Newbies from California

[Newtearfan]

Hello people. Im going to attempt to build a teardrop at the end of this summer and finish this winter in time for the folowing summer. I'm a bit scared about the build but i think i can pull it off. Hopefully i can get a lot of ideas and help from this site. I plan on a 5wide and at least 9ft long. I want it to be very strong since we like to get as far off the pavement as possable. I'm looking for any ideas on how to build the frame tough and what axel to use. Thanks again for the great site!

[halfdome, Danny]

Welcome to the forum. There is a wealth of resources at the top of the page including the Trailer Frame Tutorial.
This is an excellent place to learn how to make your TD. Good luck with your build. Danny

[The Teardrop Nanny]

Hi and welcome to the forum. Where in California are you?? N/S/E/W??
Check out the link below for an upcoming summer event. Perhaps if you are close enough you can do a drive thru and see some of the builds at the event. As far as your effort on the build, if you've made a decision to do a build, you have taken the first BIG step. Git-R done is a saying that people on this forum are rather fond of tossing out. Wishing you a successful summer,
Joanie
TDN

[Miriam C.]

to the playground. If you can get to a gathering you will never be the same. We have an "Off Road" forum with lots of skilled folks to help. Just remember that a bear can go through plywood and keep the same rules as with a tent. And we like to tease a bit so if you forget the rules.......... we just love the pictures.

[Mike C.]

Hi Newtearfan,


Welcome to the forum. I see you have the general size figured out, but do you know what style you are going for? For ideas, you might check out the "Hall of Fame" in the upper left of each page. Anyway, good luck with your build, and be sure and post lots of pictures of your progress.


See you around.

[Newtearfan]

I,ve decided to go with a 5wide and 10long design. the profile will be a cub (similar to the luxotear in the hall of fame) with the bottom front corner squared off. ive decided to use replacement little guy tear doors for the build. Also im going to use a 3500# axle and shock set up. I'm not sure what manufacture would be the best so im open to thoughts. Also, i was wondering what size and type of wood is best to use for the ribbing? I want to get it right the first time so im trying to ask all the questions i cant easily find info on. Ahhh and lastly is it "Safe" to keep food in the galley or is that bad for the bears too? Thanks again for the site and replies!

[Miriam C.]

I,ve decided to go with a 5wide and 10long design. the profile will be a cub (similar to the luxotear in the hall of fame) with the bottom front corner squared off. ive decided to use replacement little guy tear doors for the build. Also im going to use a 3500# axle and shock set up. I'm not sure what manufacture would be the best so im open to thoughts. Also, i was wondering what size and type of wood is best to use for the ribbing? I want to get it right the first time so im trying to ask all the questions i cant easily find info on. Ahhh and lastly is it "Safe" to keep food in the galley or is that bad for the bears too? Thanks again for the site and replies!

on the wood for the wood, the best you can afford that doesn't have a lot of knots.

Now on the bears If you wouldn't keep food in a tent you should not keep it in a td. A good bear safe or even a bucket in a tree is better. What you don't want is to be in serious bear country and keep even the tooth paste in the td.
Here are some links to bear safety
http://www.mountainnature.com/wildlife/Bears/
http://usparks.about.com/cs/natlparkbas ... artips.htm
http://usparks.about.com/cs/natlparkbas ... artips.htm

Enjoy

[bobhenry]

i was wondering what size and type of wood is best to use for the ribbing? I

2X8 2X10 AND 2X12 lumber is in most areas are Southern Yellow pine. Ask for #1 grade ( almost knot free ) The SYP is approx 50% stronger than Spruce pine fir (most 2x4 and 2x6 are SPF #2)

I ripped my spars 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 and my tear is 5'7" out to out. I spaced them at 12" on center. After you rip them down let them rest a day or so. There is always some grain release that occures in ripped lumber and they may develop a twist or a bow. I cut 4 extra and the rejects were cut into short sections and were used to frame my cabinets. I cut a rabbet into the spar and a pocket in the wall and was able to screw thru the side upward into the spar. They were also glued for extra strength.

[Newtearfan]

on the curved ribs on the hatch what are the curved parts made out of. Is it just plywood cut in an arch or is it 2 to 3 boards sectioned together and then trimed? With the cub profile we like the hatch has a significant bend in it and am wondering what would be best to use to make the big sweeping arches? We plan on using marine grade 5 by 10 plywood for the floor and side and poplar for the horizontal ribs. On the walls probly going with sandwich style 1/2 in and 1/8 burch or something nice on the inside. I just cant find a decent pic of the inside of the hatches to see if its joined wood or plywood cut into the shape. Thanks again for the info and advice. Just trying to get all my ducks in a row so the build will go smooth as possable.

[Roly Nelson]

Hello, fellow Californian. Hatch ribs can be built of whatever suits your fancy, the untimate look you are after and the amount of work you are willing to invest in attaining the above. I have done it by bandsawing the bows out of baltic birch plywood, which has no knots on the interior plys. The first one I built was 2 layers of 3/4" pine, laminated side by side, with the grain alternating to obtain strength. This required lots of bandsawing, gluing, clamping, beltsanding, routing and hand-sanding to get a finished product.

Some have even laminated thin strips, glued and clamped to the right arc, then sanding and routing edges to suit. Of course if you cover the inside of the hatchlid, it doesn't matter what the ribs look like as long as they are all the same shape and solid enough to attach the plywood to. Be aware that sometimes there might be a bit of spring-back due to the tension of the bent plywood. It might be a good idea to build the hatch prior to making the final matching curve to the galley sides so all will fit nice and snug. Just my 2 cents. Good luck on your build, takes pis and post em.

You can get a good look at the underside of my galley lid with the exposed pine ribs if you click onto this link: http://vegasteardrop.com/images/08SCTT_ ... J1_33_.JPG
Roly, So Cal Woody builder, user and abuser.........Not.

[Newtearfan]

probly just going to go for the strogest i can with the least amount of labor. Im not to concerned about the look, its durability im after. I was thinking of ordering a piece of 13 ply marine ply and doubling it up on the 2 outer edges and single for the inner ribs... by using marine ply it will be knotless and righly resistant to heal and water, so i could use a large amount of hot water to help bend the outer skin to it. I'm confused about the building the hatch first part tho. I think you are saying build the hatch first and then the wall inside that it rests on? Or do you mean build the hatch befor i cut the outside walls? I was thinking cut the profile on the outside 1/2 in ply, then build the inner frame and main galley wall, then the hatch and then install the inner wall where the hatch rests? is that the corect way to do it. Also, What about splicing 2 boards together and keeping the bottom edge squared off? As you can tell im still pretty confused on the hatch. Originally i wanted to just make it flat but i think i would be disapointed by the way it looks. Thanks again Hatch Info Needed

[bobhenry]

You might do well to check into engineered lumber rim board. A giant piece of strand veneered lumber 11 7/8 wide or 14" wide . If your curve is not to severe and can be cut from a 14" wide board. They are 1 1/8 - 1 1/4 thick. You have to have a little patients cutting it but when done it will NOT twist, bow, or do any other strange feats that sawn lumber will.