Newbie, need door and insulation advice, among other things

Converting Cargo Trailers into TTTs

Newbie, need door and insulation advice, among other things

Postby VanillaGorilla » Mon Apr 19, 2010 10:46 pm

Hey all. Just picked up a 6x12 I'm going to be converting for hauling my racebikes to the track, and then sleeping in it at night. I have already gotten several good ideas from this forum, but I am stuck on a few things before I get started.

Is there a tutorial or a quick walk through anywhere on the RV screen door installation?

This one I'm a little embarrassed to admit: when installing the foil backed insulation on the walls and ceiling, does the foil go to the outside or inside?

I plan to fab up and install some fold down bedding platforms. What's the mattress of choice? The dog will pop an air mattress, and it seems like some use futon mattress, but I need to have something I can store against a wall, since the bikes will take up floor area when transporting.

I've been searching for the answers, but there's so much info here it's been hard to find a specific answer!

Thanks in advance, great forum!
VanillaGorilla
Teardrop Inspector
 
Posts: 5
Joined: Mon Apr 19, 2010 10:39 pm

Postby RonS » Tue Apr 20, 2010 6:35 am

Can't help ya with the door.

For the insulation, most just use the styrofoam board type. Fiberglass settles/breaks in mobile applications and can end up nesting sites for mice, etc if they find a way in. That said, on any "faced" insulation I've seen, the face (either paper or foil) is a vapor barrier and is to be installed with it toward the "living space".

For the beds, I'd think a foam mattress cut to size would work. Many seem to like memory foam.
Why do we drive on a parkway and park on a driveway?
User avatar
RonS
Teardrop Master
 
Posts: 106
Images: 0
Joined: Tue Feb 02, 2010 8:28 pm
Location: central PA

Postby VanillaGorilla » Tue Apr 20, 2010 11:53 am

Well, it's gutted. :)

Few questions have come up: there are 3/4" 12x12" plywood squares in the 3 stud cavities by the wheels. They are not fastnened in any way, just placed in there. What's the deal with that? Do I need to keep those in there for any reason?

What kind of caulk do you guys prefer for sealing fasteners that penetrate the skin? I have to replace a few of them (broken marker lights) and I want to use the right stuff.

What kind of adhesive or caulk is best for securing the insulation to the ceiling while you're trying to get the ceiling luan/ply installed?

Is it necessary to leave a 1/8" or so expansion gap when sheets of wall OSB meet each other? When I was a carpenter we did this on the roof sheating, but not on the walls. Do the walls of these things get hot enough that some rate of expansion needs to be accounted for?
VanillaGorilla
Teardrop Inspector
 
Posts: 5
Joined: Mon Apr 19, 2010 10:39 pm
Top

Postby Nathan N » Wed Apr 21, 2010 5:54 am

VanillaGorilla wrote:Well, it's gutted. :)

Few questions have come up: there are 3/4" 12x12" plywood squares in the 3 stud cavities by the wheels. They are not fastnened in any way, just placed in there. What's the deal with that? Do I need to keep those in there for any reason?

What kind of caulk do you guys prefer for sealing fasteners that penetrate the skin? I have to replace a few of them (broken marker lights) and I want to use the right stuff.

What kind of adhesive or caulk is best for securing the insulation to the ceiling while you're trying to get the ceiling luan/ply installed?

Is it necessary to leave a 1/8" or so expansion gap when sheets of wall OSB meet each other? When I was a carpenter we did this on the roof sheating, but not on the walls. Do the walls of these things get hot enough that some rate of expansion needs to be accounted for?


On my cargo trailer those chunks of plywood were spacers/fillers between the outside skin and inside plywood so the fender mounting bolts wouldn't crush them together. Although my trailer's fender mounting bolts came all the way through to the inside. You might investigate the fender mounting bolts to see what you have.

I used clear silicone caulk. On the windows I used putty tape and then silicone caulk.

There is special adhesive in caulk tubes for the insulation boards. I purchased PL300 Foamboard adhesive. "Won't burn through foam".

Not sure on the expansion gap. On my wells cargo the factory plywood had plastic trim between the edges but it did not provide any gap. I did not leave any gaps on my paneling.
User avatar
Nathan N
Lifetime member
 
Posts: 587
Images: 153
Joined: Mon Mar 24, 2008 6:55 pm
Location: mid-Missouri
Top

Postby 8ball_99 » Wed Apr 21, 2010 10:23 am

What nathan said :thumbsup:
Thats the type of glue you need for foam.. Although I didn't use any I just stuck a few pieces of tape to hold the pieces in place.
My Screws on the skin of my trailer have no silicone or rubber washers.. They don't seem to leak and I'm not sure why. All the door hardware and trim has white silicone around it.. When I installed my windows, water heater and hookups I just used some GE2 white window and door silicone. Same type of silicone I use for most things.. Seems to work well
Your fenders probably screw into the wood. That would be my guess
My plywood had gaps.. But I think it was just due to poor workmanship not really for expansion.. I left the gaps and just filled them with spray foam. When I installed paneling I didn't leave any space between the panels
8ball_99
500 Club
 
Posts: 623
Joined: Sun Mar 07, 2010 12:34 am
Top

Postby pete42 » Thu Apr 22, 2010 7:11 pm

If your trailer has a small door all that is needed is a RV type handle and lock.
some have also installed a screweye to padlock the overcenter handle to when they are inside so noone can lock them in.
User avatar
pete42
Super Lifetime Member
 
Posts: 2203
Images: 13
Joined: Sat Nov 07, 2009 11:52 am
Location: SouthWest Ohio
Top


Return to Cargo Trailer Conversions

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 11 guests