Lil Diner stuff

[Steve Frederick]

Jeff, The roto-zip bits won't do more that about 1/4" at a time. I just made a few passes to get the job done. They are about 2-1/2" long.
I cut my patterns with a saber-saw, freehand, except for straight lines, where I use a fence and circular saw. Just cut a little proud of the finish line, and sand to the exact line. If you are using the router to cut sides from a pattern, make sure to fill any voids in the pattern ply. You can cut a dimple into the finished product if you hit a bump of void in the pattern...Don't ask...
Once cured, gorilla glue is easily scraped from areas where you don't want it. I use blue masking tape to keep it off finished surfaces.

[Steve Frederick]

That sure is looking sweet!

Are you going to hang the doors now too, or wait until it's installed on the trailer?

Mike...

I'll wait 'till the walls are sanded and varnished before I install the windows and hinge the doors. The finish you see in the pic, is just a rough fill coat on the 'glass. Doors and windows..just before goin' out the door!

[beverlyt]

WOW!!

[JunkMan]

[quote] You can cut a dimple into the finished product if you hit a bump of void in the pattern [/quote]

Yup, been there, done that That's why I'm thinking of using a sheet of MDF board for a pattern, hopefully there will be no voids on the edges.

I was thinking about using 1 1/2" insulation on the side walls, but the more that I think about it, the more I think that I'll just use 3/4" instead. Don't really plan to use the TD when it gets really cold, and even 3/4" is a lot more insulation then my tent has! Will probably still use 1 1/2" on the roof though.

[Steve Frederick]

Jeff,
We were out this year in mid October in the Adirondacks. We had 27 degrees over nights, and the days were pretty raw too. The weather inside the tear, with no added heat , was verrrrrryyy Cozy! We have 3/4" insulation in the walls 1-1/2" in the roof. No cold spots or condensation.
I agree with the 1-1/2" roof, for the structural benefits. The insulation is an added bonus, and adds a structural element, if glued to the roof and headliner.

[JunkMan]

Did you have 1 1/2" in the floor also? I hate to raise the floor to add insulation, but if I mount it right to the frame, I don't know how effective it would be adding insulation between the frame members.

Are you planning to do the kitchen hatch on this one the same way you did your TD (I'm reffering to the the way it sealed up by using 3 layers of wood, so there was a place for a seal)? I was looking for ideas on how to do my hatch, and like the way you did your first one, but wonder how it would work with an aluminum sided TD. Anyone else have any good pics for the rear hatch?

[Arne]

I had thought, if I built a no. 2, of going to 1-1/2" walls. What occurred to me is it would add some noticeable weight to the walls. Straight pieces (framing) on a curved wall leave a lot of unnecessary wood in the wall.

I don't know if I'll build a no.2, but am thinking about building up the side curved framing from 1/4" strips, glued to a 1-1/2" thickness (so the piece would be 1-1/2" square).

But, still thinking and mulling..... I think a slightly thicker wall would be nice for the insulation... my 3/4" walls are cold to the touch, but maybe I ask too much....

[OurStuff4You]

These are going to be GORGEOUS trailers when finished .... wow!

[Steve Frederick]

Did you have 1 1/2" in the floor also? I hate to raise the floor to add insulation, but if I mount it right to the frame, I don't know how effective it would be adding insulation between the frame members.

Hi Jeff,
I did use 1-1/2" in the floor. The design is a Kuffel Creek Comet. Kevin's plans call for 2 by's, ripped in half, for the floor frame. I filled the space with insulation as well as sheeting the road side in 1/4" ply. This removes 1-3/4" from the interior height. I probably added 50# to the deal in the process also. (From the framing??) I'm doing 3/4 for Mike's Lil'Diners. It's been noted that the mattress is a good insulator, so I probably will continue using the 3/4" insulation.

Are you planning to do the kitchen hatch on this one the same way you did your TD (I'm reffering to the the way it sealed up by using 3 layers of wood, so there was a place for a seal)? I was looking for ideas on how to do my hatch, and like the way you did your first one, but wonder how it would work with an aluminum sided TD. Anyone else have any good pics for the rear hatch?

The use of that method will depend on the roof system used. We don't have that nailed down for Mike's 'Diner. Mine will have a clear-coated birch ply roof. I will do the hatch the same way for mine because I think it's a nice way to marry the roof to the sides. With a metal, or even a epoxy-painted roof, I would go with the usual insert moulding. If I were doing a totally metal-clad Tear, I would use the moulding also.

[Guy]

Dear Steve,

Every time I see your winter photo I think of Indian Lake. My childhood friends and I from Brooklyn have camped there every summer for 30 years.


BTW I found a ureathane foam it you might want to checkout. http://www.fomofoam.com

[Steve Frederick]

Every time I see your winter photo I think of Indian Lake. My childhood friends and I from Brooklyn have campeds there every summer for 30 years.

Actually Guy, I live about 50 miles south of Indian Lake. We drove through there this summer on the way to Fish Creek Pond for a weekend with Dave and Kate, (Camp ADK)
I've never camped at the lake, although I've paddled it a lot. We prefer Lewey Lake, across the road! Much more cozy!!
P.S. I was born in Brooklyn..Folks moved upstate when I was in 2nd grade..A couple of years ago

[Steve Frederick]

We have doors! Er, Mike has one, I have two!!

I got these done over the weekend. I'm trimming them up this week, as well as insulating them. I'll start the wall insulation and wiring rough-in this weekend.

The back of my doors. You can see the reinforcement of the panel assembly.


A bench full of doors, framed, and glued up. Ply, screwed to the bench for clamps.


Close-up of the framing. I used maple on the hinge side as a hard point for screws. (Mike, this is your door!)

[Steve Frederick]

Well, I got the doors finished up this weekend, well, all but the interior ply...Mike, I need a final decision from 'Chelle for the wood choice. Or did I get it...Forgot!
I also got the window wall insulated, except for the area that will recieve blocking for fender support. I should recieve the fenders from Grant Whipp this week. I'll add blocking for t-nuts, then move on to the door side wall.
The floor is next up! I guess I'd better dig the frame out of the snow???

Window opening in a door.


I used the exterior door panel as a pattern to trim the door to size/shape.


I roughed in for lighting with 1/2" pvc water pipe.

[mikeschn]

Michelle said either birch or maple with a water based polyurethane.

Sure is looking good!

Mike...

[Steve Frederick]

I'll let you know when I'm ready to assemble all of the parts that are being built on the bench. Sounds great!!