Removing Ramp Door

[VegasBell]

This might seem a little daffy, but I’m considering removing the ramp door of my 6X12 conversion and rebuilding the opening as a regular wall. I thought I would really like using the ramp as an outside deck. But on the dozen trips that I have taken, I’ve only used that feature twice. Seems like most of the time it’s either too cold or windy to open, or I just didn’t feel like lowering it and setting up the adjustable jacks that I made. I’m thinking of adding a window on the back, and some other things that will be more useful to me.

The hinges will have to be cut off with a torch or a grinder, so once I’ve committed to removing it, there will be no going back. I figured that if I ever sell the trailer, the new owner is not likely to gut the interior build and use it as a regular cargo trailer, anyway.

I could add the window and stuff to the ramp, but then it would be even less useful as a deck. So, considering the extra weight I would loose (it’s really heavy), it seems reasonable to me to just remove it.

Opinions? Anyone done the same?

BTW, if you want see my build on this forum, check out viewtopic.php?f=42&t=73043

Happy Travels,

Fred

[Staryder61]

This might seem a little daffy, but I’m considering removing the ramp door of my 6X12 conversion and rebuilding the opening as a regular wall. I thought I would really like using the ramp as an outside deck. But on the dozen trips that I have taken, I’ve only used that feature twice. Seems like most of the time it’s either too cold or windy to open, or I just didn’t feel like lowering it and setting up the adjustable jacks that I made. I’m thinking of adding a window on the back, and some other things that will be more useful to me.
Happy Travels,

Fred

Fred, what about checking around and find an RV door, either new or salvaged, and install it in the ramp, Instead off removing the ramp completely.
The reason I mentioned salvaged. Where I live in Texas, we see different RV travel trailers.. or motor homes that have been wrecked or people have just junked out. Finding the right one, could save you some and not be as much work to replace the whole ramp and build the wall.
The right salvaged trailer could have you finding the door and window, for a reasonable price..

[VegasBell]

David,

Thanks for the response. I could find a door, but I already have a side door, so don't really need a second one.

There's a used RV parts place in Phoenix that I have visited. Might look there for a window.

But my goal is to make the trailer as useful as I can and reduce the weight as much as I can. The ramp has a lot of angle iron and tube steel, and it's covered with 3/4" plywood, so it's pretty heavy.

Fred

[Staryder61]

That would remove a bit of the weight then.. a sheet of 3/4 ply weighs in right close to 60 lbs.. on it's own.
No door, window would be nice back there. Extra ventilation..

[Grummy]

The last thing I would use is a heavy sheet of anything... Always figure out the lightest weight option that does not compromise strength.
Also, remember to calculate your weight changes as accurately as possible because changes you make back there will affect your tongue weight. Might cause you to need to make some other adjustments to re-balance things.

[JasenC]

Sounds like a solid plan if you're not using it, the window would be nice.

[Ottsville]

I'd remove the plywood decking and cut out as much of the heavy steel framing as I could with an angle grinder, then put a window in and repanel the inside.

Are you in Las Vegas?

[VegasBell]

Ottsville,

Thanks. That's a good idea, makes less work for myself. Most of the weight is probably in the 3/4" plywood anyway.

Yep, I'm in 'Vegas. (Henderson, actually, if you know the area.)

[jwh92020]

I did what you are thinking of, but instead of removing the ramp, I latched it closed, removed the spring & pulleys, drilled thru the ramp "studs" and door frame (an idea I got from this group). I then ran a bead of sealant across the top of the door and down each side. I removed the bar latches, filled the bolt holes with sealant and reinstalled the bolts. I used some small pieces of diamond plate to cover the latch holes in the door. I ran 3/4" fur strips down the ramp studs, framed an opening in he "wall" for a 5k window ac and added extra steel tubing to the center stud to allow for a spare tire carrier, then filled it with 1 3/4" foam board insulation (1" & 3/4" sheets). It worked great, and in the unlikely event that someone would ever want to turn it back into a ramp, it could be done.

[Staryder61]

I did what you are thinking of, but instead of removing the ramp, I latched it closed, removed the spring & pulleys, drilled thru the ramp "studs" and door frame (an idea I got from this group). I then ran a bead of sealant across the top of the door and down each side. I removed the bar latches, filled the bolt holes with sealant and reinstalled the bolts. I used some small pieces of diamond plate to cover the latch holes in the door. I ran 3/4" fur strips down the ramp studs, framed an opening in he "wall" for a 5k window ac and added extra steel tubing to the center stud to allow for a spare tire carrier, then filled it with 1 3/4" foam board insulation (1" & 3/4" sheets). It worked great, and in the unlikely event that someone would ever want to turn it back into a ramp, it could be done.

jwh, damn, now I like that look..
even I have wondered since we started the conversion. If I should close up the 2 back barn doors?
Then I think. what if I need a sheet of plywood sometime later? Or need to haul something else, that would slide right in the back of the trailer? But, still a thought I guess. Have a truck to haul things.

[VegasBell]

JWH,

Nice work. Thanks for sharing the pics.

Makes a lot of sense to leave most of the ramp door and just cut out what you don't need.

Fred

[Ottsville]

Ottsville,

Thanks. That's a good idea, makes less work for myself. Most of the weight is probably in the 3/4" plywood anyway.

Yep, I'm in 'Vegas. (Henderson, actually, if you know the area.)

I'm out near the Red Rock casino for the next several weeks. Would love to take a look at your trailer sometime while I'm here.

[Wrecit]

If you think you may be daffy then you will think I am totally insane. Mine is a 6x12 that I removed everything on the rear from corner support to corner support. I welded a 2x3 inch box tube at 38 inch down and just finished fabricating a door that will fold down (hinge mounted on the 2x3) that will create a shelf that I will be able to slide a full size mattress half way out of the trailer.

A local tent and tarp company will be making a cover which will attach to the door so when open it will look somewhat like one side of a pop up trailer.

I plan on doing a big update to my build thread this weekend but you can see some of what I have done on my thread linked in my signature below.

[JasenC]

If you think you may be daffy then you will think I am totally insane. Mine is a 6x12 that I removed everything on the rear from corner support to corner support. I welded a 2x3 inch box tube at 38 inch down and just finished fabricating a door that will fold down (hinge mounted on the 2x3) that will create a shelf that I will be able to slide a full size mattress half way out of the trailer.

A local tent and tarp company will be making a cover which will attach to the door so when open it will look somewhat like one side of a pop up trailer.

I plan on doing a big update to my build thread this weekend but you can see some of what I have done on my thread linked in my signature below.

That sounds interesting.

[Modstock]

I'd go with jwh's idea. Keep the door itself, remove the spring and such.

Removing the whole door may weaken the frame and cause water leaks.

Or just sell it and build a new trailer.
Might not sell down the road with the rear ramp missing.

Myself, I like having 2 exits just incase I need to shoot a bear or fire .

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