? about my first build on a Carry-On 5x8

[tvlawyer]

Hello all!

This is my first post. I'm getting ready to start an 8' Cubby on a Carry-On 5x8, which I purchased from Northern Tool a few years ago. The trailer has two issues and I'd appreciate advice from the experts.

First, this was a floorless trailer to which I had heavy-duty mesh flooring welded on. The edge of the mesh sits on the L-shaped side rail, about 1" from the edge, creating a vertical gap of about 1/16". Will this gap create a problem when I lay the teardrop's floor frame? I was thinking that if I don't fill the gap with something, the area would be subject to corrosion and possibly mold. Removing the screen will be a major PITA as it is welded in about 30 places.

The front rail of the trailer is bent down slightly over each side of the tongue. I would guess the bend is about 1/4 inch on each side, and results from my standing on the corner of the trailer while I secured the front wheel of my motorcycle into a chock. I was thinking that I could fix the problem by prying the rail straight and welding a straight bar across the front. Do you think this is a reasonable fix?

Another possible solution: buy the Harbor Freight 4x8, swap the axle from the Carry-On, and sell the Carry-On.

The Cubby plans will have to be adapted for a 5x8 trailer. Is that difficult for a first time teardrop builder? I'm a medium-level craftsman.

[tvlawyer]

It appears that cutting out the mesh may be the best idea.

I found some ideas for straightening the front end of the frame. However, that still poses the question of whether I need to weld a straight reinforcement to the front edge.

I still haven't found an answer to my question of whether modifying the 4x8 to a 5x8 trailer is doable for someone with modest building skills.

Thanks,

Larry in Marietta, GA

[aggie79]

I wouldn't work about taking out the expanded metal. In fact, with the angle iron perimeter, the open metal may help any moisture water or moisture that may get there to drain or dry out. Just be sure that you do one of the floor water-proofing methods to the bottom of your floor as described on this forum.

As far as the bends in the front, I would either not worry about them, or try to cold bend them in place. The teardrop box or shell is very strong. If you build your teardrop box off of the trailer, and then bolt it to the trailer, it will be stronger off to pull the deflection back as you snug the bolts.

I had my trailer welded. Where the tongue attached to the frame, there was about a 1/4" camber it the frame. Using a hydraulic jack, and bracing against the framing of my garage door, I was able to "persuade" about half of the deflection. Then, when I bolted my teardrop to the frame, it took care of the rest of the camber.

BTW - If you have medium-level skills, you are more gifted than most of us.

Take care and post pictures,

Tom