Noob Question from San Antonio

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Noob Question from San Antonio

Postby digitaldgs » Wed May 07, 2014 11:04 pm

I want to thank everyone in this community here for what has been for me an incredible database of knowledge... I'm new to teardrops, but after years of reading, I've started my build... I have been on it for months now and have frame, walls, interior, Galley, Insulation, and wiring, but I seem to be stuck on Skinning. I want a very solid skin, and was planning on using West boat epoxy with paint and varnish laid over plywood to create a waterproof exterior. Tonight however I stand at a crossroad... I put a test sheet on the tightest curves of my build, and it seems to be cracking and spliting pretty easy. I know the epoxy is very forgiving, but I'm now wondering if it would be better to using some sort of sheet metal for the roofing instead of plywood and epoxy. Any input from you veterans would be greatly appreciated.... oh and if you suggest sheet metal, can anyone give me some insight on a thickness and maybe a good supplier in San Antonio. Again Thank you all for what has been amazing insight...
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Re: Noob Question from San Antonio

Postby citylights » Thu May 08, 2014 7:36 am

digitaldgs wrote:... I put a test sheet on the tightest curves of my build, and it seems to be cracking and spliting pretty easy.


I assume you are talking about a plywood skin. What kind off plywood? That is it's thickness? Plywood bending is a skill... It takes some effort and knowledge. It helps if you have the right kind of high grade plywood. With the right kind of high grade green plywood, you just bend it slow over a couple of days. I used cheap stuff from lowes. I cracked and broke a couple pieces that I had to replace, but if you wet it, bend it slow... and generally fight it, you can make that work too. Some people use hot steam too, but I didn't.

Take a look, towels are kept damp, ratchet straps to bend, bend over a couple days. Bend to fast... It breaks! Start over. Train the wood first. Then take it apart, glue and screw and re clamp.

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Regarding a metal skin, you still need to get the plywood skin on before you apply the metal. Some use 22 gauge galvanized steel and paint it. I used 0.03 thick aluminum sheeting. From what I have read 0.05 is considered the thickest you would want to use.

It is available from a variety of online stores. I just called my local steel supply shop... And they had 5x10 sheets of 0.03 aluminum in stock! Just come and pick it up.

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Re: Noob Question from San Antonio

Postby bobhenry » Thu May 08, 2014 8:15 am

digitaldgs wrote: I put a test sheet on the tightest curves of my build, and it seems to be cracking and spliting pretty easy. I know the epoxy is very forgiving, but I'm now wondering if it would be better to using some sort of sheet metal for the roofing instead of plywood and epoxy. ...



An inexpensive childs wading pool and some black plastic on a hot sunny day is a great way to talk plywood into a bending mood. For thicked plys it may be necessary to form them out of thinner sheets and glue together.

Curves don't come much tighter than this......Image

When I made Sadie's teardrop dog house I soaked and steamed the 1/4 luan in the covered pool for several hours on a hot summer day and applied it wet and clamped it in place with a ratchet strap. It dried fine and accepted finish well after thoroughly drying in place for several days.
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Re: Noob Question from San Antonio

Postby Esteban » Tue May 13, 2014 2:28 am

Using fiberglass cloth and epoxy will help stop plywood from checking.
Steve - SLO, CA
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