Grounding Continuity of Bolt-together chassis

[eLink]

I have an NT Ironton steel trailer. When I first assembled it I noticed that the stock lights were pretty dim and figured it was due to the painted bolted connections between framing members. Now that the camper is nearing completion it's time to revisit the issue.

Can someone give me recommendations for creating better continuity between all the framing members?

My first instinct is to remove the bottom bolts, and one by one, sand off the paint, re-bolt and seal with electrical paint. Or just forget about it and run a negative wire to each line, back to the tow vehicle?

Thanks

[Squigie]

Just run a ground wire for each circuit that needs it.
It is better to troubleshoot one wire than it is to work through a daisy-chain of corroding connections.

[Graniterich]

Just run a ground wire for each circuit that needs it.
It is better to troubleshoot one wire than it is to work through a daisy-chain of corroding connections.

This is the answer. Very little extra time for years of reliability

Sent from my KFTRWI using Tapatalk

[Sparksalot]

Just run a ground wire for each circuit that needs it.
It is better to troubleshoot one wire than it is to work through a daisy-chain of corroding connections.

This is how Rose is wired. No issues in 15 years.

[Pmullen503]

I have an NT Ironton steel trailer. When I first assembled it I noticed that the stock lights were pretty dim and figured it was due to the painted bolted connections between framing members. Now that the camper is nearing completion it's time to revisit the issue.

Can someone give me recommendations for creating better continuity between all the framing members?

My first instinct is to remove the bottom bolts, and one by one, sand off the paint, re-bolt and seal with electrical paint. Or just forget about it and run a negative wire to each line, back to the tow vehicle?

Thanks

I agree that a separate ground wire is better/easier to troubleshoot. I tie that wire into the frame for ground as well.

The other thing you should check is your wiring resistance. I have had the bad luck of getting Chinese made wire that corroded inside the insulation to the point the lights wouldn't work...twice.

[TimC]

Same trailer. I would buy it again.

I ran a dedicated ground wire all the way to the lights. Simple, and very easy to determine if you have a bad ground. Corrosion will eventually get to the chassis grounds unless you spend time to weatherproof the connections at each light and main lug on the tongue.

[Tom&Shelly]

Agree with the dedicated wire. If your lights don't have a ground terminal that you can get to, you can drill a hole in the aluminum frame for a small bolt (say #6-#10, not enough to endanger the frame strength or integrity), and use a crimp or solder lug, with a lock washer to dig in and make a connection. I'd do that before messing with trying to make the bolts holding the frame together a good electrical connection.

Tom

[pchast]

I ran dedicated grounds.... With the few light fixtures that
were designed to bolt to a ground I installed a wire to the
individual connection.

[eLink]

Thanks everyone! Dedicated negative wires it is!

[philpom]

Thanks everyone! Dedicated negative wires it is!

Sounds like you are set but wanted to add.... I too ran a dedicated ground wire everywhere needed so I didn't ever have to deal with it again. I built on a bolt together trailer frame.

Good luck!