB) Viewed 306 times
2013 HHRv "squareback/squaredrop", rugged, 4x8 TTT, 2225 lbs
  • *3500 lb Dexter EZ-Lube braked axle, 3000 lb.springs, active-progressive bumpstop suspension
  • *27 x 8.5-14LT AT tires (x 3) *Weight Distribution system for single-beam tongue
  • *100% LED's & GFCI outlets, 3x fans, AM/FM/CD/Aux. *A/C & heat, Optima AGM, inverter & charger(s)
  • *extended-run, on-board, 2500w generator *Coleman dual-fuel stove & lantern, Ikea grill, vintage skillet
  • *zinc/stainless front & side racks *98"L x 6" diameter rod & reel carrier tube on roof
173193172890148599
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Re: After bolting in Timbren, Steel tubing walls bent

Postby Squigie » Fri Dec 16, 2022 2:32 am

Not my video.

I finally made it back to my work bench, where I have a clamp force chart posted.

According to this chart, a 1/2-13 bolt** with a 90 ft-lb torque is going to produce up to 11,000 lb of clamp force.


**Splitting the difference between 85 ft-lb Grade 5 and 95 ft-lb Grade 8 dry torque on the chart, and assuming Timbren's called out "1/2 UNC" is the usual 13 tpi; and that you're not lubing the threads.
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Re: After bolting in Timbren, Steel tubing walls bent

Postby chopperwalker » Fri Dec 16, 2022 11:13 am

Squigie wrote:a 1/2-13 bolt** with a 90 ft-lb torque is going to produce up to 11,000 lb of clamp force


That is really impressive. It's much higher than I realized.
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Re: After bolting in Timbren, Steel tubing walls bent

Postby twisted lines » Fri Dec 16, 2022 12:14 pm

cjb028 wrote:
twisted lines wrote:First Picture shows a plate on both sides the bolt goes through.
Says one is not included :thinking:
90 lbs yes that will bend 1/8" with out spreading the load.


you are right, that is totally what I missed, dang. thanks for the help.
:thumbsup:

cjb028 wrote:
twisted lines wrote:First Picture shows a plate on both sides the bolt goes through.
Says one is not included :thinking:
90 lbs yes that will bend 1/8" with out spreading the load.


you know, thinking back and looking at the manual again, my plan was to do the 2nd option that is displayed in the picture which is to use a 2x2 as a cross-member. Its confusing because in the picture of that method, they do not use an extension plate.


I have a couple axleless stubs in boxes and I am learning as well.
Racking up; And Rapin foam
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