Planning a cargo trailer conversion build

Converting Cargo Trailers into TTTs

Planning a cargo trailer conversion build

Postby Six Feet Under » Wed Jun 10, 2015 11:06 pm

I recently got the idea to convert a cargo trailer to a dive trailer/camper for when I go on multiple-day diving trips, or just feel like going camping in the summer time when it's 90 degrees. The way my work schedule is set up, I pull 12 hour shifts and only work 14 days a month, so I have plenty of off time to plan and build the trailer, and then go use it once it's completed. Every time I make a post on any other forum, I get referred back to you guys for my research and more information, so I figured I'd make an account and a thread on here as well.

I've been looking at several different manufacturers, and I'd like to go with either a Pace, Haulmark, or Wells Cargo trailer. I don't want to start a project of this magnitude using a shoddy trailer, but at the same time, I don't really have $5000-6000 to spend on the "base" of the project in one blow. Better to buy once and cry once, but if anyone has a quality trailer suggestion other than those three in the Southeast US, I'd definitely appreciate it. I'm located in Central Florida, but I wouldn't mind traveling to a bordering state to pick up a trailer if I needed to.

Below is what I've got so far:

Trailer Requirements

Width: At least 6 feet, preferably 7 feet in width due to unknown arrangement of “camper” area, size of sleeping area, and placement of bed (parallel with the length of the trailer or perpendicular to length of trailer). A trailer width of 7 feet would allow for up to a double bed to be placed perpendicular to the length of trailer to save space length-wise.

Length: Minimum of 10 feet of length, preferably 12 feet plus the additional length of the V-nose space. This would keep the overall length of the trailer including the nose and tongue to approximately 16 feet or less, encouraging easier maneuverability in parking and camping areas that have limited space to turn and back up.

Height: Minimum height of 6 feet, preferably 6ft 3in. Max of 6ft 6in interior height, anything else would be a waste of money as I’m 5’ 10” tall.

Doors: Side door, RV-style 32”, preferably with a flush locking handle AND a cam-bar lock for the times I'm away from the trailer or it's being stored in my driveway (have nowhere else to keep it).

Color: Pewter/silver or white to keep trailer cool in direct sunlight. No other colors really appeal to me, as I like to keep things as neutral as possible. ATP on the front of the V-nose and no graphics other than the company logo elsewhere on the trailer itself.

Factory Options: Minimum of two 15x30 screened sliding windows in living space, although larger size/more windows would be nice. A window in the door itself would be great as I prefer natural sunlight over artificial lighting. I would like the camper to be wired for shore power with 110/120v and 12v connections inside. V-nose is preferred for decreased wind resistance and extra space to allow for post-factory modifications I have in mind (see below). A pair of stabilizer jacks for the rear of the trailer would benefit me during construction, as well as while camping. Sidewall air vents to allow airflow while traveling would be beneficial in the air-drying of wet dive gear.

I’m not sure whether barn doors or a ramp door would be best in the back. If I could waterproof the back door, the ramp would provide me a clean area I could change in and out of my exposure suits without getting myself covered in dirt. The barn door option would be nice if I built a wall into the back of the trailer and mounted a window A/C unit in it, running the exhaust through the back door (see pics below).

Lighting: Preferably LED lighting so power use is minimized, bulbs don't have to be changed as often, and less heat is created. I was thinking of using under-the-counter style lighting, whether that be rope lights or an actual fixture, as I've seen both at Lowes.

Interior Appliances: The only "appliance" I see myself NEEDING is an air conditioner, preferably 8,000-10,000 BTU. I've heard of guys using a 5,000 BTU unit and having plenty of cool air, but they also lived in areas where 85 degrees was considered hot... here it will likely be closer to 100, with a "feels like" temp between 100-110 with the humidity. Not sure if I will frame up the inside for a window unit or secure a stand-alone one somehow. I think with all sides of the trailer insulated, that size A/C unit should have no problem keeping the trailer cool. I might add a compact refrigerator as well. All cooking will be done outdoors on a propane stove or the campfire. An RV water pump will also be added to provide water for the sink.

Planned Use: The trailer will be used for camping, most of the time while on scuba diving trips. I mostly dive freshwater springs/caves in state parks, but will eventually travel down to South Florida and the Florida Keys to dive as well in saltwater. The main hindrance on these trips is the weather, I’m limited to mostly winter diving (for multiple-day trips, anyways) because I refuse to tent camp when it’s pushing 100 degrees outside during the day. Having an enclosed camper with air conditioning would allow me to sleep comfortably and escape the weather no matter the time of year, making my trips more enjoyable and less work. Loading scuba gear in the trailer and hooking it to my truck will take much less preparation time than going through camping gear totes and loading them as well as the dive gear, setting up the campsite, etc. It will also allow for more secure storage of personal items like my cell phone, wallet, and firearm (full-time LEO, I never go anywhere unarmed) while I’m not in the camper because I can either mount a small safe out of sight underneath the bed frame. As far as the rear doors go, barn doors would make the camper modifications themselves much easier, but a ramp would be easier to walk up and down after gearing up or down (wearing double steel tanks puts me at about 100 pounds of gear and a 5mm neoprene wetsuit… I don’t want to create any undue difficulty for myself by having to step up or down into the trailer, or creating some type of free-standing step that could flip over when I put my weight on it because I’m rather unbalanced when wearing everything. I guess the door dilemma will come down to how often I think I will park right next to where I’ll be getting into the water, and how often I’ll be at a campsite a little farther away from the water’s edge and really have no need to gear up in the back of the trailer.

Post-Factory Modifications: I originally planned on having a small “wet area” in the rear of the trailer for the upright storage of scuba tanks (four on each wall at a minimum), bungee-corded to the walls via the valves. I’d also like a hanging bar running across the back of the trailer for hanging exposure suits (wet/dry), undergarments, and my wings from so they can air dry. I’d also install a shower floor that simply drains out of the bottom of the trailer to drain the excess water that drips off of the suits. I planned on building a small bench with scalloped out places for the tanks (see pics below) to sit in while I gear up, and to make it easier to don/doff the gear. There would also be a small wire shelf/basket mounted to the sidewalls on either side, above the tanks, that would act as storage for my masks, lights, wet-notes, etc. so they could air dry as well (I’d likely use ClosetMaid shelving for this purpose rather than plywood to facilitate air circulation and save some weight).

Forward of the gear storage space, I would build a wooden frame that would hold a full-size mattress. I could either make a twin-size frame with a folding top section that would open into the full bed area, or just make it a permanent full-size bed frame. Basic cabinet doors could be made or bought and attached to the front of the bed frame, and the underside used for storage of Sterilite/Rubbermaid containers. Maybe put some type of slide-out tray inside to make access easier.

In the V-nose, I’d like a triangular countertop with space for the compact refrigerator and possibly a grey water tank underneath in the event I’m camped somewhere that running it straight out of the sink onto the ground is frowned upon. The sink would only be used for washing a few dishes (I try to use paper everything and burn it all as I go to reduce trash and end-of-trip cleanup), washing hands, or brushing teeth. All showering and restroom use will take place via a solar shower mounted outside of the trailer, or a portable toilet. Most places I camp have pretty decent facilities that I’d use rather than wasting the space and weight allowance in such a small trailer for a self-contained shower and toilet.

The entire trailer will have to be insulated for the temperature extremes we experience here. I’ll likely insulate the floor and coat it with some type of bedliner spray or undercoating to prevent water intrusion while driving, as it obviously rains a lot here too.

Current Tow Vehicle: 2003 Ford F-150 w/ a 4.2L V6. I plan on buying another truck that is better suited to towing in a year, perhaps two. I have an agency take-home vehicle so I don't really drive my personal vehicle a lot unless I go somewhere out of town. I live less than a mile and a half from the grocery store, about five miles from Walmart or Lowes... if I didn't make too many unnecessary trips, I could probably make a tank of gas last a full month. I'd prefer to keep the trailer weight as low as possible for my estimated needs, and while a tandem axle would be nice, if I can manage with a single, I'd prefer that (I think).

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All pictures belong to other folks and are representative of the ideas I'd like to incorporate into my own project.

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The plan I've drawn up in MS Paint, so far. Unsure what to put on the right side of the trailer to balance it out though. Perhaps some storage or a small folding table that goes back up against the wall?

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The bench and shower pan that gave me the idea for my own personal setup. My bench would be fixed, not on caster wheels, and I'd prefer the shower pan to be more rectangular than square.

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The V-nose countertop idea I'd like to use.

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The likely solution if I go with a window unit. This idea won't work with the scuba gear storage compartment idea I had, but it would be much easier to deal with in the camper portion of the trailer. Note his solution for the drain tube for the A/C unit.

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Re: Planning a cargo trailer conversion build

Postby hankaye » Thu Jun 11, 2015 9:04 am

Six Feet Under, Howdy;

Welcome to the forum!
Decisions, decisions, decisions ... Have you considered Trailers Plus?
http://www.trailersplus.com/
They have several different 'Grades' of trailers. I chose a Pro model
6X14 with 5600# single axle with brakes, the extra cam latch over the RV
type front door. Mine has the barn doors on the back. Sorta-kinda in your
price range.
Good luck with your search and project.

hank
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Every day I beat my own previous record for number of consecutive days I've stayed alive.
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Re: Planning a cargo trailer conversion build

Postby NO David! » Thu Jun 11, 2015 12:19 pm

Welcome,

Your plans sound a little familiar, although we're not diving, (yet), the need for transformable space is similar. This place is full of conversions that are similar to your needs. Look for member Nitroxjunkie71, a diver who has a decent build on a budget. I'm sure there are others.

Here's another couple of my favorite builds: Gonefishin and WA, this one is a really neat build for a smaller tow vehicle:
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?t=33924
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=40504&p=741734#p741734

As far as what I call a modular setup, using the budget window A/C, take a look at our build. The A/C installation is seasonal, and when in use, leaves one of the two barn doors available for loading unloading.

Our build here:
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=48345

Some A/C discussions here:
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=49438
http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=50223

Here's a dealer for the Cargo Craft brand we bought. Sarasota, FL (no knowledge about this dealer, only the brand)
http://www.trailerdepotofsarasota.com/

I've sort of come to the conclusion that several of the old reliable and quality name brands are now just that...names. Bought out by other larger investment groups, etc. I was able to custom order mine the way I wanted without too much extra cost. I had a few issues I wasn't too excited about, but the factory sent a crew and took care of it. They are still a privately held company, so I think that helped.

Edit to add: the offset windows high on the wall, one to the front, one to the rear of the trailer, combined with the Fantastic vent fan is...Awesome. This idea came to us from Gonefishin. We can load wet kayaks and gear, crack the two windows, head down the road, and everything is mostly dry after an hour.

When warm outside, the windows create a breeze throughout the trailer, with the vent fan on low.

Good Luck.
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Re: Planning a cargo trailer conversion build

Postby Six Feet Under » Thu Jun 11, 2015 4:10 pm

As much as I love the idea of framing out a bulkhead and putting the A/C unit right over my bed while venting the exhaust out of the rear of the trailer (I'm a warm sleeper and prefer the room to be as cold as possible), I just can't see any way of doing the scuba compartment behind that (or having a place to hang my exposure suits) unless I built a horizontal tank storage area underneath the rear portion of the bed, close it off from the remainder of the compartment, and leave the A/C bulkhead forward enough to hang gear in the back (at least on one side) and close the door. I'll try to draw something up in MS Paint or on graph paper to better demonstrate what I mean.

If that idea wouldn't work, I could move the windows forward a little bit and have the AC on a slide-out tray above the bed with a factory added compartment door on the driver's side of the trailer. Although I'd try to seal the gaps better, something like this:

Image

In the interest of weight balance, I wonder how difficult it would be to plumb in a sub-floor grey water tank on the passenger side, within the frame (since I'll have the floor taken off anyways to insulate and coat the underside of the trailer). Wouldn't need to hold more than 15-20 gallons max, and even that would really be just so it was wide enough to sit in the 24" section between cross-beams without me having to fabricate some type of steel bracket. I'd prefer it to drain on the driver's side (just by running a pipe across the frame at a slight angle) but I don't know if that's practical or not.

For the interior living space, I thought about possibly using the peel-and-stick vinyl tile flooring. It would likely be easy to clean and I could install it myself for fairly cheap after I completed the interior construction.
Last edited by Six Feet Under on Thu Jun 11, 2015 4:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Planning a cargo trailer conversion build

Postby msnglinc » Thu Jun 11, 2015 4:34 pm

This is Cargo Craft's wholesaler in Georgia http://www.mycargotrailer.com/index.php ask for Brandon. He is who I have been dealing with on my recent order. It has been a rather unexpectedly easy affair. I have not picked up my trailer yet so I can't really speak for the quality but did my research and think I will be getting a great trailer. I had mine built on all 16 inch centers and was surprised how inexpensive the options were once I started adding them up.
7 x 26 Cargo Craft V Nose
viewtopic.php?f=42&t=63350
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Re: Planning a cargo trailer conversion build

Postby Six Feet Under » Thu Jun 11, 2015 6:07 pm

Brand choice is up in the air for me as I'm paying off about $800 in CC debt before I start getting ready to buy the trailer itself. I plan on putting approximately 1/3 of the trailer price down as a deposit and the rest will be financed through my local credit union. All modifications done by me will be paid for with cash as time allows (and as I pay the trailer itself off) until I get to the completed project. I'm also going to ask my State Farm agent about insurance for the trailer as well.

I listed off Wells Cargo and Haulmark as the ideal brands, but like everyone else in the world, I'm on a budget and I want to buy a good trailer from a reputable company. It seems like every time I look up a trailer company, I find construction complaints on forums or bad reviews on the Better Business Bureau's website. I don't want to buy a budget trailer and then spend the price difference on modifying and upgrading the factory's shoddy craftsmanship to get it where I need it to be. I have heard fairly good things about Cargo Mate, hopefully that trend keeps up.
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Re: Planning a cargo trailer conversion build

Postby khigh » Fri Jun 12, 2015 7:24 pm

Hi there - sounds like you're planning a trailer similar to mine, even down to the color and types of windows.

I got mine from Lark out of Douglas, GA - probably not much worse of a drive from Centtral Florida than North GA. I've enjoyed it and had no regrets.

I speced the whole thing from doors, windows, axle height, ceiling height, outlet placement - you name it, through trailershowroom.com - had a great experience - I'd do it all over again.

Also chek out my AC solution. You say you don't think 5K is big enough - remember, a 5K unit is designed for something at least three times the size of your trailer, so if you're insulated, it shouldn't be an issue. My 5K unit draws only just a little over 400 Watts.

Good luck! Keep us apprised.
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Re: Planning a cargo trailer conversion build

Postby Six Feet Under » Tue Jun 30, 2015 1:23 am

UPDATE: I'm going to the local Diamond Cargo dealer tomorrow to check out their 7 foot wide trailers, specifically the 12, 14, and 16 foot lengths. I want to walk around in them to get a visual idea of how much room there is in each size. I bought sidewalk chalk to draw the design out to scale on my driveway and see how much floor space will be left with the layout I want. I now know my truck will tow the 16 footer weight-wise, plus I'll be buying a new vehicle hopefully within six months now instead of a year or two (decided just to suck it up and buy something bigger soon) so that will be even less of a concern. I also got ahold of my insurance agent (I have State Farm, in case anyone was curious about doing it themselves) and she said she can add the trailer to my current plan quite cheaply. The coverage won't include the contents, but apart from the appliances, the main issue will be replacing the trailer itself (and I can probably add in the value of the insulation and electrical wiring providing I keep the receipts... just a guess) unless it just burns to the ground somehow. I'm printing out my shopping cart from Diamond Cargo's website to show them the options I want and see if there is a price difference between online and them.
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Re: Planning a cargo trailer conversion build

Postby Rod S » Thu Sep 17, 2015 1:24 pm

I would go with the barn doors. I have had two trailers one with ramp and the other with barn doors. For me I would never consider a ramp door again. My trailers were for camping and hunting. The barn doors are so much more convenient.
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