NVCowboy wrote:
...I live in southern NV, which I consider the northern end of temperate America.
I’m nearing the end of my 6x12 conversion with only an overhead cabinet and ramp door spring valence left to go.
My insulation is as follows:
1” foam in the walls covered by 1/4 birch.
1” foam / foil bubble wrap ceiling - also birch.
2” foam in the ramp door
I went crazy with the caulking gun, and had a three inch triangle of dust intrusion at the man door over 16 miles of dirt road.
Uninsulated man door and floor.
Climate control:
Boxed in and properly vented window mount a/c unit - smallest that lowes sells. Member FLBoy set me up with the design based on his big conversion using rv refrigerator vents to isolate the intake and exhaust.
Chinese Diesel Heater - I know, but it’s a dry heat.
My experience:
30 degrees overnight, and I woke up on top of my sleeping bag (on low).
88 Degrees @ 6500 feet during middle of the day - full sun, and I took a nap.
105 Degrees @ 2,000 feet, and it’s cool inside.
Apples wrote:NVCowboy wrote:
...I live in southern NV, which I consider the northern end of temperate America.
I’m nearing the end of my 6x12 conversion with only an overhead cabinet and ramp door spring valence left to go.
My insulation is as follows:
1” foam in the walls covered by 1/4 birch.
1” foam / foil bubble wrap ceiling - also birch.
2” foam in the ramp door
I went crazy with the caulking gun, and had a three inch triangle of dust intrusion at the man door over 16 miles of dirt road.
Uninsulated man door and floor.
Thanks, Bill, for your detailed reply. After you caulked everything you could, was it then that you still saw dust intrusion? How about a filtered fan into the trailer cabin with no known exit? Do you think that would keep some of the dust out?Climate control:
Boxed in and properly vented window mount a/c unit - smallest that lowes sells. Member FLBoy set me up with the design based on his big conversion using rv refrigerator vents to isolate the intake and exhaust.
Chinese Diesel Heater - I know, but it’s a dry heat.
My experience:
30 degrees overnight, and I woke up on top of my sleeping bag (on low).
88 Degrees @ 6500 feet during middle of the day - full sun, and I took a nap.
105 Degrees @ 2,000 feet, and it’s cool inside.
What watt rating is your heater? 4K? 2K?
I'm converting a 5' X 10' cargo rig to a "1.5-person" camper for hangin' out in the desert when ambient temps are below 80*F and above 20*F... have ready to install a 2K watt diesel heater.
1" beadboard insulation in the walls, 2 layers foil bubble-pack in the ceiling (it's an arched ceiling side-to-side) and for the curved front. I too am using 1/4" birch for all the walls... I'm not going to insulate the floor. It's 3/4" fir plywood tossed down by the trailer maker (bunch of hacks! but, hey, it's a volume deal). Would like to do a little linoleum at the rear (galley) and for the forward bunk hallway.
Thanks in advance for your reply to my diesel heater question.
flboy wrote:tony.latham wrote:My thought/question/concern is does ramping up to say an R15 really do anything greater than say an R5 on the walls when 15 to 20% of your wall space is hovering around an R1 at best?
I firmly believe that 3/4" of foam in a sandwich wall is fine.
Tony
Agree.... I think the R5 in the walls does the trick. I did 2 layers of polyiso (~ R10) in the ceiling and a solid 2inces of Styrofoam under the floor however. Floor was for the cold weather camping I may do from time to time. My poor dog lays on the floor.
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